nmex

OK I know is posted all over but here is the difference.

My car know has full solid monoballs, camber plates ( rear) , Motons Club Sport and I only track the car. Here and there on a good nice day that I want to make some noise on the street I take the car out of the garage.

week before Christmas I Switch to RA-1's ( from MCS) and what a difference. The car right know is set very aggressive. I think I have -3.5 camber front and rear. Or at list that is what I been told.

The car corners like so flat is not funny : ) but I know that this set up is very aggressive. Need help with some numbers because I am getting the car corner balance and aline before my DE saga starts this year.

One more thing I am running RA-1 245-40-18 FT and 335-30-18 R ( and yes they dont rub at all!!!!!!)

So here is my story and need some help from some good Club racers.

va122

No rubbing huh? Did you shave them?

nmex

no not at all The wheels are Fikse custom made. Still can't figure out the offsets. As for the Tire the Toyo 335 is actually 1/8 narrower than the stander 315 MCS that I was running.

NJ-GT

I ran 275/35R18 and 335/30R18 RA1 back in 2005, no rubbing either. I also ran 315 MPSC, and they are wider than the 335 RA1. These days I run 285/30R18 and 335/30R18 Hoosiers, the Hoosier is 1.2" wider than the RA1.

nmex,

Once you make the change to monoball bearings and solid bushings on all the control arms, the tires last almost twice as long. I have 9,000 miles with a set of PS2, and the rear tires are not even half way worn. My car used to kill tires very often, I didn't cord any tires last year, I used to cord MPSC, RA1, Hoosier in record times, thanks to the messy rear toe out of specs.

I run -2.8 squared for Hoosiers A6. This is the optimum setting on my car. Fine tuned between -2.0 and -3.5, until I got it right (pyrometer and Jon Groom Racing advice). Toe-in rear 0.25 degrees per side (4mm total), Toe-out Front 0.125 degrees per side (2mm total).

Use -2.5 to -3.0 and record the readings from the pyrometer. Remember that each tire requires different camber settings. My rear RA1 didn't like more than -2.0, but I had the old suspension.

nmex

NJ-

you nail it. That is my problem right know. I am eating the inside of the tires in the back like there is no end to it. I think I have -3.5 and I think that is the killer Rear looks like is just to mcuh camber I just found my old settings adn the Toe rear .22 Rear. Think I just need to back up the Camber.


Front I have very diferent but I love it right know Here are my settings

-2.2 Caber Front Cross Camber 0
7.6 Caster Cross Caster .1
.01 Toe Cross SAI 0
Total Toe 0

So any more input I will apreciated since the car is going to the shop Monday

Thanks

Pbacon

I am very satisfied with my latest settings, but I do not have monoballs yet. Just stock suspension with modified and adjustable rear toe links. I am running 2.5 degrees negative camber in front and 2.9 Degrees rear. 2mm each tire toe in for rear and 1 mm toe out in the front. Was much happier with turn in and rear stability in my last DE session at VIR. Also do not forget to dial in some rear wing. I am running Cup car splitters and max wing in the rear.

Modoc

[QUOTE=Pbacon]I am very satisfied with my latest settings, but I do not have monoballs yet. Just stock suspension with modified and adjustable rear toe links. I am running 2.5 degrees negative camber in front and 2.9 Degrees rear. 2mm each tire toe in for rear and 1 mm toe out in the front. Was much happier with turn in and rear stability in my last DE session at VIR. Also do not forget to dial in some rear wing. I am running Cup car splitters and max wing in the rear.[/QUOTE


Are you using shims (8) or is there enough adjustment in your wing. I'm under the im pression that my 05 has no adjustment unless I use 4 degree or 8 degree shims.

10 GT3

NMEX,

You are probably running too much camber. MPSCs need the camber to work with soft sidewalls, RA-1s are very different. I would go with NJ-GT's suggestion and use a tire Pyrometer. It will tell you both if your camber is correct and if your tire pressures are right. It has been a huge help for me.

nmex

Modoc. I have an 05 as well and no you need the shims. I am running 8 all the time

nmex

I will I am going with his settings and will carrry the pyro meeter. Unfortuantely I am missing the fiorst DE of the year due to Business trip but I will be at TWS end of Feb. Can wait high speed testing on new tires and set up

10 GT3

Antonio,

I think you have your events mixed up. The Lone Star DE at TWS is Feb. 10-11. The Maverick DE at MSR is the 24-25. I won't make TWS, but I will be at MSR with my Pyrometer (Longacre probe type) if you need it.

nmex

no I din't I will see you there I have one maybe you can show me how to use it properly.

FYI I will be attending the 2 evernts : D

nmex

let me add the first DE of the year for me IS Drivers Edge the first weekend of Feb at MSR creson but that is the one I am missing not the once from PCA. I am trying to make all the PCA events this year to see if I can start preing for Club racing next year

10 GT3

Some of us don't have to worry about making every PCA event to get our time in. Joining Eagle's Canyon in March and already have several members of MSR to go out with. Weather is now a bigger factor than opportunities. Don't like the cold: cold tires, track and driver. Doing MSR in Feb. and APR. Skipping the May club race/DE to avoid the mess like last year. TWS in MAR. Looking to go to Hallet in the spring and possibly a trip to run MSRH for the first time. Plan to run Eagle's Canyon once a month staring in April.