IMS bearing... (yes, really)
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Went to see the work in progress, and got a good look at the bearings. One of them has a deep gouge down the middle from one end to the other. Not sure what was trapped in there to cause the damage, but fortunately there was no wear on the crankshaft. Other bearings showed wear, but not as bad (yes, we're replacing them all).
-Larry
-Larry
#18
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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In keeping with the slippery slope
, I would suggest the following:
Get the crank checked for straightness / balance - I really like Ollie's for this, others have graciously screwed things up for me! Simple valve job - you want the valves to seal, and perhaps replace the valve guides, but replace the springs, send the injectors out for a cleaning - I like Marren's but there are other good shops out there as well. I used ARP for my con rods, Charlie Wrightwood is the only place to get these, he can sell you a gasket set as well. The Cam bolts are a one-time only fastener, and not cheap...
Ray
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Get the crank checked for straightness / balance - I really like Ollie's for this, others have graciously screwed things up for me! Simple valve job - you want the valves to seal, and perhaps replace the valve guides, but replace the springs, send the injectors out for a cleaning - I like Marren's but there are other good shops out there as well. I used ARP for my con rods, Charlie Wrightwood is the only place to get these, he can sell you a gasket set as well. The Cam bolts are a one-time only fastener, and not cheap...
Ray
#19
Instructor
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#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Thanks for the list, trying to stay off of the slope! I'm not planning on doing any top-end work other than cleaning, it doesn't seem to be necessary. Crank has been checked, and found good. We're going with all Porsche parts where available.
-Larry
-Larry
In keeping with the slippery slope
, I would suggest the following:
Get the crank checked for straightness / balance - I really like Ollie's for this, others have graciously screwed things up for me! Simple valve job - you want the valves to seal, and perhaps replace the valve guides, but replace the springs, send the injectors out for a cleaning - I like Marren's but there are other good shops out there as well. I used ARP for my con rods, Charlie Wrightwood is the only place to get these, he can sell you a gasket set as well. The Cam bolts are a one-time only fastener, and not cheap...
Ray
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Get the crank checked for straightness / balance - I really like Ollie's for this, others have graciously screwed things up for me! Simple valve job - you want the valves to seal, and perhaps replace the valve guides, but replace the springs, send the injectors out for a cleaning - I like Marren's but there are other good shops out there as well. I used ARP for my con rods, Charlie Wrightwood is the only place to get these, he can sell you a gasket set as well. The Cam bolts are a one-time only fastener, and not cheap...
Ray
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
#23
Banned
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Thanks. Look forward to hearing back.
Oil temp north of 175 is crucial for topend longevity. As a side, indications from the last few PCA outings tell me there are hardly any that warm up on the outlap (1:40 fast laps). Granted, the vehicle may retain some heat for the previous session, but still….
Oil temp north of 175 is crucial for topend longevity. As a side, indications from the last few PCA outings tell me there are hardly any that warm up on the outlap (1:40 fast laps). Granted, the vehicle may retain some heat for the previous session, but still….
#25
Banned
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Depending on the type and weight, 175 is min at which you push from my few year research.
most vehicles sit at lower than 190 when putzing about. Some don’t go above 205. Others see 250+.
911’s Mezgers
most vehicles sit at lower than 190 when putzing about. Some don’t go above 205. Others see 250+.
911’s Mezgers