How long can you expect the engine, and other vital parts, to last in a GT3 that is DE tracked in the top run group, say 20 days a year. Is it like a Cup car, measured in hours, or...?

 

The GT3 is still a street car, although with a heavy track orientation.

The engine is NOT measured in hours. With the track usage you mention, I would expect nothing unusual or expensive required to keep it performing in top spec.

 

I would say one type 2 overrev ought to do it

 

Which means what in years,etc.? I lost my regular 996 engine due to a coolant leak which totally destroyed the engine, so I'm gun shy. As I understand it GT3 motors are better, but quantify "better" if you can. Thanks.

 

I didn't see the over rev post before my last post. Hope my question makes sense.
Is a type 2 over rev, throwing it into second from 4th at 100 mph? Luckily I haven't experimented with that enough to know .

 

yeah, the GT3 motor has a rev limiter to protect engine from a missed upshift but one of the first things you are taught driving on track is not to compression brake (your throw it into second from 4th at 100 scenario) you could possibly shift from third to second trying to get to 4th and pop the clutch and goodbye....physically increasing rpm's beyond redline can damage internals beyond repair...other than that, the engine is based on race proven parts, is dry sump, with excellent oiling even under g loads and is relatively bullet proof...I have run it hard in 110 degree temps (higher on the track) with no cooling issues...I think it's a great motor...

 

Why just one?

You are never gonna miss the change and go 4th to 2nd..

You could go 5th to 2nd.. which would be interesting!!

This is more likely to happen if the cables on the gearshift are stretched, and you have to fight to change gear. (get adjustment).

You can get a type 2 check done at any OPC, but better of getting a tuner to lap top check.. they can be deleted.

TBH if it's gonna pop it will pop, and you will surely know about it.

IMO
Rob

 

Type 2 overrevs can be deleted?! worrysome to those buying used.

 

An OPC won't delete them, as they would be used in evidence in potential warranty claim.

If I were buying a used OPC car, would have them perform a Type 2 check, in front of me.. before I bought car. Takes mins.. and if they refuse, then question why.? The check would show exact RPM high, and exact mileage etc.

But as I said if it does not pop there and then, you are prob ok.
Keep the oil fresh.

Rob

 

Your 996 motor is on the weak side of the scale while the GT3 motor is on the very strong side of the scale. You can pretty much beat the life out of them and expect a longer service life from them than from most other Porsche motors. In other words, you have very little to worry about with these cars as they are designed to run hard on the track.

 

Regular 996 has POS wet sump Boxster engine, cough, M96, cough.

GT2/3 and Turbo have the real dry sump blocks from the M64 days. Some earlier Turbo blocks have M64 stamps actually.

Anyway, the point being that the two blocks are nothing alike, and that the reliability problems of the M96 is because that engine is junk and a $$ making machine for Porsche. You can guess how much Porsche is saving by sticking it to the regular 911 owners by checking the prices of GT2/3 Turbo motors versus the M96 motors.

 

Should go 200-300k miles for sure. Bulletproof is a good statement, would not even worry so much about the overrev's mentioned here...

 

All engine have a time limit... the difference with a strict race engine is that it spends all it's time at high rpm creating more stress...on a street engine the amount of time spent at high rpm is reduced.

Higher compression and upper rpm's put high loads on a engine... engines in the rotating assembly use bearings which will wear out with time and load..there is also the rings that get worked.. then you have the cylinder heads, valve seats, springs, valves, locks, guides..cam bearings..and there is more.

What you do with a rebuild is prevent a bearing from spinning causing a rod to go threw your block or damage the crank, a valve from dropping, rebuilding is preventive maitenence.

Porsche is just expensive, general parts cost allot of money. During the rebuild the engine builder will check everything, clearences and replace wear items to make sure there is no major disasters waiting around the corner.

 

Here is my discussion of this very topic with Joel Reiser(tech editor PCA Panorama 996) 9/05
http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.asp?id={276B7F04-C007-4A89-9EE3-94054B71FDD7}

 

tough words