High mileage GT3 projects continue (trans/diff ++)
#31
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Also installed the rear rotors today. Saw something I hadn't noticed on other rotors before. See the very shallow holes drilled outside the regular holes in 2nd photo.
#32
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I spoke to Chris briefly about the 3.8 that CJfan asked about. He says it's a pretty straightforward installation with new pistons and cylinders. When it's done and running perfectly, I'll ask him if he wants to offer it as a package.
#34
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Thanks!!
By the way, it is CFJAN, not CJFan...![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
By the way, it is CFJAN, not CJFan...
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
#35
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JR944,
shoot. I wish I had found your thread a week ago I've been looking for a local Colorado test mule for some GT3 gearbox parts. Have you got it in you to rip that gearbox back out, install some parts for a month, and then take them back out again? I'll make it worth your while. Call me at the shop if you are interested.
Matt Monson
Guard Transmission
303-530-1094
shoot. I wish I had found your thread a week ago I've been looking for a local Colorado test mule for some GT3 gearbox parts. Have you got it in you to rip that gearbox back out, install some parts for a month, and then take them back out again? I'll make it worth your while. Call me at the shop if you are interested.
Matt Monson
Guard Transmission
303-530-1094
#37
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Sorry, no updates (or progress) for a few days.
Spend the afternoon yesterday cleaning CV joints. As most of you probably know, the outer CV, as it comes from Porsche is NOT rebuildable as the inner cover is permanently crimped to the joint.
This shop is not the only place doing this. It's something Chris has done quite a bit for Cup Cars. The factory options for Cup cars are the blue axles at something like $5,000 a pair that come from Porsche packed with the really good (Krytox) grease. They can also use the standard axles that come on our cars and 996Turbo, but those come from the factory with standard black moly grease. What Chris has done is fabricated a way to mount the axle in a lathe and carefully cut the inner cover of the outer joint just outside of the factory crimp. He does this with brand new turbo/GT3 axles (which cost $800+/pair) then replaces the grease with Krytox. He drills and taps the joint itself and uses small allen bolts to re-attach the cover.
Our cars are not nearly as prone to issues as the axle to joint angle is not as severe as a Cup car running same or lower ride height with taller tires. But.... I decided that checking, cleaning, re-packing, and replacing boots on mine would be prudent. I've never run any other car nearly this many miles without servicing the CV's. These photos represent about 4 hours of work, half a roll of paper towels, and half a can of brake cleaner. Since the budget doesn't allow the use of $350+ of Krytox, I'm going to use perhaps $25-40 worth of Redline CV-2 synthetic grease.
I hope the photos make sense. First two are the outer cap that has been carefully cut off and the remaining ring that is just snipped off. You can see the groove it was in on the joint just inside of the green ring. The poorly focused photo shows the inner joint (which is serviceable in the standard manner) showing the raised ridge on the joint goes toward the INSIDE of the axle.
My total cost for freshly serviced axles will be about 6 hours of my time plus an hour of Cervelli's time to machine the caps and joints plus less than $50 of grease, boots, and a couple replacement bolts. Compared to $650 for new joints and boots (that would still need to be packed) or $850+ for complete axles with standard grease, it's well worth my time.
Joe
Spend the afternoon yesterday cleaning CV joints. As most of you probably know, the outer CV, as it comes from Porsche is NOT rebuildable as the inner cover is permanently crimped to the joint.
This shop is not the only place doing this. It's something Chris has done quite a bit for Cup Cars. The factory options for Cup cars are the blue axles at something like $5,000 a pair that come from Porsche packed with the really good (Krytox) grease. They can also use the standard axles that come on our cars and 996Turbo, but those come from the factory with standard black moly grease. What Chris has done is fabricated a way to mount the axle in a lathe and carefully cut the inner cover of the outer joint just outside of the factory crimp. He does this with brand new turbo/GT3 axles (which cost $800+/pair) then replaces the grease with Krytox. He drills and taps the joint itself and uses small allen bolts to re-attach the cover.
Our cars are not nearly as prone to issues as the axle to joint angle is not as severe as a Cup car running same or lower ride height with taller tires. But.... I decided that checking, cleaning, re-packing, and replacing boots on mine would be prudent. I've never run any other car nearly this many miles without servicing the CV's. These photos represent about 4 hours of work, half a roll of paper towels, and half a can of brake cleaner. Since the budget doesn't allow the use of $350+ of Krytox, I'm going to use perhaps $25-40 worth of Redline CV-2 synthetic grease.
I hope the photos make sense. First two are the outer cap that has been carefully cut off and the remaining ring that is just snipped off. You can see the groove it was in on the joint just inside of the green ring. The poorly focused photo shows the inner joint (which is serviceable in the standard manner) showing the raised ridge on the joint goes toward the INSIDE of the axle.
My total cost for freshly serviced axles will be about 6 hours of my time plus an hour of Cervelli's time to machine the caps and joints plus less than $50 of grease, boots, and a couple replacement bolts. Compared to $650 for new joints and boots (that would still need to be packed) or $850+ for complete axles with standard grease, it's well worth my time.
Joe
Last edited by JR944; 02-17-2010 at 04:56 PM.
#39
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Thanks for all the information and the great photos. The photos really help when Rennlisters ask technical questions.
I think we are all pretty happy with the robustness of the GT3, other than the fast wearing pre load components in the limited slip differential.
I sent you a couple private messages today.
I think we are all pretty happy with the robustness of the GT3, other than the fast wearing pre load components in the limited slip differential.
I sent you a couple private messages today.
#41
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^ Me too, I've got the 997 shifter (997 424 010 00) ready to install, but want to get the cup cables and do it all at once. My hesitation/question is about connecting the cup cables (996 424 040 75) to the shifter. Any insights there would be greatly appreciated.
#42
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great tread...my friend has a mk1 and its done 92k miles...and it lives at the ring in germany...!! most things on car have not been touched apart from a gearbox build....!! on mantheys rolling road at 90k it produced 361 bhp exactually standard power after 92 k being murderer to death...some cars the gt3's...!! did a trackday in silverstone and the mk1 was **** all slower down the back straight than my 997 gt3...!!
#43
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This is a great thread! Keep posting your work and pics.
#44
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I received replacement mufflers from a RL'er who sent them to me at a very generous price. THANK YOU!
Spent about an hour on the tips today. Not something I'd normally spend time on, but as long as they were out and easily accessible.....
Spent about an hour on the tips today. Not something I'd normally spend time on, but as long as they were out and easily accessible.....
Last edited by JR944; 02-27-2010 at 01:31 AM.
#45
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We pulled the gearbox mostly back apart for Matt at Guard Transmission (now located in nearby Boulder, CO). Decided not to put anything different in, but Matt provided steel synchros for 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears.
Check out the huge gear puller.
Last photo shows the diff and a little bit of the ring gear inside the case.
Check out the huge gear puller.
Last photo shows the diff and a little bit of the ring gear inside the case.