Brake Fluid? How do I justify SRF???
#1
Brake Fluid? How do I justify SRF???
So, I am prepping the car for the upcoming track weekend and flushing out the factory brake fluid. I have been running ATE Super Blue in my 996C2 and have been very happy with it. But now that I am stepping up another notch with a car (GT3) that will probably see MORE track time than street time I am easily stumped on the choices now. Basically, it looks like the 3 choices are ATE Super Blue, Motul, or SRF.
Anyway, I need to justify one over the other and why in the world I should spend $75 for a liter of SRF?
Looks like they break down this way:
ATE Super Blue $10/L
Motul RBF600 $30/L (sold in .5L at $15/.5L)
Castrol SRF $75/L
My setup will be RS19's and Pilot Sport tires. I will NOT move to cups for at least a season or two till I learn the car and it's traction break points.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Experiences?
Thanks!
Anyway, I need to justify one over the other and why in the world I should spend $75 for a liter of SRF?
Looks like they break down this way:
ATE Super Blue $10/L
Motul RBF600 $30/L (sold in .5L at $15/.5L)
Castrol SRF $75/L
My setup will be RS19's and Pilot Sport tires. I will NOT move to cups for at least a season or two till I learn the car and it's traction break points.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Experiences?
Thanks!
#2
I can't answer your question, but would like to add one more as I hope to follow your lead next Spring...
Is it true that the brake fluid and clutch fluid share the same sump? If so, I would assume that I need to drain BOTH everytime I change fluids. With that said, is the clutch easy to drain?
Thanks,
-Blake
Is it true that the brake fluid and clutch fluid share the same sump? If so, I would assume that I need to drain BOTH everytime I change fluids. With that said, is the clutch easy to drain?
Thanks,
-Blake
#3
why bother? I have been running stock fluid for 15,000 km with RS19's and cups with nary a problem - save your money for rotors!
If you must modify the fluid PAG gave you, I suggest using what the factory backed teams run (with slicks, more hp,e etc) - you can see I cannot see the point making a move.
I have never lost the fluid since you will be bleeding it every rotor change
All your speed will come from not using your brakes.
If you must modify the fluid PAG gave you, I suggest using what the factory backed teams run (with slicks, more hp,e etc) - you can see I cannot see the point making a move.
I have never lost the fluid since you will be bleeding it every rotor change
All your speed will come from not using your brakes.
#4
season or two.... right :-)
I said the same thing. lasted a couple of days and I ordered my wheels. It did end up about 3-4 months before I was on the Hoosiers.
Get a set of track wheels and tires you will not have any regrets
I said the same thing. lasted a couple of days and I ordered my wheels. It did end up about 3-4 months before I was on the Hoosiers.
Get a set of track wheels and tires you will not have any regrets
#5
LastGT3.......Have you ever had a problem with cooking your fluid on the track? Do you know what the boiling point is for the stock fluid? I found that the stock fluid boiled rather quickly on me in my 996C2 and had to immediately move to a better fluid to accomodate the higher brake temps.
#6
Knowing that at the end of the frontstaight on the VIR full course 20 minutes into the last session of the day and that deer jumps out in front of you that with RS-19s and SRF you are going to be throwing your best at it is priceless!
Seriously, on Sat. at one of the member days a friend's highly modified E-46 M3 had one jump directly in front of his father who was driving the car. All are o.k. except for the M3!
I run SRF, RS-14s and cup rotors on my GT3. Brakes are the most essential safety item I have followed by seats, DAS bar and harnesses.
As has been explained to me in the past. It is about the cheapest insurance out there! Run the best and don't look back, except at your bud whose brake pedal is starting to feel mushy!
Seriously, on Sat. at one of the member days a friend's highly modified E-46 M3 had one jump directly in front of his father who was driving the car. All are o.k. except for the M3!
I run SRF, RS-14s and cup rotors on my GT3. Brakes are the most essential safety item I have followed by seats, DAS bar and harnesses.
As has been explained to me in the past. It is about the cheapest insurance out there! Run the best and don't look back, except at your bud whose brake pedal is starting to feel mushy!
#7
Totally understand about the straights (both coming out of oak tree as well as the front) where speeds can easily reach 160 the last thing you want is to cook your fluid.
Damn! I cannot imagine the carnage of running into a deer at that speed. Would hope a local caution (or even red) would be thrown if caught in time.
Damn! I cannot imagine the carnage of running into a deer at that speed. Would hope a local caution (or even red) would be thrown if caught in time.
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#8
I was using Motul and never had an issue with it, even when the temps were triple digit at the track.
A few months ago, I switched to SRF after buying some from a guy on eBay for $50/L shipped. With the small price difference to Motul, I figured why skimp since everything else on the car is first rate and costs a fortune...
A few months ago, I switched to SRF after buying some from a guy on eBay for $50/L shipped. With the small price difference to Motul, I figured why skimp since everything else on the car is first rate and costs a fortune...
#9
Holger, you ain't kidding about the costs. This is getting to be very expensive starting all over at square one with the new car.
I am thinking SRF is the way to go. I just hate to spend $75 a liter on this stuff. And truth to the rumor of not having to bleed the SRF like the other fluids?
I am thinking SRF is the way to go. I just hate to spend $75 a liter on this stuff. And truth to the rumor of not having to bleed the SRF like the other fluids?
#12
Originally Posted by LVDell
I am thinking SRF is the way to go. I just hate to spend $75 a liter on this stuff. And truth to the rumor of not having to bleed the SRF like the other fluids?
I've had excellent results running SRF; won't run anything else.....wouldn't care if it was $150/can.
#14
I am switching to SRF from Super Blue (or at least I will try for several DE's). After about 5 days of DE's my brake felt a little soft which did not inspire confidence. Of course, this all depends on the track, amount of time and the braking style so I am sure individual results will very.
The big question is how much will this extend the need not to bleed the brakes?? I don't mind spending more money if that means I can bleed my brakes less.
The big question is how much will this extend the need not to bleed the brakes?? I don't mind spending more money if that means I can bleed my brakes less.
#15
I don't think the SRF is worth the money when you are doing DE's Super Blue or Motul will work fine. We use the Motul in our racecars with no problems ever in them.
I still have the stock fluid in my GT3 and with over 1000 track miles on it I have never experienced any fade of the brakes at all. And this includes one weekend where I shared the car with 2 of my buddies and it saw lots of duty that weekend. No fade at all.
When the motul will work fine at 2/5 the cost and it is changed once a year, there is no reason to use the SRF unless you like to spend your money. If that is the case then pass some this way ;-)
I still have the stock fluid in my GT3 and with over 1000 track miles on it I have never experienced any fade of the brakes at all. And this includes one weekend where I shared the car with 2 of my buddies and it saw lots of duty that weekend. No fade at all.
When the motul will work fine at 2/5 the cost and it is changed once a year, there is no reason to use the SRF unless you like to spend your money. If that is the case then pass some this way ;-)