Ceramic Brakes
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Durham, NC (Go Duke!)
Posts: 1,184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A bit of a hijack, but what if you were looking at used GT3s. Some with ceramics are priced te same as those with steel, and let's assume a 2005 GT3. Would you shy away from teh car with the ceramics, or just swap out when necessary.
And what is the cost of switching from ceramic to another kit, vs. just replacing regular rotors on a 2005 GT3?
Sorry to hijack.
And what is the cost of switching from ceramic to another kit, vs. just replacing regular rotors on a 2005 GT3?
Sorry to hijack.
#18
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by DanH
I wouldn't agree with that, but each to their own etc!
I love these things though. . . drove the two 997S's back to back and two 997's (non-S) back to back. No comparison. Like brakes, I guess some can't appreciate the difference b/t a Big Mac and Kobe beef tenderloin. (Just kidding
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
#19
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
lol Jeff.
I find my alcons with RS29s feel pretty similar to the ceramics. i.e. no bite when cold & quite grabby (not to all tastes), they even squeal just like the ceramics! I confess I can't feel the difference in ride/steering weight/acceleration etc.
I find my alcons with RS29s feel pretty similar to the ceramics. i.e. no bite when cold & quite grabby (not to all tastes), they even squeal just like the ceramics! I confess I can't feel the difference in ride/steering weight/acceleration etc.
#20
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In all seriousness, the differences I felt are in pedal feel and bite. Not so much in dynamics or liveliness of the car, as I think any differences there are subtle enough that I couldn't tell in a few test drives.
At least on my car, these Gen II PCCBs are *dead* silent and have inital bite (hot and cold) that'll pull your eyeballs from your skull. Sort of a combination of:
(i) a good track pad hand-of-god stopping power hot
(ii) awesome intial bite cold
(ii) silence
(iii) dust free, well maybe 90%
and the GT3 brakes are *bigger* than on my car.
On the downside, after a car wash or during a super heavy rain, they have zero initial bite. So, if driving in a monsoon, you have to lightly brush over the brake pedal to dry them. Aside from car washes, I've only had this problem happen once, during a horrific rainstorm exceeding 2"/hour with lots of standing water.
If the RS gets them standard, I'll buy the RS over the GT3, despite the car being neutered for the US market.
At least on my car, these Gen II PCCBs are *dead* silent and have inital bite (hot and cold) that'll pull your eyeballs from your skull. Sort of a combination of:
(i) a good track pad hand-of-god stopping power hot
(ii) awesome intial bite cold
(ii) silence
(iii) dust free, well maybe 90%
and the GT3 brakes are *bigger* than on my car.
On the downside, after a car wash or during a super heavy rain, they have zero initial bite. So, if driving in a monsoon, you have to lightly brush over the brake pedal to dry them. Aside from car washes, I've only had this problem happen once, during a horrific rainstorm exceeding 2"/hour with lots of standing water.
If the RS gets them standard, I'll buy the RS over the GT3, despite the car being neutered for the US market.
#24
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
roberga how do you bed new pads?
![evilgrin](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/evilgrin.gif)
Bedding in my pars. (There is a suggestion of Pagid not to bed in new pads and rotors.) You should always bed in new pads on old rotors and new Rotors on old pads. I have followed these with several cars an excellent results all the time.
As for the PCCB I put the pads in I speed up the car to 65mph on the street. And apply pressure till a full stop. I did this 4 times in a row. (This will heat up the pads and the rotors even.)
Shortly after this took the car on the free way (and with the help of my V1 radar) speed up the car to 75+ and did some hard braking all the way down to 35mph or so. I did this 4 times as well.
After this let the car cool over night.
Next day the car was out on the track at MSR Houston. High speed and hard braking.
8500 miles after the pads have still 60% life and the rotors look very good. No cracks at all.
On track days the first 2 laps I try to be easy on the brakes. No hard braking and more like a progressive brake. All of this to heat evenly the rotors. After that MOVE AND GET OUT OF MY WAY
![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
Also after every other track event I blow all the extra material out of the rotors with an air compressor (Use a protective mask you don’t want to breath all that stuff).
My .02 to you guys from my personal experience with my PCCB"s
PS
The day that they start looking bad I will start saving for a new set they worth to me every single penny on the track.
#25
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by frayed
In all seriousness, the differences I felt are in pedal feel and bite. Not so much in dynamics or liveliness of the car, as I think any differences there are subtle enough that I couldn't tell in a few test drives.
At least on my car, these Gen II PCCBs are *dead* silent and have inital bite (hot and cold) that'll pull your eyeballs from your skull. Sort of a combination of:
(i) a good track pad hand-of-god stopping power hot
(ii) awesome intial bite cold
(ii) silence
(iii) dust free, well maybe 90%
and the GT3 brakes are *bigger* than on my car.
On the downside, after a car wash or during a super heavy rain, they have zero initial bite. So, if driving in a monsoon, you have to lightly brush over the brake pedal to dry them. Aside from car washes, I've only had this problem happen once, during a horrific rainstorm exceeding 2"/hour with lots of standing water.
If the RS gets them standard, I'll buy the RS over the GT3, despite the car being neutered for the US market.
At least on my car, these Gen II PCCBs are *dead* silent and have inital bite (hot and cold) that'll pull your eyeballs from your skull. Sort of a combination of:
(i) a good track pad hand-of-god stopping power hot
(ii) awesome intial bite cold
(ii) silence
(iii) dust free, well maybe 90%
and the GT3 brakes are *bigger* than on my car.
On the downside, after a car wash or during a super heavy rain, they have zero initial bite. So, if driving in a monsoon, you have to lightly brush over the brake pedal to dry them. Aside from car washes, I've only had this problem happen once, during a horrific rainstorm exceeding 2"/hour with lots of standing water.
If the RS gets them standard, I'll buy the RS over the GT3, despite the car being neutered for the US market.
My ceramics didn't fall apart, although they were showing signs of wear. I just got paranoid hence they are in a box now
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#27
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by roberga
that is interesting, the pagit rep would not sell me pads.
#28
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My PCCB Gen-I with Black sport pads from Porsche are entirely quiet. My steel rotors with RS19 are noisy, but only used for track days.
There is something really weird with PCCB. Used PCBB rotors are expensive, new PCCB rotors are more expensive.
Used market prices for GT3s with or without PCCB are the same.
Converting a GT3 PCCB into steel brakes is just a matter of using 996GT3Cup front rotors and 997GT3Cup rear rotors. $1,000 for parts and you keep your PCCB rotors.
There is something really weird with PCCB. Used PCBB rotors are expensive, new PCCB rotors are more expensive.
Used market prices for GT3s with or without PCCB are the same.
Converting a GT3 PCCB into steel brakes is just a matter of using 996GT3Cup front rotors and 997GT3Cup rear rotors. $1,000 for parts and you keep your PCCB rotors.
#30
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
One more thing. 996 GT3 running PCCB yellow calipers use 350mm rotors front and rear (steel or PCCB). An originally equipped steel brakes GT3 (red calipers) uses a 330mm rear rotor. There is better brake balance using the rear 350mm rotor.