wilfred

I have been changing my own oil on all of my previous cars but none of them has the engine in the back and none of them were dry sump engines. And I have searched this forum and found answers to most of the questions except one.

So I need 8~9 quarts of 0W40 Mobil 1, an oil filter. some tools, and few pieces of wood to make the job easier. But my question is where is the drain plug? Since this is a dry sump engine, does that mean it doesn't have an oil pan? Is there a drain plug at the bottom of the engine or do I drain it from the reservoir? Any pointers would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

GT3 Nut

2 plugs. 1 on bottom of the reservoir and 1 at the bottom of the crankcase. I don't have pictures to show and my car is not "readily available" at the moment, but it isn't anything difficult.

gt3-4me

got to renntech.org they have a diy section on this.

1999Porsche911

Pretty straight forward. There are 2 plugs to remove to change the oil. The drain plug on the crankcase and the plug on the oil container. Be careful with the oil container when you are removing the plug that you don't damage it. Use new plug rings for the plugs. Changing the filter is also straight forward. Remove the filter by unscrewing. You will have to suck out the remaining oil in the housing. I use a turkey baster and tube. Put in the new filter and screw the cover back on.

mooty

Be careful with the oil container when you are removing the plug that you don't damage it.
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best to put another wrench on the neck of the oil container while you unscrew the bolt to drain so you won't break the neck of the oil container.

Use new plug rings for the plugs.
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one is alum. one is copper, not interchangeable

Changing the filter is also straight forward. Remove the filter by unscrewing. You will have to suck out the remaining oil in the housing.
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if you let the car drain for 1/2 hour, all the oil in the filter reservoir will drain out as well so you don't have to suck it out.

some gt3 are very low, so to jack the rear end up you may need to drive rear tires on to some 2x6's.

rockitman

definately follow the renntech instructions. Follow torque requirements and use two wrenches opposing each other keeping the one stationary(keeps oil tank from moving) while at the same time loosening the plug.

skl

Ditto on the renntech.org instructions, and as mentioned above, don't just go after the bolt on the tank without securing it above. Pretty easy- the filter is a breeze compared to the 993's!!!

Mac 86 951

I would hate to admit it, but I now have a new goal in life.
As a college student I consider myself blessed by the gods to own a 951 in a town where the mayor will drive his wife to a "classy" dinner in the Ford farm truck, rust and all.
Now, when I read the title to this posting, I was thinking, how hard could changing the oil be? Well, then I reached the words dry sump and I realized that I don't know either. Once I got a ride in a Diablo SCV (The V-12 not the crappy 8) and I took pride in the fact that I knew where the oil went, but now I have a new goal. I want a GT3! Not only cause I love Porsche more than Lambo, but because I would take even more pride in having to learn how to change the oil.

Any other opinions?

-Mac

wilfred

Thanks all! This forum rules!!! I didn't know there was a diy section. Off to renntech.org i go...

plima

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...code=diy_oc_tt

MWM

Slightly different question . . . I'll just barely wrap-up my break-in miles before a 2-day DE at Barber. Should I change the oil filter only? Full oil swap? Nothing at all?

CodeRed

I just did it and it only took an hour. That'a a lot better than $300 at a dealership

Moogle

it can wait until after the DE, but definitely get it done soon.

Cupcar#12

break in is 2k or 4k miles i believe - The recomended servce interval is 15K (i believe for the gt-3)
you should be fine waiting until 7.5k or longer.
btw - i do mine every 3k in the 996 (non-gt-3) just to be safe - it's one of those things you cannot do often enough.