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In the next few weeks I will be installing a set of JRZ RS Pros on the 6GT3. Starting with 800/1000 spring rates. This is and older setup from TCP, and I was wondering if anyone here was running a similar setup and had any advice on initial settings?
I used to run RS PROs prior to switching to the Motorsport 3 ways. The RS PROs were a great set up. Initial setting will depend on a lot of variables so there is not a one size fits all. I tried various spring combinations including 600/800, 700/800, 1000/1100, 1100/1200 and finally settled on 1400/1500. I will say that running a near square set up was much better that a larger front to rear split.
What model did you run 1400/1500 on, because it seem the 997 and turbo cars like the matched setup. All the 996 GT3 guys prefer a split.
My car is a 996 widebody chassis with GT3 uprights. A 996Cup runs 1370/1484 on identical uprights as a regular GT3. Keep in mind that as you go up in rates the % split is reduced even further if the #split is kept the same.
Last edited by powdrhound; 03-22-2018 at 07:12 PM.
Great, I just bought the 800s, but have 1000s for the front. How significant is 100lbs at this rate? Worth going to 900, or use the 1000s and use the shocks and sway bars to soften the front?
Great, I just bought the 800s, but have 1000s for the front. How significant is 100lbs at this rate? Worth going to 900, or use the 1000s and use the shock sway bars to soften the front?
It's not a make it or break it difference but if it was me I'd narrow it to 900/1000. Springs are cheap. What springs are you using, diameter and length? What helpers?
Last edited by powdrhound; 03-22-2018 at 08:42 PM.
Rears:
0700.225.1000
Rear helpers are something.225.150
The 800s are NIB, I'll just exchange them. No reason to keep what I don't need.
OK, so you're using 6" fronts and 7" rears. That should work even though JRZ normally uses 5" fronts and 6" rears for 996GT3 set ups. I am currently using 4" fronts and 5" rears which is on par with the length of Cup springs. I would also consider using heavier helpers. I've found that a heavier helper helps to "push" the inside wheel a little more into the pavement during a turn and overall seems to make the transition from unweighted to loaded a bit softer or progressive. Hope that makes sense.
Default factory adjustment for the JRZ Pros shocks is +3 clicks bump and +6 rebound from full soft for street use. Starting adjustment for track use is +6 clicks bump and +10 rebound for track use.
Ok, following up on how this all went down. Might help someone else in the future.
This is for the TPC JRZ RS PRO 2 setup with hard mount reservoirs on the front, and remote on the rear.
This image shows the front shock and the sway bar end link that can be used to eliminate the shock mounted setup that most setups have. The reservoirs would interfere with the standard link mount unless using the extended Tarett mounts.
In this pic, I have the reservoirs on the inside, but worried they would interfere with the upper Cup duct and possibly hit the sway bar end link.
In this pic, I have the reservoir rotated towards the front, removing the upper Cup duct. This also shows the Tarett end links and how they attach to the pinch point on the upright.
Better pic of the reservoir in the forward position.
This is the rear, showing the routing of the reservoir hose. I mounted the canisters to the muffler bracket since the mufflers had been removed. Will likely relocate to in front of the fender liner in front of the tires to reduce heat from the engine.
Set the ride height close to what I had previously. Don't recall the exact measurements.
Car was noticeably stiffer, as expected. Experienced a bit of bucking in tighter turns, still working this out.
Hard to really tell with image stabilization, but there are no major bumps in this turn-
I had Tarett sway bar end links that attach to the pinch point and didn't like them. They bind at large steering angle and produce inside front wheel lift in tight corners. Switched to the $$$ extended links and car drives much better.
I had Tarett sway bar end links that attach to the pinch point and didn't like them. They bind at large steering angle and produce inside front wheel lift in tight corners. Switched to the $$$ extended links and car drives much better.
I had the same issue with this construction. It ended up that the drop link was damaged because the steering angle was too limited.
For such an attachment point you need the RS uprights to have the correct balance I think.
On my 996T I run this setup as well, the front canister will be fine pointing to the rear and makes it easy to turn the wheel and adjust as needed.
Shawn
03-22-2018, 09:50 AM
JRZ RS Pro setup
