Alternator failure
07-06-2009, 05:22 PM
#31
Holger:
Looking at your photos but I don't see the second bolt that holds the alternator in place; is it under the oil filter bracket? Also where is the tensioner? When you say turn the tensioner bolt clockwise, do you mean remove it that way or does turning it that way release tension on the belt while you are applying the clockwise force? You mentioned filing a bit off the tab on the rear..is that area to be filed visible in the photos? Just checking before I get myself in trouble, again. Thanks.
Zed
2004 GT3
Looking at your photos but I don't see the second bolt that holds the alternator in place; is it under the oil filter bracket? Also where is the tensioner? When you say turn the tensioner bolt clockwise, do you mean remove it that way or does turning it that way release tension on the belt while you are applying the clockwise force? You mentioned filing a bit off the tab on the rear..is that area to be filed visible in the photos? Just checking before I get myself in trouble, again. Thanks.
Zed
2004 GT3
07-06-2009, 05:54 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
It's really much simpler than it sounds. To answer your questions, I attempted to label the photo below. There are 2 bolts that hold the alternator in place. The one on the left comes out from behind (use a 15mm wrench and a lot of small turns). The right side is what you'll have to pry off (after removing both bolts) and it has the two arms that protrude from the alternator. It's the inside of that rear one that I'd file or grind down a little to get it back on more easily (I'd do the rear to keep the alignment for the pulley & belt the same). The yellow circle is the bolt for the tensioner. It's not really a bolt, but turning that clockwise pivots the arm and loosens the tension on the belt so that you can slip it off. I hope some of this makes sense, it will when you get in there.
Zed
07-07-2009, 03:45 AM
#33
Rennlist Member
Removed alternator this evening. In addition to Holger's excellent info here are some additional tips for the novice. More photos with caption will follow....
First leave the window down a little before disconnecting the battery.
First leave the window down a little before disconnecting the battery.
07-07-2009, 03:47 AM
#35
Rennlist Member
Cover front and rear latches to avoid accidentally locking the trunk and engine covers. Latches are electrically operated.
Last edited by zed996tt; 07-07-2009 at 04:19 AM.
07-07-2009, 03:53 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
Tools needed to remove alternator:
1. crowbar (a gentle touch is required to pry loose, do not force the unit)
2. screwdriver (slotted)
3. ratchet handle 3/8 drive
4. socket adaptors (if necessary) 1/2 inch to 3/8 and 3/8 to 1/4
5. socket extensions
6. long handle for socket (1/2 inch drive)
7. 15MM wrench
8. 3 sockets: 15mm, 13mm and 10mm
9. 6mm hex (allen) key
1. crowbar (a gentle touch is required to pry loose, do not force the unit)
2. screwdriver (slotted)
3. ratchet handle 3/8 drive
4. socket adaptors (if necessary) 1/2 inch to 3/8 and 3/8 to 1/4
5. socket extensions
6. long handle for socket (1/2 inch drive)
7. 15MM wrench
8. 3 sockets: 15mm, 13mm and 10mm
9. 6mm hex (allen) key
Last edited by zed996tt; 07-07-2009 at 04:20 AM.
07-07-2009, 04:01 AM
#37
Rennlist Member
Cause of difficulty to remove alternator after all bolts have been removed is likely to be rust at the flanges. Threaded steel insert in the alternator boss and the steel plate in the middle of alternator both show evidence of rust. Water enters through fan opening directly above the unit. As others have already said, water is also likely to be cause of premature failure of the unit itself (or regulator/diodes).
Last edited by zed996tt; 07-07-2009 at 04:21 AM.
07-07-2009, 04:06 AM
#38
Rennlist Member
I will use some light sandpaper and anti-seize compound on the flanges upon reinstallation. (to make it easy for the next man; he might be me!). OEM is likely to be a light interference fit, so should go lightly on any sanding or filing.
07-07-2009, 04:10 AM
#39
Rennlist Member
Oh so gentle with the prybar. You do not want to crack the mounting flange. Rock the unit side to side to loosen it. My unit did not move by hand but moved very easily with the prybar. Do not crack the mounting flange. Do not crack the mounting flange.
07-07-2009, 04:28 AM
#42
Rennlist Member
Will drop off the alternator at the shop tomorrow. Will spend tomorrow night cleaning the engine compartment given the free access. (Yep, I'm one of those.) Anyhow, stay tuned for repair cost, reinstall and road test.
Zed
2004 GT3
Zed
2004 GT3
07-09-2009, 02:57 AM
#43
Rennlist Member
Alternator is back from the repair shop. Tech indicated that there was rust and corrosion in the unit. Total parts and labor = $120
L&S Auto Electric 2028 Cotner Ave, LA, CA 90025
Ask for Salvador (213) 479-7691
L&S Auto Electric 2028 Cotner Ave, LA, CA 90025
Ask for Salvador (213) 479-7691
07-09-2009, 03:08 AM
#44
Rennlist Member
To ease fitting to mounting flange use flat file to skim the threaded insert in the alternator boss. Use 400 paper to smooth contact surfaces on alternator and on flanges. I used anti-seize compound on contact surfaces. Unit went on OK but is still a snug fit by hand. Use screwdriver to center mounting holes for long bolt. I used thread locking compound on the bolts. I inserted the long bolt first and rocked the unit side to side to get the far side hole to line up for the threaded tip of that bolt. Then inserted and tightened the shorter bolt which is inserted from the far side; tighten long bolt last.
Last edited by zed996tt; 07-09-2009 at 03:29 AM.
07-09-2009, 03:27 AM
#45
Rennlist Member
Reinstall and tighten oil filter bracket. Clean working surface of idler pulley to remove any grease or oil from hands. Use 15mm socket on tensioner bolt, turn clockwise and install belt on alternator pulley and idler pulley. Confirm that belt fits properly on all pulleys. Attach airbox to car and fit electrical connector to airbox. Reconnect battery. Get ready to fire her up!