Any USER feedback on Toyos R888 ?
#61
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Interesting. Now here comes a newbie question:
Why do you guys run varying tire sizes?
The spec tires for the GT3 wheel are 235/295. What am I missing? Once this question is answered, I may be interested in your tires Doc2s!
Thanks,
-Blake
Why do you guys run varying tire sizes?
The spec tires for the GT3 wheel are 235/295. What am I missing? Once this question is answered, I may be interested in your tires Doc2s!
Thanks,
-Blake
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#62
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Tires are just like your shoes or pants. Nike's size 7 might be equal to Adidas's size 8.5 or New Balance's size 6. So, MPSC's 295s are more or less Toyo RA1's 305s. Some run small while some run true on sizes. Well, that's one of the reasons. The rest are just because some want their cars to have more grip, oversteer, understeer etc, depending on how they set up their stuff.
#64
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I know I know but that ain't gonna happen. I would have to part with my car and I'm not doing that
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#66
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I can offer a comparison of RA1s and MPSCs. MPSCs are very difficult to get up to temperature. Once they are there, they are significantly more gruppy that RA1s. However, the RA1s were good after the first lap, and lasted longer, both in the life of the tire, and in the stability of their grip. So, if you are spending 2-4 laps of a run group getting your tires up to temp, this is a significant consideration in time and money. I am going to try the R888s, as I've heard they are better.
#67
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#69
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Blake, I'd go with 245 on the front and 305 in the rear. As posted yesterday, I have 295 on right now, but I could easily go up one more size without a problem and get more rubber to the road for the rear
#70
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Blake,
I would not even hesitate to go to R888 over the MPSC for a number of reasons. First off, the MPSC take a while to warm up and where you live that could be a long time. The 888 are ready to go from the 1st lap. They do get a little greasy toward the end of the sessions, but you'll have to work with pressures on that.
The MPSC cost more and don't last as long and then tend to just "go" which I always hated.
I didn't like the R888 at first, but after scrubbing them in really good they are great tires. I haven't gone through a whole set yet, but it appears the same ratio of wear as other tires (rears are used up twice as fast as the fronts). I'm a big fan of the Nittos which have similar characteristics of the R888 including tire compound, the exception being that the Nittos did not get greasy like the R888 at the end of run sessions. Hope that helps.
I would not even hesitate to go to R888 over the MPSC for a number of reasons. First off, the MPSC take a while to warm up and where you live that could be a long time. The 888 are ready to go from the 1st lap. They do get a little greasy toward the end of the sessions, but you'll have to work with pressures on that.
The MPSC cost more and don't last as long and then tend to just "go" which I always hated.
I didn't like the R888 at first, but after scrubbing them in really good they are great tires. I haven't gone through a whole set yet, but it appears the same ratio of wear as other tires (rears are used up twice as fast as the fronts). I'm a big fan of the Nittos which have similar characteristics of the R888 including tire compound, the exception being that the Nittos did not get greasy like the R888 at the end of run sessions. Hope that helps.
How do you find the 888's in rain?
Specifically if using as a street and track tire?
I read on Toyo site that are prone to hydroplanning. But that may be more to cover themsheves.
#71
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I run 235/295 factory sizes and had to have my arch liners in the front moulded and fastened back to prevent rubbing. Not much room in the rear for bigger either unless you are running huge camber and very stiff suspension. I'd stick with OEM sizes to be honest. They work just fine.
#72
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888s are very good in the wet with a bit of heat in them, but of course not good at clearing standing water.
#73
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I run 235/295 factory sizes and had to have my arch liners in the front moulded and fastened back to prevent rubbing. Not much room in the rear for bigger either unless you are running huge camber and very stiff suspension. I'd stick with OEM sizes to be honest. They work just fine.
over 2.5 deg of camber
i run 255/315 R888, front only rubs at more than 1/2 full lock, rear has minor rub on fender lip.
#74
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I actually just had to replace my rears due to a radial gouge around the outer edge of the tread on one tyre. Happened when I went over a bump sideways (tyre may have rolled a bit?). Anyway just goes to show there isn't a lot of space there. I wouldn't be happy with rubbing you get as I drive mine on the road a fair bit.
#75
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I actually just had to replace my rears due to a radial gouge around the outer edge of the tread on one tyre. Happened when I went over a bump sideways (tyre may have rolled a bit?). Anyway just goes to show there isn't a lot of space there. I wouldn't be happy with rubbing you get as I drive mine on the road a fair bit.
for ME 315 does rub, but the rubbing is very small will not hurt my tires. BUT IT DOES RUB PAINT OF THE "INSIDE" OF FENDER LIP. we are talking minimal paint here and you will not see it unless you remove the wheel and stick your head INSIDE the wheel well and look away from the longitudinal centerline of your car. if you roll the fenders lips, no rubbing. but i didn't roll it.
now there's no reason you need 315 for street driven GT3. on a track car... well there are other places paint get chipped off that's more severe than the fender rubbing so i am not too worry about it.
my post was not to negate or doubt your post. when i was deciding b/c 315 and 305's i was told the 315 will not rub. but it does, unless you have very stiff springs. like dell's or motons, then i dont thik you get rubbing (rubbing is from compression of springs when the car drops to a lower turn). most ppl will never see this rub mark. but i do detail the car to the n'th degree so i saw it
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