Pin vs Weld? Now I know why most pin
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Pin vs Weld? Now I know why most pin
Once at this point of disassembly, it's pretty easy (pinning) access to the pipes that need attention.
To weld, the <water pump housing> and the <connection piece & belt tensioner bracket> need to be removed.
The more that is removed, the more joints that might leak when I re-assemble
Sigh
Decisions / Decisions.
A good weld jobs solves both catastrophic failure and small leaks.
Pinning just solves catastrophic failure.
rear engine view access
Water pump housing
Connection piece and tensioner bracket
To weld, the <water pump housing> and the <connection piece & belt tensioner bracket> need to be removed.
The more that is removed, the more joints that might leak when I re-assemble
Sigh
Decisions / Decisions.
A good weld jobs solves both catastrophic failure and small leaks.
Pinning just solves catastrophic failure.
rear engine view access
Water pump housing
Connection piece and tensioner bracket
#2
Race Car
Not to be a party pooper...but taking the front of the motor off to get all of those fittings off to be welded is much easier than taking the upper intakes off to get down to the last 2 lines that are located under the oil cooler on the top of the motor.
#3
Drifting
While you're in....
IMO weld. I have had mine welded for ~4 years now. 20k miles. 0 issues with the car.
Refresh hoses, gaskets, etc while motor is off. I think total for me was ~7k but i basically refreshed everything.
Not warranted or needed however at that point she was ~5 years old so why not show a little love.
IMO weld. I have had mine welded for ~4 years now. 20k miles. 0 issues with the car.
Refresh hoses, gaskets, etc while motor is off. I think total for me was ~7k but i basically refreshed everything.
Not warranted or needed however at that point she was ~5 years old so why not show a little love.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, haven't dug down that far......................
#7
Drifting
He means when pipes went.
Mike i think you were, it was very late in the day, ~4:30 pm, a mooty day, low volume of cars. Hose went off front straightaway at thill. I saw it instantly ( i was looking at my rear view mirror the whole front straight to see the mustang) and pulled over.
Bad part i was playing cat and mouse w/ another vehicle luckily we were taking different lines. Flag workers saw it instantly and other vehicle was the only one behind me. Being a mooty day, no other cars within a mile. Other bad part is i reach ~130-40 front straight. Car had 26k miles, first track day ever for the car(not the driver), do not be fooled it wont go for low mile cars!
Mike i think you were, it was very late in the day, ~4:30 pm, a mooty day, low volume of cars. Hose went off front straightaway at thill. I saw it instantly ( i was looking at my rear view mirror the whole front straight to see the mustang) and pulled over.
Bad part i was playing cat and mouse w/ another vehicle luckily we were taking different lines. Flag workers saw it instantly and other vehicle was the only one behind me. Being a mooty day, no other cars within a mile. Other bad part is i reach ~130-40 front straight. Car had 26k miles, first track day ever for the car(not the driver), do not be fooled it wont go for low mile cars!
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#9
Rennlist Member
There are many advocates for both methods (welding and pinning).
I had mine re-glued and then pinned.
To me it appears as if the welding is very difficult to get correct.
Weak spots equals possibly catastrophic coolant spill.
Pranqster
I had mine re-glued and then pinned.
To me it appears as if the welding is very difficult to get correct.
Weak spots equals possibly catastrophic coolant spill.
Pranqster
#10
Rennlist Member
If you use aftermarket sleeves like these from BBI -> https://www.bbiautosport.com/product...hf7rcwmmm43kww
Then you have more shoulder to weld with and end up with a very stout weld/connection because there is a bigger shoulder with better metal to make it right.
It won't fail if done this way.
#11
Rennlist Member
I guess you could make a case that drilling the holes for the pins are risky, too. For one, getting 100% of all the aluminum chips is not easy. Two, you could lose a pin.
#12
Burning Brakes
Funny I also lost coolant at Thunderhill, not so funny was Mikmyu was behind me in his green .1 RS. Scary but no harm ultimately. There's a video on youtube somewhere.
In my case a hose burst, wasn't a factory glue failure. This was with ~20k miles and dozens of track days.
In my case a hose burst, wasn't a factory glue failure. This was with ~20k miles and dozens of track days.
#14
Check with your local PCA group- they can head you in the correct direction. I'm still disappointed I could not get NHTSA to do an actual recall. I REALLY tried. But it is very important for cars taken to the track be fixed. I also replaced all the rubber hoses. Heinlein Racing even safety wired them as well. Beautiful work. Remember - these cars are now 14 years old.
#15
Rennlist Member