Do GT3's run toe-out at the rear? I've searched for specs, and they all seem to indicate a positive toe value for the rear. Not sure whether that means in or out.

Thanks,
-Juan

 

Typically you would run Toe IN at the rear and close to NEUTRAL Toe or OUT at the front. The Toe IN at the rear will help with straight line stability but the NEUTRAL to OUT settings in the front will aid in turn in compliance. It all becomes a game of trade-offs.

 

not unless you have a death wish!
juan, go see tony c. he knows 996's well.

i do zero toe up front. toe out would be very darty since you life in SF. you probably crash into transamerica bldg driving on montgomery.

 

toe-out at the rear + track day ==> armco, tire barrier, fence...

0.25 degrees toe-in per side has worked for me pretty good. Currently I run toe-out at the front (0.12 degrees per side), I get away with that thanks to the solid suspension bushings/monoball bearings. Easy car to drive everywhere compared to stock.

 

Juan, I remember you saying that your car was pulling under throttle... get the whole thing sorted out.

Enjoy the ride.

 

Exactly. If someone purposely set your car up that way they are an idiot. If it has slipped to that you need to get new links that won't move or you may end up in an ugly place.

 

Thanks for the replies. Actually my car has a half of a degree of total toe-in in the rear. I was just unclear about the convention used in the specs I read here.

I weighed and strung the car yesterday. Camber seems stock, 1 degree in front, about 1.9 in back. Front/rear total toe is about right, 0.1/0.5 degrees total toe-in, except that the right rear has about a quarter of a degree more toe-in than the left. Corner weights are off, maybe by as much as 100lbs.

I'm thinking it's the corner weights that are the likely problem, although the toe difference in the rear isn't great either, and I'm thinking that might indicate a problem with the suspension arms. The car had only 6Kmi, and would not appear to have been driven hard, so I wouldn't think anything is worn. I bought my car from a dealer with Porsche certification. Does warranty cover alignment and corner weight, and are service departments set up to do that, especially corner weights? That's not a typical adjustment that is made in street cars.

BTW, I know Tony C. He built the cage in my SM -- very nice fabrication work.

-Juan

 

 

technically yes, but not every dealer knows how to align. they can't get more than 1 deg for me up front on GT3.

for ME, your rear camber is too severe relative to front. or front is too little relative to back. probably pushes quite a bit.

 

Please do elaborate. I am running out to the garage to read my warranty manual. Can't imagine that alignment is a warranty item.

While I am sure they know how to align in the basic form, I would NEVER trust them to do a proper setup.

 

Is it too much to ask that a GT3 bought from a dealer drive straight upon delivery? Sorry, I'm just new to the fun and quirky world of the GT3.

-Juan

 

some friend of mine had dealer realign it.
my dealer also told me they would re align my car under warranty when they saw i have more than three deg on my cayman.

 

See if this helps.... ( Personal experience with settings..)

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-gt3-forum/275285-the-new-alignments-have-transformed-my-car.html

 

Track setup? I just find this so hard to believe. Maybe if you go in and complain of alignment settings not "holding" and they restore back to "stock" settings.

 

I'm curious, how do these setting compare to what one might find on a Cup car or GT3RSR set up for race conditions ?

Stephen