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Old 06-26-2004, 11:23 AM
  #16  
KINGSRULE
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Like I said..

continous RPM on the autobahn
Old 06-27-2004, 11:42 AM
  #17  
hansi1
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Originally posted by RR


What i did was allow the car to fully warm up, and then for the first 1000miles, alternate hard throttle, with full throttle lift off. This helps to create that hard vacuum effect to seat the valves.
Hard vacuum effect? Where did you get that story from?



Originally posted by RR

The motors are all broken in at the factory. You will be doing more of a diservice to yourself if you baby your car.
The engines are only function-tested on the dyno at the factory: checked for fuel/ water/ oil leakages, and initial power output.

They are definitely not run in.
Old 06-27-2004, 10:06 PM
  #18  
rockitman
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RE: Factory Breakin

Originally posted by hansi1
The engines are only function-tested on the dyno at the factory: checked for fuel/ water/ oil leakages, and initial power output.

They are definitely not run in.
In other words, Porsche DOES NOT BREAK-IN YOUR MOTOR...

Thank you...Finally someone who doesn't re-write what Porsche says in the manual...
Old 06-28-2004, 12:56 AM
  #19  
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I like what "rockitman" said !

I was recently at the Porsche AG Factory and looked over the engine department with great interest. They don't tell you much technically (trade secrets) but the process where they run the engines hasn't changed much over the years. I asked a lot of detailed questions but got very few answers.

- It is "function testing" and a quality control step. It's obviously a good thing and I'm glad they do it.

- This segment of the manufacturing process takes about 36 minutes total. They would not say how long the engine actual runs on the dynomometer. The engine oil is supplied from a central heated resevoir for all engines. New oil is placed in the engine after the dyno test.

- The V8 engine for the SUV gets a cold run (no combustion process) by an electric motor. Then it goes to the dyno. This process step will soon be applied to all the Porsche engines.

- Porsche AG is claiming a 1% failure rate on engines at the factory and claims it is normally due to a supplier's part. Those that fail get disassembled as needed to correct the fault. Yes, I saw failed engines getting worked on.

One of the last processes, just about everybody knows about, is the factory test drive of the Porsche. This is about 25 kilometers in length and they claim that the drivers follow their checklist to the letter. For those owners who say their Porsche has never been in the rain... the reality is that it may be true while they have had posession of the car, cause if its raining during the factory drive the car goes anyway. Also, they don't reset the odometer after the drive or re-drives.

I'm going to find a reliable documented source about "break in" for high performance street cars and share the major points with this forum. There is way too much guessing going on. Until then be patient and follow the owner's manual as many have said. Like many of you, I don't blindly agree with everything Porsche says or recommends but in this case I have no valid reason to challenge what their manual says.

It takes little time and effort to damage or prematurely wear components of this fine automobile !
Old 06-28-2004, 02:41 AM
  #20  
mooty
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first 200 miles i took easy. after that WOP tup to 7500 rpm. now 9000 miles, uses zero oil unless i am on the race track ;o)
Old 06-28-2004, 04:18 AM
  #21  
jecey
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Having worked for about 10 years at one of the biggest car maker in Europe, 3 years as design engineer for (diesel) engines, this is what I can tell you on this point.
This is all a question of tolerences.
The biggest problem when you build an engine, is to find the parts which will match each other. Some are tights, and other have too much clearances.
When you have tight tolerances between 2 parts, you create a weak-point, producing heat and particles. During high rpm, the dilatation is even higher and can produce more heat and particles, as result, higher clearance, and then in some cases, lower performance.
The most important to think about is that if something wrong happens during that critical time when parts are coming each other in a "natural" tolerance, you are not that fast. I mean, if there is a problem with the car, it's better to be at 50 miles an hour than 190 ... right ?
I am also a motorcycle racer, and after having build an "race" engine, we start it up, and keep it at idle for 30 min, then progressively, go to higher rpm.
No need to make a big story about break-in period. Just give time to parts to work each other in harmony. It's a question of respect of mechanical components, same for brakes and (especialy) tires.
Old 06-28-2004, 06:07 PM
  #22  
Caleb
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It wasn't my dad's car, it was mine. It was $25k, not $30 and completely covered means you get to have a new gt3 with $25k worth of work recently done to it or take a cash hit at least that big in selling it. Btw porsche was not at all helpful in sorting it out - complete nightmare. Manthey racing on the other hand are saints.



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