OBD Drive cycle reset for inspections etc
04-15-2022, 11:58 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
OBD Drive cycle reset for inspections etc
Been a few threads here on this subject (https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...ny-advice.html )
What follows is my recent experience fwiw:
My car was titled in March - biggest mistake I’ve made w that car - and of course that means inspection time. Given the NJ sketchy weather, over brinning, etc.. , I am always scrambling in April (late) to get it done. Unfortunately, this April, the battery decided it had given its all necessitating a change with me forgetting that such action would require the dreaded OBD Emission monitor reset procedure before the inspection ( the Durametric read "Fail" for the CATs readiness after several long rides as I sat there smdh ). Given I was already late and 'illegal' driving for a few hundred miles more was not in play...
After researching here and elsewhere re how best to perform the drive cycle, this is what worked:
Gas at 3/4 to 1/4 full, no more no less -
Start (cold start required) and idle 2.5 minutes.
Begin driving, accelerate to 20-30 mph and maintain speed for 3.5 minutes.
Then increase speed to 40-55 mph, again maintaining steady speed for 15 minutes.
Then decelerate and come to a complete stop and idle in neutral for 3 minutes.
Shut it down, pull key, restart, and check...
The above is known.
What appears to be less known, after much web surfing, is this gem: So long as one keeps the rpms under 3K, and the speed under 60 mph, the test can be performed in sections (ie, so the first part one place and the second part another, adhering to the rules in between locations). This included, in my case, cold start - garage - to the roadway used for the first test/section and a 20+ mile gap to the roadway used for the second test/section. Note also that there cannot be any large fluctuations in throttle angle during the sections. If any of the above three things occur then the test is abandoned (forcing another 'cold start' retry...). I would also further note, as you all know, the car wants to be over 3K and 60mph all times and will actively work against you (periodic check of traffic conditions and the tach is rapidly climbing or you are at 59 mph, etc., lol) - - what a PITA (esp without cruse control) ! !
As one would get run over on an expressway adhering to the drive cycle speed mandates, being able to break up the test on differing roadways is huge. Anyways, this worked for me yesterday, Durametric confirmed "Pass" on the CATs immediately after the cycle (had notebook plugged into car during run), and the car passed State emissions inspection yesterday.
Leaving this here for future searchers lol; and GL!
What follows is my recent experience fwiw:
My car was titled in March - biggest mistake I’ve made w that car - and of course that means inspection time. Given the NJ sketchy weather, over brinning, etc.. , I am always scrambling in April (late) to get it done. Unfortunately, this April, the battery decided it had given its all necessitating a change with me forgetting that such action would require the dreaded OBD Emission monitor reset procedure before the inspection ( the Durametric read "Fail" for the CATs readiness after several long rides as I sat there smdh ). Given I was already late and 'illegal' driving for a few hundred miles more was not in play...
After researching here and elsewhere re how best to perform the drive cycle, this is what worked:
Gas at 3/4 to 1/4 full, no more no less -
Start (cold start required) and idle 2.5 minutes.
Begin driving, accelerate to 20-30 mph and maintain speed for 3.5 minutes.
Then increase speed to 40-55 mph, again maintaining steady speed for 15 minutes.
Then decelerate and come to a complete stop and idle in neutral for 3 minutes.
Shut it down, pull key, restart, and check...
The above is known.
What appears to be less known, after much web surfing, is this gem: So long as one keeps the rpms under 3K, and the speed under 60 mph, the test can be performed in sections (ie, so the first part one place and the second part another, adhering to the rules in between locations). This included, in my case, cold start - garage - to the roadway used for the first test/section and a 20+ mile gap to the roadway used for the second test/section. Note also that there cannot be any large fluctuations in throttle angle during the sections. If any of the above three things occur then the test is abandoned (forcing another 'cold start' retry...). I would also further note, as you all know, the car wants to be over 3K and 60mph all times and will actively work against you (periodic check of traffic conditions and the tach is rapidly climbing or you are at 59 mph, etc., lol) - - what a PITA (esp without cruse control) ! !
As one would get run over on an expressway adhering to the drive cycle speed mandates, being able to break up the test on differing roadways is huge. Anyways, this worked for me yesterday, Durametric confirmed "Pass" on the CATs immediately after the cycle (had notebook plugged into car during run), and the car passed State emissions inspection yesterday.
Leaving this here for future searchers lol; and GL!
Last edited by cello; 04-16-2022 at 01:13 PM. Reason: typos/clean up
The following 2 users liked this post by cello:
AngeloGTS (12-16-2023),
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11-04-2023, 09:46 PM
#4
4th Gear
Join Date: May 2010
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Been a few threads here on this subject (https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...ny-advice.html )
What follows is my recent experience fwiw:
My car was titled in March - biggest mistake I’ve made w that car - and of course that means inspection time. Given the NJ sketchy weather, over brinning, etc.. , I am always scrambling in April (late) to get it done. Unfortunately, this April, the battery decided it had given its all necessitating a change with me forgetting that such action would require the dreaded OBD Emission monitor reset procedure before the inspection ( the Durametric read "Fail" for the CATs readiness after several long rides as I sat there smdh ). Given I was already late and 'illegal' driving for a few hundred miles more was not in play...
After researching here and elsewhere re how best to perform the drive cycle, this is what worked:
Gas at 3/4 to 1/4 full, no more no less -
Start (cold start required) and idle 2.5 minutes.
Begin driving, accelerate to 20-30 mph and maintain speed for 3.5 minutes.
Then increase speed to 40-55 mph, again maintaining steady speed for 15 minutes.
Then decelerate and come to a complete stop and idle in neutral for 3 minutes.
Shut it down, pull key, restart, and check...
The above is known.
What appears to be less known, after much web surfing, is this gem: So long as one keeps the rpms under 3K, and the speed under 60 mph, the test can be performed in sections (ie, so the first part one place and the second part another, adhering to the rules in between locations). This included, in my case, cold start - garage - to the roadway used for the first test/section and a 20+ mile gap to the roadway used for the second test/section. Note also that there cannot be any large fluctuations in throttle angle during the sections. If any of the above three things occur then the test is abandoned (forcing another 'cold start' retry...). I would also further note, as you all know, the car wants to be over 3K and 60mph all times and will actively work against you (periodic check of traffic conditions and the tach is rapidly climbing or you are at 59 mph, etc., lol) - - what a PITA (esp without cruse control) ! !
As one would get run over on an expressway adhering to the drive cycle speed mandates, being able to break up the test on differing roadways is huge. Anyways, this worked for me yesterday, Durametric confirmed "Pass" on the CATs immediately after the cycle (had notebook plugged into car during run), and the car passed State emissions inspection yesterday.
Leaving this here for future searchers lol; and GL!
What follows is my recent experience fwiw:
My car was titled in March - biggest mistake I’ve made w that car - and of course that means inspection time. Given the NJ sketchy weather, over brinning, etc.. , I am always scrambling in April (late) to get it done. Unfortunately, this April, the battery decided it had given its all necessitating a change with me forgetting that such action would require the dreaded OBD Emission monitor reset procedure before the inspection ( the Durametric read "Fail" for the CATs readiness after several long rides as I sat there smdh ). Given I was already late and 'illegal' driving for a few hundred miles more was not in play...
After researching here and elsewhere re how best to perform the drive cycle, this is what worked:
Gas at 3/4 to 1/4 full, no more no less -
Start (cold start required) and idle 2.5 minutes.
Begin driving, accelerate to 20-30 mph and maintain speed for 3.5 minutes.
Then increase speed to 40-55 mph, again maintaining steady speed for 15 minutes.
Then decelerate and come to a complete stop and idle in neutral for 3 minutes.
Shut it down, pull key, restart, and check...
The above is known.
What appears to be less known, after much web surfing, is this gem: So long as one keeps the rpms under 3K, and the speed under 60 mph, the test can be performed in sections (ie, so the first part one place and the second part another, adhering to the rules in between locations). This included, in my case, cold start - garage - to the roadway used for the first test/section and a 20+ mile gap to the roadway used for the second test/section. Note also that there cannot be any large fluctuations in throttle angle during the sections. If any of the above three things occur then the test is abandoned (forcing another 'cold start' retry...). I would also further note, as you all know, the car wants to be over 3K and 60mph all times and will actively work against you (periodic check of traffic conditions and the tach is rapidly climbing or you are at 59 mph, etc., lol) - - what a PITA (esp without cruse control) ! !
As one would get run over on an expressway adhering to the drive cycle speed mandates, being able to break up the test on differing roadways is huge. Anyways, this worked for me yesterday, Durametric confirmed "Pass" on the CATs immediately after the cycle (had notebook plugged into car during run), and the car passed State emissions inspection yesterday.
Leaving this here for future searchers lol; and GL!
11-05-2023, 10:51 AM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
One question? Say I start the car up and let it come to idle. I need to get to another place to do the whole test. Can I drive it normally keeping it below 3000 RPM and if I go into the 20 to 30 MPH range and have to stop at stop signs. Can I then once I get to the place to do the test begin it or will the stops signs/ dropping below the range void the test and make me need to begin all over again. Basically need to start the car and drive across the city to get to where I need to do the test. Had mechanics trying to clear the Catalyst without any codes for 250 miles and they could not clear it. I have been trying to make it from my house to the freeway, but keep hitting stop lights. So now I found a place I can do it, but need to drive the car to get there.
The first stint (3.5 minutes) was a few county roads away with two stop signs and two 90 degree turns (so no holding speed steady and a few stops). I cold start-idled it, then started to the first road staying under the 30 mph/3k rpm, then started the first stint/test. Since these were county roads and I could carefully choose the start time that part was fairly easy. It worked for me staying within those parameters despite the slowing and stopping to get to the spot for the steady 3.5 minute rpm/speed part.
Note, I did not (have to) test whether one can cold start then drive to first stint locale at >3K rpms but under 60 mph, then do the 3.5 minute stint at >30 mph etc. My guess is that one will probably not be able to complete the procedure if the roads/traffic to the locale for the first stint force you over either the 3K rpm limit or the 29 mph limit (due to the cold start requirement if the speed/revs exceed the parameters) BUT I could be wrong and it certainly does not hurt to try if necessary/it is otherwise not doable.
As indicated in the OP after the first stint I had to drive a fairly substantial distance to the road for the second stint (15 minute/steady avg 40-50mph) with regular traffic and stops and whatnot. I kept it under 3K rpms and 55 mph (tried to stay at ~50 mph as a top speed) while getting there and that did not 'reset' the procedure and after completing the 15 minute stint at >3K rpms/~50 mph steady (then idle) the Durametric read 'ready'.
Finally, remember that 'large' throttle changes nix the test parameters too. "Large" is undefined. I drove like on a skid pad - squeeze/release throttle gently/slowly - and that worked...
HTH (it IS a PITA)...
11-06-2023, 02:49 AM
#6
4th Gear
Join Date: May 2010
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Thanks. I just registered and ordered a transponder for a toll road near my home that does not get a lot of traffic. Plan on getting there and doing the test there because it was impossible to find anywhere without stopping during the 20 to 30 range. I will give it a try when the transponder arrives. I was never sure about the gap between start up and the 20-30 and if hitting the brakes or stopping made me wait another day. I did this test 5 years ago and it took 2 separate full tests before it worked. I was on my way to pay dealership $1350 to do the test and figured I would do it on the way and maybe pass. I did all the steps and waited with engine running after the 15 min. at 55 and coasting to a stop over quarter mile in neutral. Waited the 3.5 min. Then all by itself the engine RPM's shot up to around 8000 for about 20 seconds and came back down. Took it to a Smog shop and they said it was ready to go. Thanks again. Will try and update once I finally get it done.
Last edited by lbtoolman; 11-06-2023 at 02:55 AM.