Clutch and FLYwheel again Question
#16
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Originally Posted by cosmos
WAIT!!!! From what I know of engines, (and its not much), one should NEVER do pulley and Flywheel toghther. It is either one or the other.
I don't claim to be an expert, but I have never heard that one before. The flywheel reduces the rotational mass of the engine and the pulleys reduce the rotational speed of engine accesories. Both parts allow the engine to rev quicker and easier. I have both equiped on my professionaly built track cars and I would only assume that the factory built racers are equiped the same.
Smaller pulleys are used on track cars b/c the engines spend most of their life at higher RPM's and the accesories last longer whens slowed down a bit. The potential downside on a street car is that it may slow the accesories down to much leading to some battery charging issues. Remember that street cars don't usually spend as much time in the upper RPM range as track cars.
#17
You have that the wrong way round !..........which is why the RS has lighter flywheel AND lighter pulley.
I have been told the RS part number is the one to use and have ordered it.
Bolt is 40mm long, std GT3 is 48mm, which gives a clue as to the difference.
Cup pulley uses another bolt and shouldered washer.
I have been told the RS part number is the one to use and have ordered it.
Bolt is 40mm long, std GT3 is 48mm, which gives a clue as to the difference.
Cup pulley uses another bolt and shouldered washer.
#19
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Originally Posted by ArcticFox
Care to elaborate on why you are going to have to pull the motor? RMS?
If mine goes (RMS) I will install a LWFW for sure. Tim
If mine goes (RMS) I will install a LWFW for sure. Tim
#20
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Originally Posted by fryd
Let's put it this way. I learned last week how to do Turn 1 to Turn 5 at Watkins flat out...the HARD way. 120mph or so sideways across the bridge into the guardrail. Not much left of the back end.