roll bar vs roll cage
#16
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Is drilling needed for a DAS in a GT3? I thought the only DAS bar that needed drilling was for a 993 cab. I have a DAS in my 993 C4S and I agree w/ Vegas about the quality - fantastic!
#17
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The Das Bar (Generation III) for the GT3 is a bolt in, do you have a sunroof or not, you'll need to specify when ordering. It will require paint or powder coating and a whole lot of shipping $, but it will bolt in and out. GenIII is key, GenI was good, but they edited for some reason and (as being the first to install a GenII) we found it didn't fit due to improper design and was missing the rear X, wasn't cool.
You'll need to cut holes in your existing ECU (carpeted shelf) cover or purchase a knock off cover (we have them in tan/black/gray) and cut into it instead. Running w/o the cover can get a lot of dust in your ECU's if you ever have even a minor off in during the dry season. The main hoop feet bolt into your 3 pt. seat belt tail strap holes, and the rear extenders bolt right on top of your rear shock towers. There are still tricks to install, as even if the bar is off by 2-3mm, you'll have to utilize some techniques to bolt it in.
btw, it's a heavy bugger, about 50lbs or so, they do use rear 1 3/4" mild steel just like pro's. The rear 1/2 of the RS cage, which you can run all day without the front extender bars weighs considerably less. Anyway you go, I could insert a shameless plug for our pre-season specials thru 4/15/05, but it's posted from a week or 2 ago already. There's relevant info there.
Mooty is right on, no helmet, no front extender bars allowed, even if they have the correct padding.
You'll need to cut holes in your existing ECU (carpeted shelf) cover or purchase a knock off cover (we have them in tan/black/gray) and cut into it instead. Running w/o the cover can get a lot of dust in your ECU's if you ever have even a minor off in during the dry season. The main hoop feet bolt into your 3 pt. seat belt tail strap holes, and the rear extenders bolt right on top of your rear shock towers. There are still tricks to install, as even if the bar is off by 2-3mm, you'll have to utilize some techniques to bolt it in.
btw, it's a heavy bugger, about 50lbs or so, they do use rear 1 3/4" mild steel just like pro's. The rear 1/2 of the RS cage, which you can run all day without the front extender bars weighs considerably less. Anyway you go, I could insert a shameless plug for our pre-season specials thru 4/15/05, but it's posted from a week or 2 ago already. There's relevant info there.
Mooty is right on, no helmet, no front extender bars allowed, even if they have the correct padding.
#18
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Originally Posted by Austin
The Das Bar (Generation III) for the GT3 is a bolt in, do you have a sunroof or not, you'll need to specify when ordering. It will require paint or powder coating and a whole lot of shipping $, but it will bolt in and out. GenIII is key, GenI was good, but they edited for some reason and (as being the first to install a GenII) we found it didn't fit due to improper design and was missing the rear X, wasn't cool.
You'll need to cut holes in your existing ECU (carpeted shelf) cover or purchase a knock off cover (we have them in tan/black/gray) and cut into it instead. Running w/o the cover can get a lot of dust in your ECU's if you ever have even a minor off in during the dry season. The main hoop feet bolt into your 3 pt. seat belt tail strap holes, and the rear extenders bolt right on top of your rear shock towers. There are still tricks to install, as even if the bar is off by 2-3mm, you'll have to utilize some techniques to bolt it in.
btw, it's a heavy bugger, about 50lbs or so, they do use rear 1 3/4" mild steel just like pro's. The rear 1/2 of the RS cage, which you can run all day without the front extender bars weighs considerably less. Anyway you go, I could insert a shameless plug for our pre-season specials thru 4/15/05, but it's posted from a week or 2 ago already. There's relevant info there.
Mooty is right on, no helmet, no front extender bars allowed, even if they have the correct padding.
You'll need to cut holes in your existing ECU (carpeted shelf) cover or purchase a knock off cover (we have them in tan/black/gray) and cut into it instead. Running w/o the cover can get a lot of dust in your ECU's if you ever have even a minor off in during the dry season. The main hoop feet bolt into your 3 pt. seat belt tail strap holes, and the rear extenders bolt right on top of your rear shock towers. There are still tricks to install, as even if the bar is off by 2-3mm, you'll have to utilize some techniques to bolt it in.
btw, it's a heavy bugger, about 50lbs or so, they do use rear 1 3/4" mild steel just like pro's. The rear 1/2 of the RS cage, which you can run all day without the front extender bars weighs considerably less. Anyway you go, I could insert a shameless plug for our pre-season specials thru 4/15/05, but it's posted from a week or 2 ago already. There's relevant info there.
Mooty is right on, no helmet, no front extender bars allowed, even if they have the correct padding.
#19
You do NOT need to drill any holes for the DAS bar unless you want to attach the plates that bolt to the floor making it ok to run in PCA races (I wouldn't run anyway without a cage).
I don't give a crap about drilling a hole in my $100,000 plus car if it is going to make the bar safer, me safer and my passengers safer. There is only one me and I'm worth a lot more than $100,000 or the value my car MAY be slightly diminished if it has a hole.
If I ever sold my car (which I highly doubt) I would only want to sell it to a track junkie anyway (who would appreciate all the mods I've done). Otherwise, it would be worng of me to sell it to someone who is going to use it for the street as it will have 80% of its miles being track miles.
Besides, I've already drilled holes to connect the sub belt for my harnesses (the safe way). You can always plug the holes with factory rubber plugs if you pull it all out, but there are plugged holes all over the car anyway. What is the big deal? No one here is going to concours it.
My point being there is not ONE good reason for ME not to drill holes. If you fit my parameter, there really isn't for you either. You just have to really think about it. If you use the GT3 for the street mostly, then fine buy the TE bar or don't bolt in the DAS Sport bar. I agree with Bob to each his own. But, sometimes people are just afraid to make the common sense decision. You bought the car, and unless $5,000 in resale value (debatable) should not prevent you from making the car as safe as possible and still be streetable. I also bought the best helmet, HANS, Belts, brakes, etc. I don't compromise on safety if I can help it.
I spoke to Larry about buying the DAS and I'm really glad he recommended it. I got mine powder coated in Las Vegas for $130 in the same light gloss black( but you could do it in chrome if you wanted to-let your imagination run wild). Things are cheaper in the desert.
I ordered the generation I bar, was told they had problems with generation II, and they wanted to send me generation III (which does not have the X, just a / cross bar). I wanted the X (cross bar) and they made me up a generation I. This is the design I recommend, I can get in the back to clean my windows, adjust my rebound on my shocks, so why not? I'm only a pudgy 5'9" though so judge accordingly if you're a big guy.
I don't give a crap about drilling a hole in my $100,000 plus car if it is going to make the bar safer, me safer and my passengers safer. There is only one me and I'm worth a lot more than $100,000 or the value my car MAY be slightly diminished if it has a hole.
If I ever sold my car (which I highly doubt) I would only want to sell it to a track junkie anyway (who would appreciate all the mods I've done). Otherwise, it would be worng of me to sell it to someone who is going to use it for the street as it will have 80% of its miles being track miles.
Besides, I've already drilled holes to connect the sub belt for my harnesses (the safe way). You can always plug the holes with factory rubber plugs if you pull it all out, but there are plugged holes all over the car anyway. What is the big deal? No one here is going to concours it.
My point being there is not ONE good reason for ME not to drill holes. If you fit my parameter, there really isn't for you either. You just have to really think about it. If you use the GT3 for the street mostly, then fine buy the TE bar or don't bolt in the DAS Sport bar. I agree with Bob to each his own. But, sometimes people are just afraid to make the common sense decision. You bought the car, and unless $5,000 in resale value (debatable) should not prevent you from making the car as safe as possible and still be streetable. I also bought the best helmet, HANS, Belts, brakes, etc. I don't compromise on safety if I can help it.
I spoke to Larry about buying the DAS and I'm really glad he recommended it. I got mine powder coated in Las Vegas for $130 in the same light gloss black( but you could do it in chrome if you wanted to-let your imagination run wild). Things are cheaper in the desert.
I ordered the generation I bar, was told they had problems with generation II, and they wanted to send me generation III (which does not have the X, just a / cross bar). I wanted the X (cross bar) and they made me up a generation I. This is the design I recommend, I can get in the back to clean my windows, adjust my rebound on my shocks, so why not? I'm only a pudgy 5'9" though so judge accordingly if you're a big guy.
#20
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Jeeva,
Here is the link to the page on the site about roll bars, seats, pads etc.
http://devek.net/index.php?page=specials
our site is getting updates as we go (it's about 4 years behind), doing 12hour days and weekend track events doesn't leave much time for webdev...we're getting there though.
Here is the link to the page on the site about roll bars, seats, pads etc.
http://devek.net/index.php?page=specials
our site is getting updates as we go (it's about 4 years behind), doing 12hour days and weekend track events doesn't leave much time for webdev...we're getting there though.
#21
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Originally Posted by Holger B
Mooty, I was thinking the same thing but didn't include it in my post.
A cage on the street can be a lethal mistake, even in a minor fender bender.
A cage on the street can be a lethal mistake, even in a minor fender bender.
The comment above is to the point... however, if there is a chance you might see a different slant on your horizon, get a rolled steel cage. If things go very wrong, you'll be glad for the extra strenght
#22
if you wear 6pt harnesses on the street, then the "cage on the street=bad" argument is thrown out right?
and sorry to highjack,
is it bad to wear 6pt harnesses on the street (besides running the risk of looking like you are safety paranoid) (a tollbooth operator once asked why i was wearing a parachute).
and sorry to highjack,
is it bad to wear 6pt harnesses on the street (besides running the risk of looking like you are safety paranoid) (a tollbooth operator once asked why i was wearing a parachute).
#23
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tom,
even if you wear 6 or 5 point, i still won't put cage in street car. ususally on track, my harness are pulled so tight i get bruises on my shoulders (i even have shoulder pads on the harness, but still).. and i can't reach any controls in the car other than steering wheel and window switches. i dont' think you will buckle down this tight on street. if you don't then the harness is useless as it doesn't have that inertia stop like oem belts. a lose harness will still allow your body to move and your head may bang on the bar at A piller or right above window opening.
not gospel, just my thoughts.
even if you wear 6 or 5 point, i still won't put cage in street car. ususally on track, my harness are pulled so tight i get bruises on my shoulders (i even have shoulder pads on the harness, but still).. and i can't reach any controls in the car other than steering wheel and window switches. i dont' think you will buckle down this tight on street. if you don't then the harness is useless as it doesn't have that inertia stop like oem belts. a lose harness will still allow your body to move and your head may bang on the bar at A piller or right above window opening.
not gospel, just my thoughts.
#24
Mooty,
Any pics of the RS rollbar (or install difficulties you'd care to share? Or was that someone else?
Thanks.
Any pics of the RS rollbar (or install difficulties you'd care to share? Or was that someone else?
Thanks.
Last edited by Jim H.; 04-01-2005 at 05:43 AM. Reason: add question
#25
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Moogle - some jurisdictions will ticket you for wearing a harness on the street because it is not a DOT approved seat-belt. Many jurisdictions prohibit the use of a roll cage in a street car for safety reasons advanced herein.
Best,
Best,
#26
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jim, please goto www.tcdesignfab.com and look for GT3 track build. the bar in there is not the RS bar yet. that's temporary. the new one is being fabricated as we speak. but the mounting points are the same. rear is bolted to shock tower, front leg is bolted to a plate welded to chassis. small amount of carpets are cut, but easily concealed/repalced.
my fabricator installed for me and it's custom fabricated so i can't tell you how difficult the installation is. but feel free to call tony at above URL.
my fabricator installed for me and it's custom fabricated so i can't tell you how difficult the installation is. but feel free to call tony at above URL.
Last edited by mooty; 04-01-2005 at 01:25 PM. Reason: sp
#27
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if you get in an accident and you're wearing a non-DOT harness, your insurance might not cover you because of that fact. might sound like a stretch, but they'll jump on anything
#30
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I got mine from www.carnewal.com air freight to your door in 3 days. Prices are usually better at rennlist sponsors than from the dealer.
Rgds.
Rgds.