stuart_w

Any one running Yokohama AO48 tires on warm dry days at the track. What do you find the optimal tyre pressures to be. I have been running at 34 all round on soft sway bar settings and high negative camber, but (there is always a but) the tyres give no warning and my baby just bites me and next think I know I am facing the wrong way, scary. The tyres are brand new so please dont tell me to get MPSC.

Nordschleife

Stewart

What are your temperatures across the tyre?

And have you both front and rear ARB on softest?

Finally, how much of this is the tyre and how much is your lack of familiarity with what happens when this tyre lets go? In general, the better the tyre, the less fuss it makes before it lets go.

From a reference point of view, its never that warm in NZ and unless you are on the East Coast and the Norwester is blowing, humidity is not that low. Shall we describe your weather conditions as pleasantly balmy?

Hope you are following the footie.

R+C

stuart_w

I will try to answer some of your questions. One, I have no idea what the temperature of the tyre is. Should I know and if so what would I use that info for? Two: you are very perceptive about the car. It was my first time on the track with the newly acquired GT3 and so different (read scary) to my old 996 C2. This car is much more exciting (read scary again). I was trying to keep a 996 Turbo at Bay and I might have gone into the corner (a hairpin) a little hot and got it all wrong (twice). Three: I guess you are familiar with NZ and so you will know that I am on the west costs very near to Manfeild race track in Palmerston North where spring is here and it was a mild 17 degrees celcius. and last I am about to go right now and watch the all blacks kick some Portuguese ****. Watch for an all blacks v South Africa final.
Thanks for the help so far and yes all settings on soft.

Nordschleife

Stuart

First of all, make sure the suspension is set up properly -

these settings are a good starting point, especially as you aren't going to do 280kph on SH1

Front axle:
Camber: -2.5º
Max camber difference, left/right: 5'

Toe total: +5'
Toe difference at 20° lock: -1°20' +/- 30'

Caster: 8° +/- 30'
Max caster difference, left/right: 30'

Front height: 115mm
ARB – 1 from hard

Rear axle:
Toe total: 35’ +/- 2'
Max toe difference, left/right: 5'

Camber: -2.3° +/- 5'
Max camber difference, left/right: 10'

Rear height: 128mm
ARB – 1 from hard

I think Chris A's mechanic is still working around Palmie, he might be a good person to talk to, or Chris himself as to the best people to use to do an initial alignment. Failing that, is Mike Hourigan still in Wellington, he knows everybody.

It is vitally important that you keep a worksheet of all changes that you make to the car set up.

Systematic use of a pyrometer is vital to getting the best out of your tyres. In the FAQ on this site there is a great explanation of how to use one to figure out what is happening and what to do next. So I won't repeat something that is well explained.

My French foottie mates are pissing themselves, they were hoping for a final against the ABs.

If only the Europeans really knew what the Haka is referring to (lol)

R+C

ron_dargenio

At an absolute minimum, have the alignment checked, the rear toe is a big issue on these cars. Beyond that, you want to think about getting rear toe links to keep the proper toe settings intact during hard driving. Do a search on alignment; there is a ton of info on the subject in this forum.