Brembo floating hardware info
#17
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I didn't know such a thing was available either.
A couple notes on the install. The caliper bolts have a thin anti-seize coating that could be damaged on removal, so use new caliper bolts to avoid the possibility of steel to aluminum corrosion. Also, be careful when replacing the brake pads. The yellow zicron oxide piston caps are very brittle and easily cracked. I'm using the CGT factory piston retractor tool. It is sized for the front calipers but works in the rear also when inserted into the caliper at an angle.
A couple notes on the install. The caliper bolts have a thin anti-seize coating that could be damaged on removal, so use new caliper bolts to avoid the possibility of steel to aluminum corrosion. Also, be careful when replacing the brake pads. The yellow zicron oxide piston caps are very brittle and easily cracked. I'm using the CGT factory piston retractor tool. It is sized for the front calipers but works in the rear also when inserted into the caliper at an angle.
#18
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typically it is used by the drag racing community - it locks the brakes on a given axle and has a push button to engage and disengage.
In this case you would install it to opperate the rear brake calipers direclty
pretty simple fix for deleting the parking brake - there is also a purely mechanical version of this as well - Also there are hydrualic parking brakes that can be installed (all operating on the calipers directly) - these are used by the rally community typically.
-just a thought for this application
In this case you would install it to opperate the rear brake calipers direclty
pretty simple fix for deleting the parking brake - there is also a purely mechanical version of this as well - Also there are hydrualic parking brakes that can be installed (all operating on the calipers directly) - these are used by the rally community typically.
-just a thought for this application
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huh, line locks are for drag racing ?!? you can't use them to replace a parking brake? why would you want to retap the master cylinder? that will reduce the performance of the system overall, given the extra hydraulic plumbing
how about this - why not replace the front rotors only, and leave the back stock? its the fronts anyway that do all the work, and have the cooling issues, not to mention they wear through the pads quicker. will the car be out of balance that way? you get to retain the e-brake and save $1500 too.
how about this - why not replace the front rotors only, and leave the back stock? its the fronts anyway that do all the work, and have the cooling issues, not to mention they wear through the pads quicker. will the car be out of balance that way? you get to retain the e-brake and save $1500 too.
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I don't understand why Brembo didn't simply make their system e-brake compatible. The cost of the rear fittment is huge because you'll have to replace the e-brake before selling the car on, so the real cost will be closer to $4k than $1.5k. I am really surprised that they didn't just get it right in the first place. I think AP or maybe the Devek system will be more appealing for me.
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yes they are for drag racing - and they are not parking brakes - i agree with you there. In fact most co. say don't use them as a parking brake.
but they can be used for this application with some modification (i would use a mechanical lock in this case that does not require power to be applied to it to lock the brakes)
as i said this was a thought - the hydralic parking brake might be a better option in this case
but they can be used for this application with some modification (i would use a mechanical lock in this case that does not require power to be applied to it to lock the brakes)
as i said this was a thought - the hydralic parking brake might be a better option in this case
#22
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Originally Posted by macfly
I don't understand why Brembo didn't simply make their system e-brake compatible. The cost of the rear fittment is huge because you'll have to replace the e-brake before selling the car on, so the real cost will be closer to $4k than $1.5k. I am really surprised that they didn't just get it right in the first place. I think AP or maybe the Devek system will be more appealing for me.
Do you have a link?
#23
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macfly, this stuff is designed for the Cup car where lack of e-brake is a non-issue. Even a steel hat for braking purposes would not solve the problem because of the space taken by the disc flange and the floating hardware connectors on the back side. Here are the weights:
OEM front 27.5lbs
Brembo front 21.5lbs
OEM rear 19lbs
Brembo rear 14.5lbs
e-brake parts 1.5lbs
Total unsprung rotating weight savings is 24lbs.
OEM front 27.5lbs
Brembo front 21.5lbs
OEM rear 19lbs
Brembo rear 14.5lbs
e-brake parts 1.5lbs
Total unsprung rotating weight savings is 24lbs.
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Guess that makes sense, so brakes will save 24lbs, and those Joenbloed Aero 'cooling' wheels I've been eyeing are 18 & 19 respectively, so around another 30lbs, so just brakes and wheels can save ~55lbs.
#26
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They are designed for the Cup car, but whether are not Porsche Motorsports OEM's them I don't know.
Edit: I just got back from bedding in RS-19s and discs and trying them out. The pedal has a nice firm feel, easy to modulate the braking, no vibration, and no floating hardware rattles. At least for a short test, so far so good.
Edit: I just got back from bedding in RS-19s and discs and trying them out. The pedal has a nice firm feel, easy to modulate the braking, no vibration, and no floating hardware rattles. At least for a short test, so far so good.
Last edited by mds; 03-11-2005 at 08:16 PM.
#29
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Just bothers me that they are not cross drilled .. very strange.
http://content2.us.porsche.com/prod/..._cup_996brakes
http://content2.us.porsche.com/prod/..._cup_996brakes
#30
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Originally Posted by quartermile
Just bothers me that they are not cross drilled .. very strange.
http://content2.us.porsche.com/prod/..._cup_996brakes
http://content2.us.porsche.com/prod/..._cup_996brakes