boqueron

I have been told that one of the methods to achieve 2,5º front Neg camber is to swap the struts ( left to right and viceversa). I have told this to my Porsche shop and they do not seem very confident about it..

Could any of you help and explain how is this to be done ? Any known issue after doing it ?

Thanks in advance for your advise..

NJ-GT

If you swap the front strut mounts (left/right) you will get the same camber you have right now. The parts are identical.

However, if you remove the studs from the camber plates, and place them on the other three holes available, you will get -2.0 to -3.0 negative camber, but caster will be decreased to the 7 degrees range.

viperbob

You do not swap the struts to gain more negative camber. If you look at the top of the struts on each side, they are designed to be turned at the top and then you will automatically gain more negative camber. Very simple to reposition without fully removing. Just reposition the studs

No issue at all doing this.

boqueron

What will be the consequence of reducing caster to the 7º range ?

Holger B

I had this done just last week by the dealer. The tech told me the minimum camber on my car is now -2.5. It's so simple to do that they didn't charge me anything more than the price of the alignment.

Mike K.

I had this done as well. Problem is now I can't get less than -3.34 deg. on one side ?? Caster is 8.6

ArcticFox

Is your ride height lowered? I can get a min of about 2.64 on the dirvers side. My mechanic seems to think this is so because the car is lower than stock. Just a thought...Tim

viperbob

Ahhh yes, but did you know about this to fix the caster issue?

boqueron

Sorry, what is it ? How do you fix the caster issue then ?

boqueron

Viperbob,

Does this mean that the caster will allways be altered ?

NJ-GT

Yes, Bob and I tried it already. As soon as you use the eccentric hole, the tire moves so much forward that it rubs pretty bad against the fender liner. Indeed, a lock to lock steering turn is impossible.

I put 11mm on camber shims (just for testing) and the steering won't turn beyond 3/4 of a turn after getting stopped by the fender liner.

The stock camber plates are designed to reduce caster when switched to the other 3 holes.

The two best solutions by far are:

1) What Bob R. has suggested and done to his car. Drill the stock holes to gain more negative camber.

2) Aftermarket Camber Plater. I went with Manthey Racing units, so the caster is increased by 1 degree over stock, while giving between -2.5 and -3.5 degrees camber at the 115mm Euro stock ride height.

A lowered car will gain on both camber and caster. I had my car on the alignment rack about two years ago. We did the alignment reading, then rotated the stock camber plates, and got the car re-aligned. My caster readings went down by from 9.2 to 7.8 degrees.

When caster is increased on this car, straight line stability is increased, and understeer is decreased.

On the GT3 Cup, there is more space in front of the front wheels. This allows the use of the eccentric hole on the two piece control arm, or plenty of shims.

Z06

My friend with the GT2 just got the Motons installed and replaced the front upper mono-ball shocks mounts..he can not get more than 1.8 camber,

Does your second option work here as well? I am not sure how this works

on my car i extended the top holes and swaped the lower control arms..added shims and rotated the tops..wow

what do you recommend for the GT2

boqueron

NJ-GT,

Does the increased neg. camber decrease understeer ? If so, does it compensate the understeer created by the decreased caster ? Is the straight line decrease noticeable ?

In short: Does the caster issue compensates the benefits of achieving more camber by turning the struts ? Should I forget this solution ?

NJ-GT

I would follow an expert Porsche tuner advice. That's why I went with Manthey Racing units, because they have tested these street cars a lot.

Even though I achieved my desired -2.5 front negative camber by rotating the tops, I still noticed something wrong (steering wheel too busy). Most of the people just accepts the car like that, but if it could be fixed I was going to do it. A short chat with Steve @ JZMactech in UK (Manthey Racing Dealer) did it.

NJ-GT

if you swapped your stock front control arms (L/R) to use the eccentric hole, then you have moved the front wheels back. Then adding shims will move the wheels forward while gaining camber. Rotating the strut tops reduces the angle on the strut (reduces caster) and gives plenty of negative camber. The stock camber holes have about 1 degree range for camber, so they have to be twice as long to allow a 2 degrees range.

The Manthey camber plater work on both the GT2 and GT3. Pretty simple install, no need for drill, shims, etc. The Left and Right plates are not the same parts. No rubber boots on these.

The Cross-JIC camber plates allow for an extra 1.5 degrees adjustment in addition to the stock 1 degree range, but I 've no idea on their caster setting and it is not adjustable on the plates.

By the way, your friend might have changed the rear upper strut mounts to monoball. The front ones are monoball already.