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rotate or shim for camber?

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Old 06-03-2010, 08:07 PM
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spare tire
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Default rotate or shim for camber?

Rotate shock mounts or shim or pull out the saws-all and slot the shock towers to get more neg. camber. I am pushing the car hard and having trouble running with the big dogs. I asked for a ride with a good friend (996 GT3) and dicovered much more grip in his car than mine. I've run mostly cups and I have been through a few sets of Hoosiers also but they don't last as long as MPSC.
Now I am running slicks but getting to much wear on the outside edges. My tires asked me for some more neg. camber. What is the best way to make my tires happy? It 's been three years since my last alignment. I have the max. now with stock set up. 1.5 front 2 rear
Old 06-03-2010, 08:40 PM
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911SLOW
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3 years on a track car with slicks its like 50000 miles without fresh oil.
even if you have rear toe locking plates still i doubt that any of your numbers will be ok.
For camber front rotate struts and shim the arms
John
Old 06-03-2010, 08:45 PM
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996FLT6
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I rotated my struts to get 3.2 front and 3 rear/ 0 toe front /slight toe in rear /castor 8. Bar 1 from stiff rear /one from soft front. Very neutral with slight touch of oversteer. Mike
Old 06-03-2010, 08:47 PM
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LVDell
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The optimal way is to do both. Rotating the strut top gets you a floor of about -1.8 then start shims to get your desired spot.

And WTF do you mean 3 years since last alignment??? This is something that should be done (at least checked at a min) after every event!
Old 06-03-2010, 11:53 PM
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spare tire
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The car was withheld from me in a 5 year divorce. If I wanted it, she had multiple motions to sell it out from under me. Three years because the dishonorable Judge said park it in Jan. of 07. I just got it back unencombered at the end of last season. September 09. Now I have to play catch up. All you guys have three more years experience on me. I am still in court but I own my car again. I only track, the car no longer see the street. 14k miles 11,000 on the track.

996FLT6 Thanks for the numbers. I comprende!! what tires?

everybody post their hot set-ups please
Old 06-04-2010, 01:33 AM
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I ran mpsc's now kuhmo v710's. Kuhmo is a great tire- way grippier then ne mpsc/nitto or toyos. I do flip the kuhmos and done 16 hc's one side and the other 18 hc's for a total of 34 hc's and i drive to the track. 40 hc's(20 per side) is possible if u trailer. Mooty says slightly less grippy then r6's(not much) and he bought my new set of kuhmos to try them out and he likes them. Cheaper then hoosiers and lasts longer- good for me. The sizes are 305/30 and 245/40 from tirerack for 1300 shipped. Tire pressures should never go above 36 as they will slide. I keep mine at 31 hot all around but 34 rear/31 front seems to work for others. Mike
Old 06-04-2010, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 996FLT6
I ran mpsc's now kuhmo v710's. Kuhmo is a great tire- way grippier then ne mpsc/nitto or toyos. I do flip the kuhmos and done 16 hc's one side and the other 18 hc's for a total of 34 hc's and i drive to the track. 40 hc's(20 per side) is possible if u trailer. Mooty says slightly less grippy then r6's(not much) and he bought my new set of kuhmos to try them out and he likes them. Cheaper then hoosiers and lasts longer- good for me. The sizes are 305/30 and 245/40 from tirerack for 1300 shipped. Tire pressures should never go above 36 as they will slide. I keep mine at 31 hot all around but 34 rear/31 front seems to work for others. Mike
You drive to and from the track on the Kumho's???? How far each way. I would count that as 1 HC each as well.
Old 06-04-2010, 02:37 AM
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Sp and th are the ones I go to mainly. Sp 30 miles each way from san francisco/ 120 miles to th each way. Last time was at ls- 87 miles each way. Mooty and I have similar laptimes and he's fast and consistent im inconsistent. I did sp/th/ls on one side 18 hc's(flip side) other 16 hc's is sp/th. At the 18th hc kuhmos at ls started to slide. I figure driving to/fro track u lose 2 hc's per side(just cruising- nothing brisk). Of coarse ne chance of rain forget using them as well as hoo hoos and rcomps . So conceiveably if u trailer- 20 hc's per side . what surprises me at 34 hc's no cording whatsoever. Mike
Old 06-04-2010, 08:26 AM
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LVDell
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Originally Posted by spare tire
The car was withheld from me in a 5 year divorce. If I wanted it, she had multiple motions to sell it out from under me. Three years because the dishonorable Judge said park it in Jan. of 07. I just got it back unencombered at the end of last season. September 09. Now I have to play catch up. All you guys have three more years experience on me. I am still in court but I own my car again. I only track, the car no longer see the street. 14k miles 11,000 on the track.

996FLT6 Thanks for the numbers. I comprende!! what tires?

everybody post their hot set-ups please
Dishonorable is right! These cars do not want to be parked. They want to be driven. Nothing worse than a long drawn out divorce.

Time to catch up
Old 06-04-2010, 09:09 AM
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Dell nailed it. Rotate the strut and in the minimum position you get about Neg 1.8 to 2.0 (it varies from car to car). Then use shims to get neg 2.5.

If you simply rotate the struts and slide the shock mounts for more negative camber you end up with too little caster. This results in the tires rubbing on the fender liner at full lock and unpleasant handling.

If you use only shims to get Neg 2.5 then you have too much caster and the tires rub on the other end.

For Michelin Cups or Hoosier R6 tires I found neg 2.5-2.7 in front and neg 2.4 in the rear was optimal. Pure race slicks need even more negative camber.

Regards,
Old 06-04-2010, 09:11 AM
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I'd agree with Bob's assessment of the tire requirements. I found the sweet spot for the R6 on my car at -2.8 and on slicks at -3.9
Old 06-04-2010, 01:17 PM
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Thanks, Its funny that over 100 drivers looked at this thread but only three listed their tire and camber info. I was hoping to skip a lot of adjusting by listening to the cognocenti.

Last edited by spare tire; 06-04-2010 at 03:49 PM.
Old 06-04-2010, 07:04 PM
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I concur with the comments. I have rotated the struts alone and done shims alone with the exact results already mentioned. I got lazy though (5+ alignments, 1 hour each way=4 hours of driving per alignment) so right now, just have the shims in, get some mild rubbing depending on the tire, running -2.4F, -2.3 rear. Fairly good, balanced setup for Toyos, Nittos, and Hoosiers for auto-x but not enough camber probably for track Hoosiers or slicks. I use the swaybars to make minor balance adjustments as the car is VERY sensitive to these.
Old 06-04-2010, 07:24 PM
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my shop recommended shims only, no rotating. so i'm running all shims to get -3.2 front. the car handles awesome on the track. tires 245/40 up front nt01's... rubbing slightly on the fender liner but not bad. rubbing on the fender lip however so had to roll up the fender lip a little, now its good. very close to stock ride height but i believe they lowered it slightly.

so the rubbing isnt bad at all with -3.2 front camber and shims only (no rotating).

greg fordahl who's a very respected engineer around here did the work. he knows his stuff.
Old 06-04-2010, 07:53 PM
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here is my setup which I really like.

toyos 888 255/35/18 & 315/30/18
bbs wheels factory offsets and 5mm spacers front 3mm spacers rear.
no rubbing

F:
102mm height
3 camber (rotated struts and 7mm shimms)
2 total toe

R:
117mm height
2 camber ( toe locking plates)
30 total toe

tried cups never again for street, ps2 great for rain, corsas too expensive but nice
toyos are kind of ok but make a lot of noise and don't last long; they are cheap. : )

John


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