Rootwitch

Going to a track tomorrow morning ... got the car all inspected, doing prep, went out to fill up the tank ... driving along and I get the Check Engine - Drive to Workshop message.
Naturally would have to happen at 8:30 pm at night when I need to leave early the next morning. Unfortunately, I don't have a scanner.
Car has EVOMSit tune, Cargraphic exhaust, which have been on it for a long time, and quite a few R&R items were done when engine was out for coolant line pinning.

The question is - should I go ahead and drive to the track? It's about an hour.

The car is running fine, I went back out a few times after the light came on and it runs and pulls normally. Nothing looks out of place visually, oil level is fine, etc.
The light isn't going away on its own; if I turn the car off and back on, I get the same ominous "drive to workshop" message, but the car runs and drives fine, idles normally and pulls to the top.

The car has had an oxygen sensor code in the past; once since I've had it and, ironically, when it was being driven to the PPI before I bought it.
I can't remember if it came with the same warning message though.

Maybe someone at the track will have a scanner and can tell what's going on.
OTOH, the last thing I want to do is drive it when it shouldn't be driven, or get stuck somewhere on a highway during Friday morning rush hour ...
Any advice is appreciated!

Rootwitch

Since I had filled the tank 6-8 miles before the check engine light tripped, I checked the gas cap, which seemed fine, and drive around the block - light still on.
Came back, disconnected the battery, and the warning did not return when I restarted it. Drove around the block - no warning light.
I'd bet it's this nuisance oxygen sensor code. So I'll head to the track in the morning.

Marv

You need to buy an OBII code reader or at least stop at AutoZone for a free reading. They won't reset it, but you will at least know what the issue is.

Now that you reset it, AutoZone won't help unless it returns.

Rootwitch

Yes, I should get one. I went to the track today and had no problems at all, car ran great, no check engine light to be seen. Most likely it was the oxygen sensor code which seems to come and go.

rodneyr

2nd on the Code reader. I go have a durmetric especially for my Porsche and another one for my BMW's. However, for a fraction of the cost l like my FIXD code reader (around $60) and iPhone combination. It is simple to use and setup and you don't need to use old or unfriendly technology,

Gofishracing

I don't think it will tell you which 02 sensor or wheel sensor etc. I believe the Durametric does.

DHI

Keep us up to date with your findings!

porschedog

I've seen that code, had the heart attack. It was an o2 sensor issue

I have a basic code reader that has proven it's worth many times over in terms of reducing stress after I use it and discover the "no big deal" nature of most CELs

Gofishracing

2 of the 02 sensors easy to change on GT3 - 2 - well- NO. I think either rear bumper removal or exhaust needs to be dropped to get to them. I did just add new heat shields to all 4. Actually a Porsche part under $10. I ordered some extras- so cool. I made some shields for wheel sensors with them as well.

Rootwitch

The CEL has not come back yet so I'm not sure what it was. But I'm pretty sure it was O2 sensor given the past experience.

As I was in the process of buying the car, it tripped an error as it was being driven to the PPI. It was P2096 - "O2 Aging Bank 1".
Another time, at my first track event ever, it tripped again, and someone cleared it.
And, now the most recent instance. Assuming it was also an O2 sensor error, it would be nice to know if it's been the same one each time.
Probably been at least 1000 miles between each event.

The shop that did the engine work after I bought the car, Daugherty Automotive, said that O2 sensors were not all that cheap.
Also they felt that with the aftermarket (Cargraphic) exhaust and tune, it might not be surprising to throw an O2 code.

I do also notice, once in a while that the engine RPM rises slightly then falls, for instance when idling at a stop light.
RPM will go from idle, 7-800 RPM up to 1100 RPM or so and then drift back down, all in a few seconds.
That could also be a sign that something is not exactly right.

Stephen Tinker

Erratic idling can be caused by dirty throttle body - not a difficult task to clean with carb / injector cleaner.
Buying a Durametric for a few hundred dollars is a wise move for anyone looking at maintaining their vehicle - it saved me a lot of money the first time I plugged it in as it indicated a MAF fault while my car still had a Porsche warranty. Just checking hours run, overrevs and cam deviation (important for checking a M96 engines IMS bearing) etc etc is well worth the buy in costs.
Durametric consumer backup has been excellent with any queries I have had....

cgfen

To access the O2 sensors, you are correct.
Rear bumper cover removal required
Heat shield removal required
and
You need to drop the engine a few inches to allow clearance between the engine plate and the body for the O2 sensor cable connectors to slip through, (at least I did).