Throttle induced understeer - solution?
#31
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Gordon, NJ-GT,
Ted drove it (although much faster than I), both of us had the same issue on exit to 2 and 8. Based on all feedback, what is validated:
- Aggressive street alignment (Less than neg 2 degree camber) is most likely the largest issue.
- Both front and rear bar settings. Currently reset to: Front: One from full soft. Rear: One from full hard.
- Moton CS settings: At Pacific used: Front: Compression: 2, Rebound: 3. Rear 2, 3.
Thanks all, learning a lot!
Ted drove it (although much faster than I), both of us had the same issue on exit to 2 and 8. Based on all feedback, what is validated:
- Aggressive street alignment (Less than neg 2 degree camber) is most likely the largest issue.
- Both front and rear bar settings. Currently reset to: Front: One from full soft. Rear: One from full hard.
- Moton CS settings: At Pacific used: Front: Compression: 2, Rebound: 3. Rear 2, 3.
Thanks all, learning a lot!
#32
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What are your front and rear toe settings? This will have a huge impact on what the proper sway bar settings are.
I have Moton CS's set on long courses at the same settings you have (of course, I don't know what pressure you have the canisters set at). With slight front toe out (7' or .15 degrees ea.), my front bar is full hard and rear is middle. When I was running with slight front toe in, my front bar was two notches softer (mid-setting). In other words, a change from .15 degrees toe in front to .15 degrees tow out front required a significant sway bar change to keep the car neutral.
Jim
I have Moton CS's set on long courses at the same settings you have (of course, I don't know what pressure you have the canisters set at). With slight front toe out (7' or .15 degrees ea.), my front bar is full hard and rear is middle. When I was running with slight front toe in, my front bar was two notches softer (mid-setting). In other words, a change from .15 degrees toe in front to .15 degrees tow out front required a significant sway bar change to keep the car neutral.
Jim
#33
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Why in the world would you run toe IN up front??? That makes ZERO sense and will do nothing for turn in and will actually increase understeer in the corners and scrub speed in the straights.
Last edited by LVDell; 10-28-2008 at 10:58 AM.
#34
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conservative: zero toe front
usually for GT3: toe OUT front.
usually for GT3: toe OUT front.
#35
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John, I have run both neutral as well as toe out and prefer neutral. The only time toe out helped was INITIAL turn-in but the trade-off for the tracking at high speed as well as slight speed scrub, I found neutral the best.
#36
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Instead of getting a new suspension kit, I went thru a several alignment specs (spent $2000 last year trying find the right settings
) and here's my 2 cents. I noticed having a slight toe-out at the front also makes the car more stable under braking (considering your diff is also locking up properly under deceleration) in addition to better turn in.
I get more confidence when braking into a turn or around late apex ones. Car seems to a bit nervous with zero or neutral settings in similar situations.
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#39
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i have motons and nittos. my settings are full soft front sway, full stiff back. on moton i use 1 compression, 6 rebound front and 6/6 at back. i have 600/800 springs. seems to work ok for me. i also have 3deg all around which is too much camber at rear for nittos but just fine or maybe a bit conservative at front.
i get a little oversteer which is correctable (sometimes...). here is how my car handles at infineon - atrack will all sorts of turns. u can see the corrections needed as rear comes out at turn 6 (carousel) and turn 7 (hairpin). but seems just fine on the long left hand sweep (t9) and right hand sweeper (t10).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9ZFi1Zx64c
i get a little oversteer which is correctable (sometimes...). here is how my car handles at infineon - atrack will all sorts of turns. u can see the corrections needed as rear comes out at turn 6 (carousel) and turn 7 (hairpin). but seems just fine on the long left hand sweep (t9) and right hand sweeper (t10).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9ZFi1Zx64c
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i have motons and nittos. my settings are full soft front sway, full stiff back. on moton i use 1 compression, 6 rebound front and 6/6 at back. i have 600/800 springs. seems to work ok for me. i also have 3deg all around which is too much camber at rear for nittos but just fine or maybe a bit conservative at front.
i get a little oversteer which is correctable (sometimes...). here is how my car handles at infineon - atrack will all sorts of turns. u can see the corrections needed as rear comes out at turn 6 (carousel) and turn 7 (hairpin). but seems just fine on the long left hand sweep (t9) and right hand sweeper (t10).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9ZFi1Zx64c
i get a little oversteer which is correctable (sometimes...). here is how my car handles at infineon - atrack will all sorts of turns. u can see the corrections needed as rear comes out at turn 6 (carousel) and turn 7 (hairpin). but seems just fine on the long left hand sweep (t9) and right hand sweeper (t10).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9ZFi1Zx64c
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#43
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#45
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Dell- toe in for front gives more on center straightline stability(does not wander like toe out does). Streetwise it's safer since it understeers too. Easier to correct understeer then oversteer. All cars are set up that way. 171 mph- wasn't it fun dicing/slicing with Nasa? 1:49 ugh - I won't even be close to u. See u nov 7/8. Regards mike