WTB one stock rear wheel
05-04-2010, 01:49 AM
#16
Victor,
If the powdercoat was in the clamped portion of the connetion -- such as under the lugnuts or on the face that bears on the hub, then it could have "oozed" over time and caused the torque to be lost. Don't ask me how I know...
Rob
If the powdercoat was in the clamped portion of the connetion -- such as under the lugnuts or on the face that bears on the hub, then it could have "oozed" over time and caused the torque to be lost. Don't ask me how I know...
Rob
05-05-2010, 11:02 AM
#19
GT3 player par excellence
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05-05-2010, 11:03 AM
#20
Nordschleife Master
For street I refer pc. For track I prefer paint. With that said, if the pc bakes at the proper temp it will not affect the integrity of the pc. You just don't want it overcooked.
05-05-2010, 12:13 PM
#21
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I have seen some race teams that run powder coated wheels on their race wheels.. when I asked about the issue about baking them and affect the strength of the wheel, I was told that they only bake at 350 degree or so.. and the temperature that the wheels see in race condition probably exceeds that anyway... so I guess there's people who take that view as well.. !
05-05-2010, 12:58 PM
#22
The advantage of powdercoating is that it's easy and relatively inexpensive and it looks quite nice when it's new. it also does a pretty good job of covering evenly, even in nooks and crannies where it might be hard to get in with a spray gun.
But the disadvantages are many. It's thick and gooey, so it covers up cracks and flaws, which on wheels, you really don't want to hide. Because it's thick, it sometimes interferes with the assembly of close-fitting parts, like wheel centers in multipiece rims and 911 fans in fan shrouds. Powder coating is hard to remove, impossible to do spot repairs on, and hard to match with any kind of touch up paint. If you need to repair it, you really have to start over, which requires removal of the powder coating, which is not trivial. Though it's pretty tough, it is also heavy, it's fairly easily scratched and scuffed, and it can be damaged by certain common chemical solvents, like Brakleen. And as has been discussed here, because it has so much compliance, it tends to ooze and flow, which is particularly bad if you are trying to maintain torque on a clamped joint that has powdercoated surfaces.
I had a multipiece wheel fail 8 perimeter bolts and cause a flat tire on the track because the center was powdercoated and the perimeter bolts lost torque. I should have had the clamping surface masked somehow, or I should have ground off the powder coating on those surfaces before assembly. If you have powdercoated wheels, you should frequently check the torque on the perimeter bolts and lug nuts if the powdercoating is in the joint. I also had an entire 911 race car tub, cage and all, powdercoated. It looked beautiful when it was new, but I'd never do it again -- it has too many limitations.
cfjan is right -- the baking temperature is not high enough to have any negative effect on a wheel. But this highlights yet another limitation of powdercoating -- whatever you have finished that way has to be capable of being put in an oven, so obviously it has to be all metal.
I would much sooner paint a wheel than powder coat it, for all the reasons stated. The best is natural finish, so you can watch for cracks and flaws. I don't know enough about anodizing to have an opinion on that.
Rob
But the disadvantages are many. It's thick and gooey, so it covers up cracks and flaws, which on wheels, you really don't want to hide. Because it's thick, it sometimes interferes with the assembly of close-fitting parts, like wheel centers in multipiece rims and 911 fans in fan shrouds. Powder coating is hard to remove, impossible to do spot repairs on, and hard to match with any kind of touch up paint. If you need to repair it, you really have to start over, which requires removal of the powder coating, which is not trivial. Though it's pretty tough, it is also heavy, it's fairly easily scratched and scuffed, and it can be damaged by certain common chemical solvents, like Brakleen. And as has been discussed here, because it has so much compliance, it tends to ooze and flow, which is particularly bad if you are trying to maintain torque on a clamped joint that has powdercoated surfaces.
I had a multipiece wheel fail 8 perimeter bolts and cause a flat tire on the track because the center was powdercoated and the perimeter bolts lost torque. I should have had the clamping surface masked somehow, or I should have ground off the powder coating on those surfaces before assembly. If you have powdercoated wheels, you should frequently check the torque on the perimeter bolts and lug nuts if the powdercoating is in the joint. I also had an entire 911 race car tub, cage and all, powdercoated. It looked beautiful when it was new, but I'd never do it again -- it has too many limitations.
cfjan is right -- the baking temperature is not high enough to have any negative effect on a wheel. But this highlights yet another limitation of powdercoating -- whatever you have finished that way has to be capable of being put in an oven, so obviously it has to be all metal.
I would much sooner paint a wheel than powder coat it, for all the reasons stated. The best is natural finish, so you can watch for cracks and flaws. I don't know enough about anodizing to have an opinion on that.
Rob
05-05-2010, 12:59 PM
#23
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Yeah, powder coating is usually around 400F for 30-40 mins. Might affect some really crappy wheels. Don't know.
IMHO, anno is best. ultra thin coating that won't deform like powder.
Paint is next on my list
Powder - wouldn't do it.
If a wheel is cracking, the crack won't telegraph through powder like it will through paint. Even for street wheels there is the chance I'd run them on a rainy track day. If a street wheel was powder coated and cracked so I couldn't see it, I'd run the risk of a high speed failure. Won't do it.
Anno or paint for me.
Besides....powder is heavy. Slows you down.
IMHO, anno is best. ultra thin coating that won't deform like powder.
Paint is next on my list
Powder - wouldn't do it.
If a wheel is cracking, the crack won't telegraph through powder like it will through paint. Even for street wheels there is the chance I'd run them on a rainy track day. If a street wheel was powder coated and cracked so I couldn't see it, I'd run the risk of a high speed failure. Won't do it.
Anno or paint for me.
Besides....powder is heavy. Slows you down.
05-05-2010, 01:15 PM
#26
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The only thing I worry about anodizing is the color fading issue.. supposedly it is a lot better now, though...
How does the finish hold up to normal use?
How does the finish hold up to normal use?
05-05-2010, 01:21 PM
#27
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That one extreme pic you saw floating around here (wheels going almost white) was a bad batch, as far as I'm aware. I think CCW has changed their anodizing people. I know they had issues with finish quality 2-3 years ago when they were trying out different suppliers. The wheels in my pic are from spring 2008 and still look good.
I'd get them anodized and down the road if they go a little bit purple due to the heat, enjoy the cool look as a sign that your skills are improving or get them painted.
I'd get them anodized and down the road if they go a little bit purple due to the heat, enjoy the cool look as a sign that your skills are improving or get them painted.
05-05-2010, 01:31 PM
#28
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Let's give this thread back to Victor. 
He's looking for one stock rear 996 GT3 wheel.
Victor wrote: "...one of my rear wheels is damaged. I need one stock rear. Can someone point me in the right direction?"
He's looking for one stock rear 996 GT3 wheel.
Victor wrote: "...one of my rear wheels is damaged. I need one stock rear. Can someone point me in the right direction?"
05-05-2010, 01:38 PM
#29
Three Wheelin'
05-05-2010, 03:52 PM
#30
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The advantage of powdercoating is that it's easy and relatively inexpensive and it looks quite nice when it's new. it also does a pretty good job of covering evenly, even in nooks and crannies where it might be hard to get in with a spray gun.
But the disadvantages are many. It's thick and gooey, so it covers up cracks and flaws, which on wheels, you really don't want to hide. Because it's thick, it sometimes interferes with the assembly of close-fitting parts, like wheel centers in multipiece rims and 911 fans in fan shrouds. Powder coating is hard to remove, impossible to do spot repairs on, and hard to match with any kind of touch up paint. If you need to repair it, you really have to start over, which requires removal of the powder coating, which is not trivial. Though it's pretty tough, it is also heavy, it's fairly easily scratched and scuffed, and it can be damaged by certain common chemical solvents, like Brakleen. And as has been discussed here, because it has so much compliance, it tends to ooze and flow, which is particularly bad if you are trying to maintain torque on a clamped joint that has powdercoated surfaces.
I had a multipiece wheel fail 8 perimeter bolts and cause a flat tire on the track because the center was powdercoated and the perimeter bolts lost torque. I should have had the clamping surface masked somehow, or I should have ground off the powder coating on those surfaces before assembly. If you have powdercoated wheels, you should frequently check the torque on the perimeter bolts and lug nuts if the powdercoating is in the joint. I also had an entire 911 race car tub, cage and all, powdercoated. It looked beautiful when it was new, but I'd never do it again -- it has too many limitations.
cfjan is right -- the baking temperature is not high enough to have any negative effect on a wheel. But this highlights yet another limitation of powdercoating -- whatever you have finished that way has to be capable of being put in an oven, so obviously it has to be all metal.
I would much sooner paint a wheel than powder coat it, for all the reasons stated. The best is natural finish, so you can watch for cracks and flaws. I don't know enough about anodizing to have an opinion on that.
Rob
But the disadvantages are many. It's thick and gooey, so it covers up cracks and flaws, which on wheels, you really don't want to hide. Because it's thick, it sometimes interferes with the assembly of close-fitting parts, like wheel centers in multipiece rims and 911 fans in fan shrouds. Powder coating is hard to remove, impossible to do spot repairs on, and hard to match with any kind of touch up paint. If you need to repair it, you really have to start over, which requires removal of the powder coating, which is not trivial. Though it's pretty tough, it is also heavy, it's fairly easily scratched and scuffed, and it can be damaged by certain common chemical solvents, like Brakleen. And as has been discussed here, because it has so much compliance, it tends to ooze and flow, which is particularly bad if you are trying to maintain torque on a clamped joint that has powdercoated surfaces.
I had a multipiece wheel fail 8 perimeter bolts and cause a flat tire on the track because the center was powdercoated and the perimeter bolts lost torque. I should have had the clamping surface masked somehow, or I should have ground off the powder coating on those surfaces before assembly. If you have powdercoated wheels, you should frequently check the torque on the perimeter bolts and lug nuts if the powdercoating is in the joint. I also had an entire 911 race car tub, cage and all, powdercoated. It looked beautiful when it was new, but I'd never do it again -- it has too many limitations.
cfjan is right -- the baking temperature is not high enough to have any negative effect on a wheel. But this highlights yet another limitation of powdercoating -- whatever you have finished that way has to be capable of being put in an oven, so obviously it has to be all metal.
I would much sooner paint a wheel than powder coat it, for all the reasons stated. The best is natural finish, so you can watch for cracks and flaws. I don't know enough about anodizing to have an opinion on that.
Rob
