De Jeeper

I would assume Tarett would be the easiest place to get them but im sure they r not a custom heim. That would probably make the assembly too expensive. Finding the correct ones elsewhere would just take some research and careful measrements.

See how its captured with a bolt on plate.

AudiOn19s

The marketing team that named these "Dedicated Track" should be shot...nothing about a twin tube shock with 600/800 springs should be called dedicated track.

That said...the most common thing people do with R&T is take them and put 600/800 springs on them anyhow so it seems like they listened to the market and made a version with springs they should have had on there all along.

Mike Dr - I'd venture that living somewhere with good roads and going to the track 6-7 times a year these will be perfect, in my opinion they are the R&T that Ohlins should have made from the get go.

My brother has re-sprung R&T's on his car and it's a great package...not bashing the product just the name they chose for this version.

craina

Did your brother re-valve? Did he just swap in stiffer springs of the same dimensions or did he add a helper spring?

Mike Dr

Ok thanks for the advice on the "DedicatedTrack". Any other suspension you would recommend?

jpoint

I also have the KW Clubsport setup. I was doing a little track work but only at Road America. I did a few laps with a friend who raced a 996 Cup car and we made some minor adjustments that dialed it in (after the car was aligned and corner balanced by my local shop). I like the KW's but I don't have anything to compare against.

De Jeeper

I was told by 3DM that the shocks should be revalved for the higher spring rates.

AudiOn19s

He only changed by about 15% which is about all you can do on the stock valving. Same diameter but moved to swift springs. Also should note it's on a completely different platform (RX-7) but same damper showing how capable these can be.

Not in this price point, In my opinion the Ohlins is "best in class" at this price point and the DFV technology (high speed bypass) helps them maintain a decent ride on the street. You've qualified that you don't think you'll get that much more serious with the track side of things but if you were still on the upward slop of track involvement and costs a MCS double or JRZ 11 series are fantastic units for people that are pretty serious about track work. Having driven and ridden in my fair share of revalved twin tube setups with higher spring rates the ultimate grip and balance of the car will be on par with anything but their ability to handle bumps and curbs gets questionable when valved to deal with high spring rates which leads to a car that's twitchy and more difficult than it needs to be to drive. Until you're at the threshold of about 75% track and 25% street the investment for a good set of dampers is tough to justify.

spiller

Bumping this old thread. I have the default R&T coilovers with the 400/800 spring rates but one of my front is leaking and needs to be repaired under warranty. I thought it might be a good opportunity to go to their 630lb spring on the front. Has anyone done this with their R&T and if so how is the car on the street? The 400 fronts feel too soft for the track and the car feels like it’s standing on its nose under heavy braking, but it’s nice on twisty roads. I suspect the 630 lb spring will be fine, especially with the ability to adjust the damper stiffness but if anyone has any real world feedback I’d love to hear it.

cheers

De Jeeper

U need to check with ohlin to see if they need to be revalved for that spring rate. Also i would hesitate on increasing just the front rate without increasing the rear rate.

spiller

I have reached out to my local Ohlins dealer who has suggested not to revalve at this stage. I do think I will end up increasing the rear rate too but for now I expect 630lb front will be a better pairing with 800 than the default 400, at least on track. Currently the front end feels a bit lazy to respond on turn in which is resulting in the need for heavy trail braking, and eventual oversteer as the rear end unloads. I expect the firmer front rate to tighten things up and keep the car better balanced through the corner.

De Jeeper

I assume u have tightened the rear sway to max and front to max or 1 from max? This improved my weight transfer to the front, i also softened the rear shocks a couple clicks to load the front under breaking. Doing this with a nt01 245f and 305r has made my steering predictable.

Just trying to make some tuning suggestions before u open up the "can o worms" that r springs. I have yet to have an instructor suggest that i get tighter springs.

craina

I have similar complaints about the 400lb front springs and have been contemplating going to 600 up front as well. I contacted Ohlins USA and they recommended revalving the front shocks.

spiller

Appreciate the input, and its good discussion for the thread! I have been through all of the sway bar tuning with the stock suspension and on my cup car but I have never liked the way the car feels with the bar stiffer in the rear than the front. Yes it will turn better but I found the rear end was freaky on entry and mid corner. Can you elaborate more on how softening the rear shocks increased weight transfer to the front? By softening you are slowing the rate of compression and rebound in the rear, which in theory should actually slow the forwards weight transfer, not speed it up? I am basically trying to speed up the forward weight transfer so that I don't have to trail brake as much. The cup car has a roughly 100 lb split front to rear and it's great, much easier to trail brake without the rear hanging in the air. My previous GT3 also had a similar split and the result was the same. A predictable, sharp front end - weight transfer fore and aft was quick.

De Jeeper

At this point im sure u have more experience in tuning then me.

My comment for softening the rear is only really relavant when breaking (at least for me). I feel depending on the track this helps me get more weight on the front when turning in and this helps the front end grip. It also helps even out my breaking so the front abs is less active.

For my car it feels like the rear end is always swinging out (even with semisolid motor mounts). This is what i always thought was causing my car to sometimes miss its mark. I did try a set of pirelli scrubs at summit point and the tires seemed to fix all my placement issues....i guess i should be driving them faster?

Sirenty

I think this is backwards. Softening quickens the rate, stiffening is what slows the rate. In other words, a soft setting will compress and rebound quicker and have less effect on the spring than a stiffer setting. With a soft rebound rear, weight will transfer faster to the front because the rear can extend up quicker and cause the car to adopt a dive attitude quicker. As a counter example, a drag car may have soft compression in the rear and stiff rebound to keep load on the rear tires. When it takes off, it will quickly squat (soft compress) and then slowly rise as it goes down the track (stiff rebound).

I had two way coilovers installed this year and have been learning as much as I can and experimenting with them. On the street with 500/700 lb springs, I thought I would have to turn them down to get a comfortable, “soft” ride, but the car feels too jittery and bouncy (because they weren’t affecting the springs as much). I slowly learned I have to have them turned up more than halfway to get a well behaved, comfortable ride that absorbs bumps well.

Hopefully someone corrects me if I’m wrong. Still learning.