hoosiers
01-03-2008, 07:43 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Not trying to start a battle here as I have nothing to gain.
Considering what I said.. short distance to the track on newer R6s would not be a problem if you "had" to. An R6 has a wear rating of 40 which is really on the soft side.
The other such as MPSC (80), RA1 and R888 (100) would be no issue driving on the street to an event (some even use them as aggressive fair weather daily tires).
That's all
If ya need to get to the track on the R6s and don't have far to go, and the weather looks good, go for it. I would always stuff a full size front tire in the car as a real spare to get home.
Let us know how you make out. Most importantly, have fun doing it and stay safe.
Considering what I said.. short distance to the track on newer R6s would not be a problem if you "had" to. An R6 has a wear rating of 40 which is really on the soft side.
The other such as MPSC (80), RA1 and R888 (100) would be no issue driving on the street to an event (some even use them as aggressive fair weather daily tires).
That's all
If ya need to get to the track on the R6s and don't have far to go, and the weather looks good, go for it. I would always stuff a full size front tire in the car as a real spare to get home. Let us know how you make out.
Most importantly, have fun doing it and stay safe.I'll just want to add in that a vital data point here is the tire temp when you come into the pits after a track session. Target should be 180-200 F across the tires.
My hot pressure is 38-39 on my suspension setup.
Based on my experience with the R6 a pressure above 40 and temp above 200 and they are getting really greasy.
My hot pressure is 38-39 on my suspension setup.
Based on my experience with the R6 a pressure above 40 and temp above 200 and they are getting really greasy.
01-03-2008, 08:36 PM
#17
Nordschleife Master
Not trying to start a battle here as I have nothing to gain.
Considering what I said.. short distance to the track on newer R6s would not be a problem if you "had" to. An R6 has a wear rating of 40 which is really on the soft side.
The other such as MPSC (80), RA1 and R888 (100) would be no issue driving on the street to an event (some even use them as aggressive fair weather daily tires).
That's all If ya need to get to the track on the R6s and don't have far to go, and the weather looks good, go for it. I would always stuff a full size front tire in the car as a real spare to get home.
Let us know how you make out. Most importantly, have fun doing it and stay safe.
Considering what I said.. short distance to the track on newer R6s would not be a problem if you "had" to. An R6 has a wear rating of 40 which is really on the soft side.
The other such as MPSC (80), RA1 and R888 (100) would be no issue driving on the street to an event (some even use them as aggressive fair weather daily tires).
That's all
If ya need to get to the track on the R6s and don't have far to go, and the weather looks good, go for it. I would always stuff a full size front tire in the car as a real spare to get home. Let us know how you make out.
Most importantly, have fun doing it and stay safe.That funny since I haven't seen but a few GT3's NOT trailered to the track. And a few of the guys that don't trailer have a small tire trailer that is towed behind the 3.
01-03-2008, 08:37 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Mooty have u thought of Kuhmos v710-great feedback tire with tons of grip and wear just as well as the Hoosiers : ). I believe they are dot approved. mike
01-03-2008, 08:44 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
I drive RA-1s to the events w/ BFG R1s on top. I run the toyos the first day and BFGs the second and third.
There is a guy who goes to the FATTs at SPR in his Cobra who runs on hohos, probably about 50 miles or so each way (Cliff C).
There is a guy who goes to the FATTs at SPR in his Cobra who runs on hohos, probably about 50 miles or so each way (Cliff C).
01-03-2008, 08:58 PM
#20
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Last two events I attended (Oct-Thunderhill and Dec - Laguna) there must have been a combined 15 or so GT3s (6,7,RS)...none trailered, and just about everyone but me running rcomps.
01-03-2008, 11:40 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
I drive on Michelin cups year round and haven't had any problems. I'm too lazy to have a second set of wheels for the GT3. Been there done that before and not doing it again anytime soon. Arrive and drive baby. It's a beautiful thing. 
01-04-2008, 02:55 AM
#23
GT3 player par excellence
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it's essentially like R6.
i would drive mpsc, RA1, r888 in street.
i dont use mpsc much, i hate them very much.
i use toyo's as my every day tire. i dont swap them out.
i really love to try hoohoo and 710's, but i need to get more wheel sets and leave them in my friends' trailers.
01-04-2008, 02:56 AM
#24
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jeff s
jeff r
and another gent's name that i can never remember
01-04-2008, 08:39 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
my v710s came to peices very quickly but that was 2years ago... i was very disapointed i barley got one weekend out of them.
i still think it was a manufacture problem nt the " tire " surley it was not me overdriving the tires..... lol
but i have heard a lot of good things about them scince
i still think it was a manufacture problem nt the " tire " surley it was not me overdriving the tires..... lol
but i have heard a lot of good things about them scince
01-04-2008, 02:10 PM
#26
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As for myself, I said fawk it and I'll be running one set of wheels all summer. Last year I ended up driving on my Z211 almost the entire time and it was great. I used our local tire shop to carry my tires to the track once and it was neat but since I don't really drive the car other then to and on the track, this year I'll be driving on either nitto NT01 or toyo R888.
BTW thanks Dell for a great write up on the Nittos
BTW thanks Dell for a great write up on the Nittos
01-04-2008, 02:24 PM
#28
Nordschleife Master
From their site:
TIRE CARE TIPS
FOR R6 & A6 TIRES
(Download Printable Version)
The R6 and A6 have been developed to improve wear and consistency without any sacrifice of performance. In many cases, the performance will even improve over previous models. The new tire models are an evolution in the continuing effort to provide the best tire for racers.
- Tire Break-In Procedure
- Tire Temperature Recommendations
- Chassis Setup Recommendations
- Tire Pressure Recommendations
- Things to Consider
Tire Break-In Procedure
Proper break-in will not affect initial performance but will increase the competitive life of the tire.
The procedure can be broken down into phases.
1st phase: The initial run
2nd phase: The length of the time the tire is allowed to "cure"
The Initial Run Heat Cycle
R6 Roadrace
The first laps for the tire are critical for setting up the durability and competitive life. The first session should consist of no more than 10-15 minutes of running. The early part of the session should be run at an easy pace, with the speed gradually increased until the end of the session. The final lap should be run at the fastest possible speed. The intent is to achieve maximum tire temp on the last lap. At this point the car should be brought in and the tires allowed to cool at a normal rate.
During the initial run-in process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 4-7 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 7-10 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as possible on the last lap without "shocking" the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible.
A6 Autocross
For autocrossing, the A6 does not need the same break in procedure as the R6. The A6 needs a minimal scuff-in session before the first autocross run. This “session” can comprise of simply driving around the event site at minimal speeds on the A6 set of tires. By scrubbing off the newness of the tread (no or minimal shininess remaining) prior to your first competitive run, the A6 tires will be more consistent in handling, grip and responsiveness on the first run. If this is not completed, running on un-scuffed A6 tires on your first run may result in the tires not gripping properly, or feeling like they “skate” over the course surface. You are welcome to run 3 – 5 psi higher when scuffing in a new set of A6’s, but be sure to reset them to the correct operating pressures before your first autocross run. As you compile autocross runs on your new A6’s, they should become more consistent in run times.
"Cure" Time
After completing the initial run phase, the length of time the tire is allowed to set is possibly more important. The barest minimum for this process to be beneficial is 24 hours. (Not "the next day"). Any less than this is a waste of time. The best situation would allow a week before using the tire again.
Proper tire management is a difficult process. To accomplish this almost always requires a second set of wheels. The payoff is greatly increased competitive tire life.
Following the recommended break-in procedure will require a lot of planning to make it work. The benefits to doing it right include greatly increased tire life as well as consistent performance and durability under stress. Please make an effort to educate your team on the importance of this. It can save you a lot of money.
Tire Temperature Recommendations
For best performance the expected temperature range will vary from track to track. Generally, optimum traction will be generated when the pit lane temps show 180-200 degrees for the R6 in Roadrace applications, and 140-150 degrees for the A6 in an Autocross application.
Note: Use of static infra-red pyrometers is an inaccurate method to monitor tire temps.
Chassis Setup Recommendations
For optimum performance the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires require about 3 degrees of camber. There will be a trade off in maximum performance to maximize wear. Generally, 1/2 degrees less than optimum will result in the best compromise for wear and speed. Less than 2.5 degrees can result in excessive wear on the shoulder junction.
The Hoosier tires typically offer better performance with spring/shock rates higher than previous brands you may have run.
TIRE CARE TIPS
FOR R6 & A6 TIRES
(Download Printable Version)
The R6 and A6 have been developed to improve wear and consistency without any sacrifice of performance. In many cases, the performance will even improve over previous models. The new tire models are an evolution in the continuing effort to provide the best tire for racers.
- Tire Break-In Procedure
- Tire Temperature Recommendations
- Chassis Setup Recommendations
- Tire Pressure Recommendations
- Things to Consider
Tire Break-In Procedure
Proper break-in will not affect initial performance but will increase the competitive life of the tire.
The procedure can be broken down into phases.
1st phase: The initial run
2nd phase: The length of the time the tire is allowed to "cure"
The Initial Run Heat Cycle
R6 Roadrace
The first laps for the tire are critical for setting up the durability and competitive life. The first session should consist of no more than 10-15 minutes of running. The early part of the session should be run at an easy pace, with the speed gradually increased until the end of the session. The final lap should be run at the fastest possible speed. The intent is to achieve maximum tire temp on the last lap. At this point the car should be brought in and the tires allowed to cool at a normal rate.
During the initial run-in process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 4-7 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 7-10 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as possible on the last lap without "shocking" the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible.
A6 Autocross
For autocrossing, the A6 does not need the same break in procedure as the R6. The A6 needs a minimal scuff-in session before the first autocross run. This “session” can comprise of simply driving around the event site at minimal speeds on the A6 set of tires. By scrubbing off the newness of the tread (no or minimal shininess remaining) prior to your first competitive run, the A6 tires will be more consistent in handling, grip and responsiveness on the first run. If this is not completed, running on un-scuffed A6 tires on your first run may result in the tires not gripping properly, or feeling like they “skate” over the course surface. You are welcome to run 3 – 5 psi higher when scuffing in a new set of A6’s, but be sure to reset them to the correct operating pressures before your first autocross run. As you compile autocross runs on your new A6’s, they should become more consistent in run times.
"Cure" Time
After completing the initial run phase, the length of time the tire is allowed to set is possibly more important. The barest minimum for this process to be beneficial is 24 hours. (Not "the next day"). Any less than this is a waste of time. The best situation would allow a week before using the tire again.
Proper tire management is a difficult process. To accomplish this almost always requires a second set of wheels. The payoff is greatly increased competitive tire life.
Following the recommended break-in procedure will require a lot of planning to make it work. The benefits to doing it right include greatly increased tire life as well as consistent performance and durability under stress. Please make an effort to educate your team on the importance of this. It can save you a lot of money.
Tire Temperature Recommendations
For best performance the expected temperature range will vary from track to track. Generally, optimum traction will be generated when the pit lane temps show 180-200 degrees for the R6 in Roadrace applications, and 140-150 degrees for the A6 in an Autocross application.
Note: Use of static infra-red pyrometers is an inaccurate method to monitor tire temps.
Chassis Setup Recommendations
For optimum performance the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires require about 3 degrees of camber. There will be a trade off in maximum performance to maximize wear. Generally, 1/2 degrees less than optimum will result in the best compromise for wear and speed. Less than 2.5 degrees can result in excessive wear on the shoulder junction.
The Hoosier tires typically offer better performance with spring/shock rates higher than previous brands you may have run.
