NJ-GT

My car was aligned 3 weeks ago. I just drove 1200 street miles, 24 autocross laps and 4 track sessions of 20 minutes each. I got the car re-aligned yesterday, and these are the specs before the alignment:

F: 0.12 Toe in (Left) -0.06 Toe out (Right), Camber about the same since 3 weeks ago.
R: 0.10 Toe Out (Left), 0.50 Toe In (Right), Camber about the same since 3 weeks ago.

This is not new. My car has been aligned so much that recently, I had to replace 4 eccentric bolts and hardware, and a bended suspension frame (due to beyond too tight camber eccentric bolt).

Every time I get the car aligned, I ask for a print out before anything is done. It commonly gets toe out on the rear axle (BIG NO on a GT3) and way off Trust angle (BIG NO on any car).

Is anyone else experiencing the same when looking at the alignment specs before it's done?

I can feel when the alignment is off by driving on the streets. In fact after less than 400 street miles and a 2 days 12 laps autocross, it was off already.

Yesterday I painted red marks on the camber/toe adjusters at the rear, the toe adjusters at the front and the strut towers (which I don't think they move).

Please, check your alignment before getting on the racetrack.

Any ideas?

ldw

Call motorsport and order the cup car rear toe links. Make sure that Phoebe includes the fittings that will make the piece flush with the sub frame(if you have a cup car you take the ones off your old set, but since this is the GT3 street car the pieces are totally different). If you dont ask her for these, then it will not fit properly at subframe. All of your toe adjustments will be made from the middle of the arm which has a threaded bolt on one half and a threaded receiver on the other half. No more eccentrics to deal with. This also eliminates the rubber inboard bushing and provides you with a heim joint there.

MetalSolid

AutoX is pretty abusive to a car, those 3 runs are like a year's worth of Florida driving.

NJ-GT

Lynn:

Thank you so much. That's exactly what I was looking for. The eccentric engineering design doesn't fit a car with a stiff ride. A threaded bolt and receiver like the one used on the front axle is so much better for precision, and it doesn't require the heavy torque wrench used for the eccentrics.

I wonder if there is something like that for rear camber adjustment?

vegasgolf98

As much as you are using the car for competition, I would imagine you should align it at least six times per year. That is the price of competition. I do it once a quarter as I'm not as serious.

Z06

NJ-GT,
I will take a set of those rear toe links as well .....if you get so info please PM.

rdstemler

Are there part numbers for these items?? Are the fittings that are needed numbered, or will they know exactly what is required? Also, how $$$$?

GT3 Nut

Call Kenny at Mid Atlantic Motorwerkes (540)433-9300 in VA. He put the rear cup car stuff (toe links/control arms/etc) on my car. He would know what you need.
By the way, the toe links and cup control arms are awesome to look at. I almost wanted to order extras to hang on the wall.

Z06

Does anyone know the part numbers or which sponsor sells these?

NOBLEGT3

fiorano in toronto has all that stuff

Holger B

I'm interested too. Please keep me in the loop. Thanks.

Group buy?

Carrera GT

Other than a LWF, this is probably the best tip for GT3s. DEVEK (www.devek.net) can supply any Porsche Motorsport parts and help with getting all the right parts to make for a simple parts swap.
As for damaged rear brace from over-tightening, I've seen this all too often. It's important, during the alignment, to correctly release the load from the cams or they bind. A sparing application of WD40 helps. I've had no problem with cars losing rear alignment when the hardware is adjusted and torqued without damage -- even running wider wheels and slicks.