New Purchase First Question
#1
Burning Brakes
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New Purchase First Question
Bought this a couple of months ago after returning to home country. It's my daily driver plus track car plus highway comuter.
For daily drives I notice a strange torque character: Idle to 2400rpm seems fine but it feels like torque takes a severe dip from 2400 to 3000 rpm such that if I let the clutch out from standstill at about 2400 rpm engine feels like it's going to stall. Letting the clutch out from standstill from 1500rpm or from above 3000 rpm the engine seems fine though if I start from 1500rpm the car tends to not pull in the mystery rpm range of 2400rpm to 3000 rpm and then I feel a torque surge similar to a turbo engine from about 3200rpm on.
Looking at dynographs from the web it does look like there is a sudden severe drop in torque in the mentioned rpm range. It's not such a big issue except in bumper to bumper jams or starting off a steep carpark ramp from standstill while in mid ramp. In my case it may be more pronounced an irritation given sports clutch, super lightweight flywheel and high lift cams. It's go cupcar ratios too apparently. Great for track and when traffic is moving.
Has anyone found the cause, a solution or tuned this out?
Will post tweaks that I intend to do in coming weeks, right now trying to sort this out with my tuner
Last edited by pzull; 01-16-2010 at 10:13 PM.
#4
Rennlist Member
Wow they did a nice job on the paint and the fenders. Looks great in green. Nemore pics?Well superlite weight flywheel how lite? I have lwf but it's oem lwf- even liter can explain the sensation of stalling. Sounds like it needs a good tuning esp with the cam mod. Mike.
#5
Burning Brakes
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Will take a few more pics soon. the car is as is when I bought it except for the wheels which were cargraphic with offsets for wide body and rubbed against the fenders hence the change.
Don't have too much details on exact parts/mods done. The flywheel feels alot lighter based on heel/toe responsiveness compared to the sachs lightweight one that I had on my ex-car.
I can get the car moving from standstill without any throttle but hit the sweet spot and the engine chokes and bogs down, hesitates and then gets going only if I give it more throttle.
Add on flares were done without any cutaway of inner wheel well so can't get wider track than stock ie. it's currently just cosmetic. Yes them louvres takes some getting used to, I'm not there yet.
There's change of bore and stroke I think, so engine pulls stronger than stock just too many peaks n dips in torque along the power band. Car is loud with equal length headers and crazy small cargraphic mufflers (effectively about 2 inches worth of perforated pipe....I opened them up). Still trying to investigate if the cam mod maintained variocam or now non variable
Cant wait to sort out the minor niggles, meantime it requires concentartion driving in rush hour
Bought it compared to 2 other examples I trialed due to low miles and stronger engine.
Don't have too much details on exact parts/mods done. The flywheel feels alot lighter based on heel/toe responsiveness compared to the sachs lightweight one that I had on my ex-car.
I can get the car moving from standstill without any throttle but hit the sweet spot and the engine chokes and bogs down, hesitates and then gets going only if I give it more throttle.
Add on flares were done without any cutaway of inner wheel well so can't get wider track than stock ie. it's currently just cosmetic. Yes them louvres takes some getting used to, I'm not there yet.
There's change of bore and stroke I think, so engine pulls stronger than stock just too many peaks n dips in torque along the power band. Car is loud with equal length headers and crazy small cargraphic mufflers (effectively about 2 inches worth of perforated pipe....I opened them up). Still trying to investigate if the cam mod maintained variocam or now non variable
Cant wait to sort out the minor niggles, meantime it requires concentartion driving in rush hour
Bought it compared to 2 other examples I trialed due to low miles and stronger engine.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Wow.... that's cool looking! Sorry I can't help you with the issue you seem to be having but love the pic.
Do you happen to know where the flares came from?
Hope you get it sorted out and can't wait to see more pics!
Do you happen to know where the flares came from?
Hope you get it sorted out and can't wait to see more pics!
#7
Three Wheelin'
I like the louvres and am told the air that escapes from them help suck the front of the car down.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
sounds like they did a lot of mechanical work and forgot to flash the ECU. Might contact Sharkwerks and mail him your unit. There are also ones that do it via downloads.
#10
Burning Brakes
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Flares and add on louvres from cargraphic.
The louvres are supposed to reduce pressure buildup in front wheel wells. Not entirely sure what the theory is behind it - downforce or drag? Guess same theory as the TVR sagaris.
Where's a good eliable online place I can order a cupcar front lip? Cracked the carbon fiber one that came with this car. It's just too low for many carpark ramps.
Anyone can recommend a good hybrid alignment setup for both road and track? Car will spend 80% on road and 20% on track. In any case, what's the stock setup for toe, camber and corner weights? Running 235F and 305R on 19 inch wheels. RE011 tires but looking to switch to Yoko AD08 once it's worn. Loved the AD07 but now discontinued IMHO the best street tire with R compound characteristics
The louvres are supposed to reduce pressure buildup in front wheel wells. Not entirely sure what the theory is behind it - downforce or drag? Guess same theory as the TVR sagaris.
Where's a good eliable online place I can order a cupcar front lip? Cracked the carbon fiber one that came with this car. It's just too low for many carpark ramps.
Anyone can recommend a good hybrid alignment setup for both road and track? Car will spend 80% on road and 20% on track. In any case, what's the stock setup for toe, camber and corner weights? Running 235F and 305R on 19 inch wheels. RE011 tires but looking to switch to Yoko AD08 once it's worn. Loved the AD07 but now discontinued IMHO the best street tire with R compound characteristics
#11
Rennlist Member
That's odd.. the car seems to be well done but they omitted something like this?! You mean the original bodywork (now covered by the new flares) need to be trimmed, right?
If you are keeping the flares, shouldn't you be doing that instead of swapping the wheel to the narrow body setup?
Great looking car!! Good luck!!
If you are keeping the flares, shouldn't you be doing that instead of swapping the wheel to the narrow body setup?
Great looking car!! Good luck!!
#12
Burning Brakes
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That's odd.. the car seems to be well done but they omitted something like this?! You mean the original bodywork (now covered by the new flares) need to be trimmed, right?
If you are keeping the flares, shouldn't you be doing that instead of swapping the wheel to the narrow body setup?
Great looking car!! Good luck!!
If you are keeping the flares, shouldn't you be doing that instead of swapping the wheel to the narrow body setup?
Great looking car!! Good luck!!
Swapped out wheels/tires as I needed to track the car 2 weeks into ownership and doing the body work would've taken too long and would mean I missed the trackday.
The flares add maximum 1 inch on each side so am not sure it would be money best spent vs improvement in handling. Right now focussing on getting engine retuned and tires realigned (currently looks like -0.5F and -3.5R camber). ALso swapping out cargraphic extreme loud mufflers to a custom muffler that I will have fabricated.
How does one clean the internal face of the rear windscreen with the roll cage installed? I nearly got myself damn tangled/trapped in the cage trying to reach it to clean
#13
Rennlist Member
I see, got it.
-3.5R on the back.. that's a lot of camber!
Please keep us posted!
Regarding cleaning the window, I think you just need to use some extension pole to reach the back...
-3.5R on the back.. that's a lot of camber!
Please keep us posted!
Regarding cleaning the window, I think you just need to use some extension pole to reach the back...
#15
Rennlist Member
Here is a good starting point:
GT3 Mk-II (2004-2005) Kussumaul
Front Axle
ride height 115 mm +5 mm -0 mm (same as stock)
Toe Unpressed (total) +5'
Toe difference angle at 20deg lock -1º 20' ± 30'
Camber (with wheels in straight-ahead position) -2.5º ± 5', max. difference, left to right, 5'
Caster 8º ± 30' (same as stock), max. difference, left to right, 30'
Stabilizer setting 4 (1=softest/outermost) (same as stock)
Rear Axle
ride height 128 mm +5 mm -0 mm (same as stock)
Toe per wheel +35' ± 2', max. difference, left to right 5' (same as stock)
Camber -2.3º 50' ± 5', max. difference, left to right 10' (same as stock)
stabilizer setting 4 (1=softest/outermost)
For the splitter, these guys are good:
http://www.e-partssales.com/miva//me...ry_Code=996gt3
Congrats on the purchase... is that the original color?
GT3 Mk-II (2004-2005) Kussumaul
Front Axle
ride height 115 mm +5 mm -0 mm (same as stock)
Toe Unpressed (total) +5'
Toe difference angle at 20deg lock -1º 20' ± 30'
Camber (with wheels in straight-ahead position) -2.5º ± 5', max. difference, left to right, 5'
Caster 8º ± 30' (same as stock), max. difference, left to right, 30'
Stabilizer setting 4 (1=softest/outermost) (same as stock)
Rear Axle
ride height 128 mm +5 mm -0 mm (same as stock)
Toe per wheel +35' ± 2', max. difference, left to right 5' (same as stock)
Camber -2.3º 50' ± 5', max. difference, left to right 10' (same as stock)
stabilizer setting 4 (1=softest/outermost)
For the splitter, these guys are good:
http://www.e-partssales.com/miva//me...ry_Code=996gt3
Congrats on the purchase... is that the original color?