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revalving shocks

 
Old 02-17-2011, 10:24 AM
  #16  
himself
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FWIW, I went for 700#/900#. First event is this weekend. Will post thoughts when I get back.
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:32 AM
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Another thing to consider is whether or not to make the springs progressive, that is, using a "tender" spring, or to make them single rate, or using a "helper" spring. A progressive rate will make street driving much more civil, but will require a little more time for the car to take a "set" in a turn on the track. I switched from tender springs with rates of around #250 to helpers, with essentially #0. My car is mostly a track car, and I noticed the difference immediately, and greatly prefer it. I have 800/1000 mains. Their are posts in the archives in the Racing Forum for anyone who is interested in this, and possibly here as well.
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:51 PM
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This is wild... I can't imagine why anyone would spend the money on Motons or JRZ if the revalve is so cheap. $400 vs $5000 and all you get are some adjustment ***** that all but the racing engineers will know how to adjust....
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:25 PM
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The adjustment is key. You have understeer, one click and it's gone for example
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:35 PM
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It would be best to drive both before you decide which is for you. I've had Motons on my last 2 cars, and love them. For me, the adjustments made a huge difference. No doubt, there is also a huge difference in cost as well. As I said above, tenders vs. helpers also make a huge difference. Nittos vs. slicks (or even R6s)...the list goes on.
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:04 PM
  #21  
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After driving the last event I can say that the car is much faster with the revalved shocks, but would be even faster with multi-way adjustables. There are some spots on the track that having fast bump/rebound would be VERY helpful (i.e., curbing and rumble strips). But for the most part, car balance is much improved all the way around, which is a big plus.

-td
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by atr911 View Post
This is wild... I can't imagine why anyone would spend the money on Motons or JRZ if the revalve is so cheap. $400 vs $5000 and all you get are some adjustment ***** that all but the racing engineers will know how to adjust....
It's like the power seat option. Set it once and you're done.
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:15 PM
  #23  
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Has anybody revalved at Bilstein in Europe (which country) and what were the cost then approximately ?
Does a car need to be re-aligned after the shocks are revalved or replaced ?
What type of Bilsteins were originally installed on a 2004 GT3 ? PSS9 ?
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Old 03-04-2011, 04:17 AM
  #24  
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I can't see how you can pull the suspension apart, change the springs and shocks and NOT align.. Not the place to cut corners anyway. last summer I had to replace a worn rear link and had the car aligned without giving it a second thought.

Odds are, your alignment is knocked off before anyway.. Its easier than most realize (the degree maybe doesn't matter quite as much on the street, but absolutely does on the track). I align a couple of times a track season - especially because I do drive on the street.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by himself View Post
After driving the last event I can say that the car is much faster with the revalved shocks, but would be even faster with multi-way adjustables. There are some spots on the track that having fast bump/rebound would be VERY helpful (i.e., curbing and rumble strips). But for the most part, car balance is much improved all the way around, which is a big plus.

-td
What are your impressions of 700/900 on the street compared to stock?

Cheers
Roland
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Old 03-06-2011, 12:18 PM
  #26  
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Yes, much less expensive to revalve vs. Motons. However, you need to consider alignment, removing/installation, possibly new springs so the real price is $2,000- $3,000 and the results are very good.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Roland 93 View Post
What are your impressions of 700/900 on the street compared to stock?
Almost no difference on the street. Some rapid changes in pavement have a little more umph, but I drove it 5 hours to the track and 5 back and didn't even notice the change.

Originally Posted by rodneyr View Post
Yes, much less expensive to revalve vs. Motons. However, you need to consider alignment, removing/installation, possibly new springs so the real price is $2,000- $3,000 and the results are very good.
I just did the whole thing. Final cost for springs, shocks revalved, rear monoball mounts, rear toe arms with locking plate was right at $2000. Install, alignment and corner balance was $1350. Total was $3350 installed and out the door.

However, when comparing to other upgrades, I only consider the first $2000 as any suspension change would incur the same (or a bit more) cost for install, alignment and corner balance. So around $2000 [all in] vs $5000 [just shocks!] for motons.

-td

-td
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Old 04-08-2011, 04:58 PM
  #28  
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For OEM springs what's the general re-valving specs? Apparently my fronts are blown so I"m just going to send all 4 in this week. Do I need to get new springs? Even worth it?
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:36 PM
  #29  
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Default OEM Rates

You need to check with a well informed tech to be sure but I "think"stock is 250/450.If you track the car suggest you look thru this thread and see what folks have done I am at 800/1000 right now and I like a firm ride on the street and use the car mostly on the track but those rates aren't troublesome to me on the street.
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:56 PM
  #30  
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What kind of springs do you guys suggest f I do the revalve and add some fun?
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