30K miles service coming up
#1
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I'm having my indy mechanic perform the 30K service on my '04 GT3 next month. In addition to the scheduled service, I'm also having them replace the front wheel bearings which are making noise. After a recent long road trip, I also noticed a very small oil leak from what appears to be the front main seal, so I'll have that looked after. No other leaks thankfully. I've listed below a few items that come to mind (the mechanic has the full list). Is there anything else any of you recommend replacing/servicing at this time? Brake fluid was recently replaced.
30K mile service:
-Cabin Filter
-Air Filter
-Spark Plugs
-Oil Service
-Full under-car inspection + check fluids, coolant hoses, pad wear, belt, etc.
-Will have alignment performed by GMG after wheel bearing replacements
Thanks,
Daniel
30K mile service:
-Cabin Filter
-Air Filter
-Spark Plugs
-Oil Service
-Full under-car inspection + check fluids, coolant hoses, pad wear, belt, etc.
-Will have alignment performed by GMG after wheel bearing replacements
Thanks,
Daniel
#2
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Replace gear oil if that hasn't been done and have them check LSD. Coolant flush would be nice but pita to do( more of a length of time thing ie 5-6 hrs). Mike
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#4
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Coolant system is pressurized. Drain fluid then add fluid. This is the long part- drive for 30 minutes(tab down) then let stand for 30 minutes(with tab open- the thingie on top of expansion tank to release pressure). Check coolant level add fluid close tab then drive another 30 minutes then let it sit for 30 minutes with tab open. Usually takes 4-5 times of this cycle to rid of bubbles and right coolant level. Mike
#6
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^i imagine u could but car needs to be in operating temperature. If u vacuum filled if cold coolant maybe too much coolant and when u run it- mite blow your expansion tank or hose. 4-5 cycles ensures no airbubbles. Airbubbles in a pressurized system will cause it to burp and something will blow ie a hose somewhere. Mike
#7
Race Director
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Well, sort of. Porsche techs use special equipment that contains reservior of fresh coolant and a special cap with two lines: One runs to a vacuum pump (maybe driven by shop air) and the other line runs into the reservior which is open to atmospheric pressure.
Once the cooling system is back together (and "dry") the tech pulls a vacuum in the cooling system. I've been told enough vacuum that the large coolant hoses collapse.
The vacuum pump is switched off, the vacuum line closed and the line to the coolant opened. The air pressure outside the cooling system and the very low pressure inside the cooling system see this fluid transferred into the coolling system with no air pockets.
The tech stops the flow when the level in the coolant tank reaches some suitable level, something between min and max.
The cap is fitted, the engine is started and the system is checked for leaks and the engine allowed to idle until the coolant starts to flow. The tech probably checks for signs of hot coolant flowing forward to the radiators to know the t-stat is opened.
Then the level in the coolant tank is checked and if there was an air pocket -- if done right there won't be but it pays to double-check -- the tech adds some coolant to bring the level up to near the max line and that's it.
I've had the coolant replaced in several of my Porsches by this method at various dealer service departments and I wouldn't have it done any other way.
BTW, you can buy something similar to what the techs use. Not as fancy but perfectly suitable for the DIY'er. Snap On sells these gizmos and there other sources of them as well.
If one's going to replace the coolant in his Porsche I'd highly recommend he spring for one of these gizmos. With different caps it can do a variety of cars too.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Once the cooling system is back together (and "dry") the tech pulls a vacuum in the cooling system. I've been told enough vacuum that the large coolant hoses collapse.
The vacuum pump is switched off, the vacuum line closed and the line to the coolant opened. The air pressure outside the cooling system and the very low pressure inside the cooling system see this fluid transferred into the coolling system with no air pockets.
The tech stops the flow when the level in the coolant tank reaches some suitable level, something between min and max.
The cap is fitted, the engine is started and the system is checked for leaks and the engine allowed to idle until the coolant starts to flow. The tech probably checks for signs of hot coolant flowing forward to the radiators to know the t-stat is opened.
Then the level in the coolant tank is checked and if there was an air pocket -- if done right there won't be but it pays to double-check -- the tech adds some coolant to bring the level up to near the max line and that's it.
I've had the coolant replaced in several of my Porsches by this method at various dealer service departments and I wouldn't have it done any other way.
BTW, you can buy something similar to what the techs use. Not as fancy but perfectly suitable for the DIY'er. Snap On sells these gizmos and there other sources of them as well.
If one's going to replace the coolant in his Porsche I'd highly recommend he spring for one of these gizmos. With different caps it can do a variety of cars too.
Sincerely,
Macster.