Back from the Track
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Back from the Track
Fresh back from the track…this is my second two (2) event. The first was Willow Springs….man was I slow, my best time was about 5.5 seconds slower than the 993, a 1:39….BUT, top speed on the main straight was awesome, 145 mph.
Of course all the pre-track safety mods were done prior to my first track event:
1. Welded the coolant pipes,
2. Recaro Profi XL seat with Recaro sliders, very comfortable seat, the right choice for the 6’2” 250 Lb. set. If you are lucky enough to live in the SF Bay Area, go over to Griffin Motorsport and test sit in them all.
3. RSS 931 ½ cage, bolted to the chassis with FULL seat adjustment available, sgtock passenger and Recaro. Damn I am happy I choose this seat!
4. Went to Iron rotors from PCCB and fresh DOT 5 fluid,
5. Covered with lots of XPEL,
6. Schroth 5/6 point belts
7. Cover exterior windshield with 3M
8. 2nd set of GT3 wheels, damn they are heavy.
9. Fresh oil too.
Now to Buttonwillow…needed to build self-confidence…100 more HP is life changing/life altering if you hit something. Slow here too, but worked up from a 2:19 L to a 2:14…I have done 2:10 in this configuration (CCW) with the 993. As I recall I did a 2:06 CW…all on Hoosiers with the 993, and with a 60“ Crawford wing. That wing REALLY helps with stick. Almost made me think I was a good driver. 😁I will be getting an AiM SOLO DL soon (When they are released) and will appreciate the lap by lap in-car feedback. And will be looking at the post session review of the data logging on Race Studio.
Brakes: Pagid Yellow on GIRO front rotors, the same pads on 997 Turbo rear rotors…put the PCCBs on the shelf. These iron brakes are incredible…and give great audible feedback too.
Tires: Slightly used Hoosiers, 3 heat cycles…295/30 on the rear 245/40 on the front. Possibly my car is too low, but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of room for those 245s. There was some slight rubbing on a XPEL piece. I have a set of Nitto NT-01 tires, 245/40 for the front and 315/30 for the rear. I am thinking the 315s will be a tight fit. May have to raise the car up a bit, and or, dial in some more negative camber…I haven’t messed with the alignment at all…I want to learn the car it a stock condition. And it is a dual purpose car, street and Time Trial. I’d rather raise the car a bit than mess with the alignment.
Was it a sin to take a 11,000 mile 2004 GT3 to the track? Not from where I sit. How about drilling holes in the chassis to mount the ½ cage? I personally don’t like the harness bars that attach to the “B” pillar seat belt mount. First of all, in the survey I did, they all restrict rear seat movement, some more than others. At 6’2” and portly (Pleasingly plump?), I need all the seat extension I can get. On the track and on the street, I drive with the seat all the sway to the rear. And secondly, I don’t want my life hanging on two seat belt bolts, I prefer 6 high quality bolts mounted to the chassis.
I'll post up a professional track pic a little later.
Conclusion: The 2004 GT3 is intoxicating to drive fast. Sure you can get 7,500 in 3rd gear before they arrest you, but at the track, you see it in 4th, and at the right track, you get into 5th gear. Willow Springs, you'll see 5th gear in 2 spots.....
Of course all the pre-track safety mods were done prior to my first track event:
1. Welded the coolant pipes,
2. Recaro Profi XL seat with Recaro sliders, very comfortable seat, the right choice for the 6’2” 250 Lb. set. If you are lucky enough to live in the SF Bay Area, go over to Griffin Motorsport and test sit in them all.
3. RSS 931 ½ cage, bolted to the chassis with FULL seat adjustment available, sgtock passenger and Recaro. Damn I am happy I choose this seat!
4. Went to Iron rotors from PCCB and fresh DOT 5 fluid,
5. Covered with lots of XPEL,
6. Schroth 5/6 point belts
7. Cover exterior windshield with 3M
8. 2nd set of GT3 wheels, damn they are heavy.
9. Fresh oil too.
Now to Buttonwillow…needed to build self-confidence…100 more HP is life changing/life altering if you hit something. Slow here too, but worked up from a 2:19 L to a 2:14…I have done 2:10 in this configuration (CCW) with the 993. As I recall I did a 2:06 CW…all on Hoosiers with the 993, and with a 60“ Crawford wing. That wing REALLY helps with stick. Almost made me think I was a good driver. 😁I will be getting an AiM SOLO DL soon (When they are released) and will appreciate the lap by lap in-car feedback. And will be looking at the post session review of the data logging on Race Studio.
Brakes: Pagid Yellow on GIRO front rotors, the same pads on 997 Turbo rear rotors…put the PCCBs on the shelf. These iron brakes are incredible…and give great audible feedback too.
Tires: Slightly used Hoosiers, 3 heat cycles…295/30 on the rear 245/40 on the front. Possibly my car is too low, but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of room for those 245s. There was some slight rubbing on a XPEL piece. I have a set of Nitto NT-01 tires, 245/40 for the front and 315/30 for the rear. I am thinking the 315s will be a tight fit. May have to raise the car up a bit, and or, dial in some more negative camber…I haven’t messed with the alignment at all…I want to learn the car it a stock condition. And it is a dual purpose car, street and Time Trial. I’d rather raise the car a bit than mess with the alignment.
Was it a sin to take a 11,000 mile 2004 GT3 to the track? Not from where I sit. How about drilling holes in the chassis to mount the ½ cage? I personally don’t like the harness bars that attach to the “B” pillar seat belt mount. First of all, in the survey I did, they all restrict rear seat movement, some more than others. At 6’2” and portly (Pleasingly plump?), I need all the seat extension I can get. On the track and on the street, I drive with the seat all the sway to the rear. And secondly, I don’t want my life hanging on two seat belt bolts, I prefer 6 high quality bolts mounted to the chassis.
I'll post up a professional track pic a little later.
Conclusion: The 2004 GT3 is intoxicating to drive fast. Sure you can get 7,500 in 3rd gear before they arrest you, but at the track, you see it in 4th, and at the right track, you get into 5th gear. Willow Springs, you'll see 5th gear in 2 spots.....
#2
Rennlist Member
If your suspension is set up correctly, you'll drop your times as you gain confidence. If you are not set up correctly, it can be scary. I'm not sure about your current tire selection. I used different sizes when I was running R6s, but I've heard R7s are different sizes. Perhaps someone else could chime in.
Is the car oversteering?
Is the car oversteering?
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Set up?
If your suspension is set up correctly, you'll drop your times as you gain confidence. If you are not set up correctly, it can be scary. I'm not sure about your current tire selection. I used different sizes when I was running R6s, but I've heard R7s are different sizes. Perhaps someone else could chime in.
Is the car oversteering?
Is the car oversteering?
I see from the video (Nathan Johnson in a very well prepared POC GT4 car: Excellent driver) there are some techniques that I haven't incorporated �� into my present GT3 driving style. I should have watched this video before I went to the track...will do next time. I stop just short of the part where Nathan drove off the track...looks like slippery debris was the culprit.
Last edited by Martin S.; 03-12-2018 at 03:11 PM.
#4
Race Car
I agree with chuck here, alignment is almost a safety feature as you start to approach the limits of the car, not to mention it will help those Hoosiers last much longer. Adjustable toe links at a minimum are the next progression with full alignment
The low ride height is going to help put some camber into the car but will push caster out of spec which might be why you are seeing the tire rub. Adjustable caster pucks will allow that value to stay in spec no matter what. Every time you change the height you need to fix the alignment.
The 315 rear is also going to be necessary as you approach the limit unless you have the rear bar set Full soft.
The low ride height is going to help put some camber into the car but will push caster out of spec which might be why you are seeing the tire rub. Adjustable caster pucks will allow that value to stay in spec no matter what. Every time you change the height you need to fix the alignment.
The 315 rear is also going to be necessary as you approach the limit unless you have the rear bar set Full soft.
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HDA (05-20-2021)
#6
The peanut gallery here has many hours of GT3/driving wisdom to pass along. Here's my $0.02.
Get a big wing for the GT3. Note that you'll have to change your driving style to accommodate. Trail braking cadence will need to change so you don't under steer from weight transfer.
re 245s: They fit, and you need them. Just roll the fenders.
re 315s: They fit, and you need them. Just roll the fenders. It would be great if you could actually fit something wider in the back.
Run rear sway on full soft. Front bar to your liking. I run full hard or almost full hard.
I don't understand your comment about alignment and "stock condition." There's really no reason to run a street alignment. Search "Kussmaul" and use that. Everyone does it. And, raising the car isn't "stock condition" anyway. So there's no difference (in my mind) between altering one thing or another. I'd suggest getting things right the first time. [that is, I'd recommend that you don't start learning with the wrong setup as you'll just impede your own development down the road.] There's a ton of video and advice on this old platform.
Lastly, driving a 996 GT3 is, well, different. You can't go fast without significant trail braking (thus the need for wider tires in the rear). And, you can't sneak up on fast like other 911s or a BMW or a Miata or a [whatever]. There's a point around 7-8/10ths where you have to just trust the car and push on the gas pedal. Here's a tip I learned from a pro/superstar/international master/LeMans winning GT3 pilot: that whole "gradually push the gas pedal down after the apex" won't give you the best times. It's like a 2-step [almost binary] motion. Push the gas pedal 1/2 way down, if the car sticks, then full throttle. If the car gets a little loose, counter steer, then full throttle. Note that it almost always sticks.
There's a wonderful euphoric feeling when you drive a 6.3 fast. It's all you. No computers fixing the corner. Downside is - if you go slow, it's all you as well...
-td
needed to build self-confidence…100 more HP is life changing/life altering if you hit something. Slow here too, but worked up from a 2:19 L to a 2:14…I have done 2:10 in this configuration (CCW) with the 993. As I recall I did a 2:06 CW…all on Hoosiers with the 993, and with a 60“ Crawford wing. That wing REALLY helps with stick.
295/30 on the rear 245/40 on the front. Possibly my car is too low, but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of room for those 245s. There was some slight rubbing on a XPEL piece. I have a set of Nitto NT-01 tires, 245/40 for the front and 315/30 for the rear. I am thinking the 315s will be a tight fit. May have to raise the car up a bit, and or, dial in some more negative camber…I haven’t messed with the alignment at all…I want to learn the car it a stock condition. And it is a dual purpose car, street and Time Trial. I’d rather raise the car a bit than mess with the alignment.
re 315s: They fit, and you need them. Just roll the fenders. It would be great if you could actually fit something wider in the back.
Run rear sway on full soft. Front bar to your liking. I run full hard or almost full hard.
I don't understand your comment about alignment and "stock condition." There's really no reason to run a street alignment. Search "Kussmaul" and use that. Everyone does it. And, raising the car isn't "stock condition" anyway. So there's no difference (in my mind) between altering one thing or another. I'd suggest getting things right the first time. [that is, I'd recommend that you don't start learning with the wrong setup as you'll just impede your own development down the road.] There's a ton of video and advice on this old platform.
Lastly, driving a 996 GT3 is, well, different. You can't go fast without significant trail braking (thus the need for wider tires in the rear). And, you can't sneak up on fast like other 911s or a BMW or a Miata or a [whatever]. There's a point around 7-8/10ths where you have to just trust the car and push on the gas pedal. Here's a tip I learned from a pro/superstar/international master/LeMans winning GT3 pilot: that whole "gradually push the gas pedal down after the apex" won't give you the best times. It's like a 2-step [almost binary] motion. Push the gas pedal 1/2 way down, if the car sticks, then full throttle. If the car gets a little loose, counter steer, then full throttle. Note that it almost always sticks.
There's a wonderful euphoric feeling when you drive a 6.3 fast. It's all you. No computers fixing the corner. Downside is - if you go slow, it's all you as well...
-td
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HDA (05-20-2021)
#7
Three Wheelin'
Good advice from Tom, but before you do all that, highly recommend you upgrade your LSD. If you still have stock LSD, trail breaking or sticking at exit + full throttle, car will not stick per the pro advice but rather the car will want to rotate or spin. Also, a good LSD will also help with throttle steer the car.
But this goes back to Tom's point, start learning with the right set up/tool.......
I was at the track this weekend, racing past, GT4's, BMW's, mustang's and corvette's - all cars with more capability. The 6 is amazing.
Dan Jacobs, Hairy Dog Garage also has a good set up for the 6-3.
But this goes back to Tom's point, start learning with the right set up/tool.......
I was at the track this weekend, racing past, GT4's, BMW's, mustang's and corvette's - all cars with more capability. The 6 is amazing.
Dan Jacobs, Hairy Dog Garage also has a good set up for the 6-3.
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#8
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I always liked the rear bar in the middle setting as opposed to full soft. A bit pointier with this set up but as long as the alignment is dialed, she's predictive when she slides.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
IOld Thread, but...
The first "Master Shop" who installed my rear toe links, didn't use the locking plates...on the street...one side came loose...had to park the car...go get the trailer. "Master Shop"....bot the case...
#11
Three Wheelin'
Looks like you had fun!
i second himself advice: do all that.
i have a set of FIKSE FM10 wheels for sale if you meed to fit 245/315. Yes, you need 315s.
as far as street vs. track, you need to set up the car for the track. The 6GT3 is a track car that will allow some street usage, not the other way around!
i second himself advice: do all that.
i have a set of FIKSE FM10 wheels for sale if you meed to fit 245/315. Yes, you need 315s.
as far as street vs. track, you need to set up the car for the track. The 6GT3 is a track car that will allow some street usage, not the other way around!
#12
Rennlist Member
Why would you come back to this thread and respond to a 3 year old comment on a car you sold?
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I must agree, I responded to the wrong thread. I so very much appreciate you beinging this to my attention Mr. Moderator. You set the rules around here? I can do whatever I want...if you don't like my posts all 8,000 + of them, don't read them.
Last edited by Martin S.; 05-20-2021 at 11:54 AM.
#14
Rennlist Member
Lighten up Francis. No one said anything about rules. I asked a simple question which you answered. Geez. Panties too tight?