Important Brake Lessons Learned
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
NJ, I tried to weigh them for you before I put them on due to all of your posts in the past about weight control. I figured you'd want to know. Turned out the wifey tossed the scale during out recent move. Sorry. Actually though, now that I think of it, I ordered new caliper bolts that haven't arrived yet so I might have another opportunity to weigh them.
Same 1100 price I got. Check out HMSmotorsports who might be even cheaper (nice to work with as well).
From my understanding of the PFC rotor. These are true floaters with a patented system of attachment. Close up inspection reveals that they're a work of art. Hate to start grinding on them...well not really.
Same 1100 price I got. Check out HMSmotorsports who might be even cheaper (nice to work with as well).
From my understanding of the PFC rotor. These are true floaters with a patented system of attachment. Close up inspection reveals that they're a work of art. Hate to start grinding on them...well not really.
#17
Rennlist Member
If we have enough interest in these rotors and pads I can get a group buy going for the Rennlisters on here. I don't know what the savings will be at this point but I would guess somewhere close to 10%-15% off the retail price. Let me know if we have interest in this and I will look into it more.
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
Just a quick pre-track update. The 01 pads arrived and installed as advertised (no surprise) and I went out and used a local hwy loop to bed them in...
I already notice three things. No vibration whatsoever (seems like I had a bit with my OEM rotors with RS19s), Dust (seems like more of it), and they seemed very "grippy" with alot of bite (more than I recall with the RS19s)
The track weekend should be fun... report to follow.
I already notice three things. No vibration whatsoever (seems like I had a bit with my OEM rotors with RS19s), Dust (seems like more of it), and they seemed very "grippy" with alot of bite (more than I recall with the RS19s)
The track weekend should be fun... report to follow.
#24
Pro
Thread Starter
A floating rotor has two pieces. A hub that bolts the whole apparatus to the wheel carrying structure and a disk that is clamped by the brake pads. "Floating" refers to the fact that the disk and hub are not rigidly connected but they are connected by devices that allow rotational forces to be transmitted to the hub. Some styles rattle because of this floating design.
Floating rotors result in less unsprung weight because the hub is generally made of lighter material than the disk. The hub is also somewhat isolated from the disk and transmits less heat to the wheel carrying structures, bearings, calipers, etc. The disk is also free to "shift" a bit as needed and can be made of higher quality material for less cost than would be required if the entire structure were composed of the same. When it comes time to replace the disk, the hats can be reused and, hopefully, result in a savings on consumable costs.
Hope that helps.
Floating rotors result in less unsprung weight because the hub is generally made of lighter material than the disk. The hub is also somewhat isolated from the disk and transmits less heat to the wheel carrying structures, bearings, calipers, etc. The disk is also free to "shift" a bit as needed and can be made of higher quality material for less cost than would be required if the entire structure were composed of the same. When it comes time to replace the disk, the hats can be reused and, hopefully, result in a savings on consumable costs.
Hope that helps.
#25
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Weight is one thing and a large positive as Jim points out, but the "float" of this style of rotor needs to be concentrated on a tad more by continuing Jims thoughts with: The two piece design is allowing the natural expansion of the hot rotors not to be hindered by the direct attachment of a hub, therefore reducing - if not eliminating - the chance of rotor warpage. Additionally, the float allows for some built in runout protection of said rotor - so that if they did have minor pad transfer or warpage -they would not transfer the degree of shimmy or shake into the brake system that a standard 1 piece rotor may.
Kinda cool.
Kinda cool.
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
The dealer may or may not do it but it is VERY simple to do yourself. There are ample web resources, including the DIY here on rennlist, with full picture support on how to change your pads and rotors. I think rennforums has good info as well.
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
Hey Cos,
Still running the stock rear rotors but the front rotors are PFC direct drive and the pads are 01s all the way around. GREAT system, even on the street with cold components.
I was writing PFC today to get information on when the front discs need changing, how long the hats last, and checking on rear rotor availability. I imagine the stock rear rotors will wear out this year and I'll replace them with the PFC rotors when they do.
Still running the stock rear rotors but the front rotors are PFC direct drive and the pads are 01s all the way around. GREAT system, even on the street with cold components.
I was writing PFC today to get information on when the front discs need changing, how long the hats last, and checking on rear rotor availability. I imagine the stock rear rotors will wear out this year and I'll replace them with the PFC rotors when they do.
#30
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Jim H.
I was writing PFC today to get information on when the front discs need changing, how long the hats last, and checking on rear rotor availability.