Preventative maintenance on a GT3 track car
11-07-2005, 09:25 AM
#16
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Re: wheel bearings. In my experience you don't need to do all of them at once in most cases. The front left will take the biggest beating and most of the time it will grind and make a lot of noise before it causes any damage. The heating method Bob recommends is best, but you can heat the upright while it is on your car and use the tool mentioned above.
I would also check the torgue on the hub bolts as if they get loose you will damage your hub or much worse....
I would also check the torgue on the hub bolts as if they get loose you will damage your hub or much worse....
11-08-2005, 07:30 PM
#18
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One reason that wheel bearings should be removed by use of differential CTE (factory method) is to prevent damage from galling and "scraping" to the bores of the expesnive carriers. Same is true for insertion ....
The kitchen oven works just fine
The kitchen oven works just fine
11-09-2005, 09:07 AM
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Hi jack. Yes new to Spring Hill about 6 weeks ago. I will be at Daytona on Saturday for the Historics. Need to stay home SUnday with the wife as she travels a lot. I plan to contact Chin and see if he needs any instructors (what is his website again?) for next weekend. I assume you plan to attend these events. Give me a call next time you come to Spring Hill.
11-09-2005, 01:35 PM
#23
I thought I would chime in. I have done my front wheel bearings which later turned out to be cupped fronts from a severly improper conrner balance gone wrong. I pulled the uprights and farmed them to my local shop. I had them back in less than an hour and cost what 40 bucks if that? The only pickle was that you need a pretty heafty torque wrench, set to like 325 ft lbs. or thereabouts. In any event I never ended up having to do it myself as they did it for me ( I supplied the wrench). I have a set for the rears and probably will be doing those maybe over my winter break.
I think my shocks might have been hurt from the improper corner balance which lowered the front wayyyy too much causing the springs to fully compress in 3"!!!! - Does anyone have any experiece with pss9's revalving or checking? Cost? Possible to revalve to ruf settings? I hear that's the ticket? Thanks Sean
( I supplied the wrench). I have a set for the rears and probably will be doing those maybe over my winter break. I think my shocks might have been hurt from the improper corner balance which lowered the front wayyyy too much causing the springs to fully compress in 3"!!!! - Does anyone have any experiece with pss9's revalving or checking? Cost? Possible to revalve to ruf settings? I hear that's the ticket? Thanks Sean
11-09-2005, 01:42 PM
#24
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Hey,
SPR, I have a set of GT3 shocks, struts and springs that might be for sale.
I am 5 miles from you.
Let me know.
Ok, you know that Krups/Bilstein is located right here near Mira Mar. You can walk in and have them do a re-valve. I have done this a few times with other cars.
SPR, I have a set of GT3 shocks, struts and springs that might be for sale.
I am 5 miles from you.
Let me know.
Ok, you know that Krups/Bilstein is located right here near Mira Mar. You can walk in and have them do a re-valve. I have done this a few times with other cars.
11-09-2005, 01:50 PM
#25
Interesting. How much would it cost for the revalve and or how long is the turn around? The problem is that I would do the work at my father's house as he has a lift, and the probably ship them to them, which is kinda lame as I do live so close but... I wonder if it would be possible to drive over there and have them diag. the shocks on the car, probably very difficult. Also does it matter if they're the euro ones? I remember being at the LA auto show and spoke to the bilstein people before I got the pss9's and they said many bad things about the eur versoins and that I would not be able to "bolt a tire up"
11-09-2005, 02:33 PM
#27
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ok, back on topic.
So Bob, we did the rear arms and bushings, is there anything like that upfront that I can do? Where else can I remove rubber from the car. Austin sent me front monoballs and then I discovered the car comes with them from the factory.
Anything else I can replace that will help?
So Bob, we did the rear arms and bushings, is there anything like that upfront that I can do? Where else can I remove rubber from the car. Austin sent me front monoballs and then I discovered the car comes with them from the factory.
Anything else I can replace that will help?
11-09-2005, 04:03 PM
#28
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cos,
GT3 has monoballs from factory all around.
however, the rear one's aren't true monoballs. you might get the expensive stuff from motorsport or TRG (rear). front is fine.
GT3 has monoballs from factory all around.
however, the rear one's aren't true monoballs. you might get the expensive stuff from motorsport or TRG (rear). front is fine.
11-09-2005, 05:35 PM
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I know what you can replace and shave 3-4 seconds off your times. The driver Sorry Cos, had to do it.
You have done a lot already Cos. There is not much left that is going to give you the big reduction in times. Yes you can change a sway bar bushing, or do some more ERP parts. If you really want to change out the shocks to Motons. That will help even over your new suspension. Run with race slicks instead of DOTs. Good for 1-2 secs a lap. Other than starting to strip out your car to save weight, you have done about what you can do. You could reprogram the ECU for 100 octane only. You can always regear the transaxle for a 165 max MPH. Take a ride in Arnaud's car. All pretty drastic and some expensive options.
You have already done the easy stuff (like SMF is easy)...
Sorry Cos, had to do it.You have done a lot already Cos. There is not much left that is going to give you the big reduction in times. Yes you can change a sway bar bushing, or do some more ERP parts. If you really want to change out the shocks to Motons. That will help even over your new suspension. Run with race slicks instead of DOTs. Good for 1-2 secs a lap. Other than starting to strip out your car to save weight, you have done about what you can do. You could reprogram the ECU for 100 octane only. You can always regear the transaxle for a 165 max MPH. Take a ride in Arnaud's car.
All pretty drastic and some expensive options.You have already done the easy stuff (like SMF is easy)...
