Chunk in my gear oil
#16
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
in a cup car, i am in 6th gear before braking for T1 at TH.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
But $10k is a hard sell at home, maybe just maintenance for now
#18
Rennlist Member
4.0 r/p is another cheaper alternative say 3500-4500 including labor. I'll be in 4th heading into carousel- no bouncing of rev limiter. I'm at 3rd heading into turn 4- great Trq going thru there. Only thing u lose top end speed from 191 to 178mph and 1st gear pretty useless- it'll hit rev limiter pretty quickly. Mike
#19
Nordschleife Master
4.0 r/p is another cheaper alternative say 3500-4500 including labor. I'll be in 4th heading into carousel- no bouncing of rev limiter. I'm at 3rd heading into turn 4- great Trq going thru there. Only thing u lose top end speed from 191 to 178mph and 1st gear pretty useless- it'll hit rev limiter pretty quickly. Mike
Also the 4.0 R/P's wear out significantly more quickly than the stock ratio. They've only got about two seasons of hard racing on them before they need to be replaced.
Lastly, he shouldn't forget to budget to do something about the POS factory LSD while in there. There's a number of options there ranging in cost from just shy of $1000 to upwards of $4000.
#20
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
^ full agreement.
i did 4.0 RP, i would not do it again. u are still stuck in b/n gears, just one gear higher.
you really need BOTH restacked gears and 4.0 and a real LSD....
of course all that took more than one day to do, so i sold the car LOL.
mike, just buy the cup car and be done with it.
i did 4.0 RP, i would not do it again. u are still stuck in b/n gears, just one gear higher.
you really need BOTH restacked gears and 4.0 and a real LSD....
of course all that took more than one day to do, so i sold the car LOL.
mike, just buy the cup car and be done with it.
#21
Rennlist Member
Stock LSD is a pos that's why I already have a Guards LSD when it died : ). Awesome LSD by the way If he had to rebuild his tranny I concur the r/p would be an added cost. I had mine done with an intact tranny courtesy of brian copans. As far as wear goes I agree but I only do DE's and occasional racing(by your standards and mine it's not really racing) but abit more competitive then a typical de. If I had from the beginning done ne racing-
yes a regear is the best option. Mike
yes a regear is the best option. Mike
#23
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
^ no ac no radio, it has to be cheaper
#24
Rennlist Member
4.0 R/P is going to cost him about the same as 3 gears, and will cost more to install because it's got to be reset from ground zero. It's several hundred dollars more in labor for the R/P set up beyond a standard rebuild.
Also the 4.0 R/P's wear out significantly more quickly than the stock ratio. They've only got about two seasons of hard racing on them before they need to be replaced.
Lastly, he shouldn't forget to budget to do something about the POS factory LSD while in there. There's a number of options there ranging in cost from just shy of $1000 to upwards of $4000.
Also the 4.0 R/P's wear out significantly more quickly than the stock ratio. They've only got about two seasons of hard racing on them before they need to be replaced.
Lastly, he shouldn't forget to budget to do something about the POS factory LSD while in there. There's a number of options there ranging in cost from just shy of $1000 to upwards of $4000.
Spot on. Matt wouldn't you move 5th to 6th if regearing and change 3/4/5. I know this wouldn't make road cruising better but I don't think I hit 5th on the track except @ VIR for a moment.
Peter
#25
Nordschleife Master
I'll also mention that we've got an 8:33 R/P (4.125) in production right now that will resolve some of the issues that the 4.00 presents. We should have it available before the Spring.