Martin S.

CupCar aka Bob, told me about these NASCAR style wheel studs from Tarett Engineering: http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-991-products/996-997-991-interior~exterior/competition-wheel-studs-ea-ts1-detail.htm

I have only had the 6GT3 for about a month, and wasn't looking forward to swapping out wheels because of the wheel 996 studs...you need two (2) stud hangers on PCCB rotors...these NASCAR studs eliminate lots of hassle and make wheel changing far less of a chore...had to have them. You may too when you think about what they can do for you.

They are reasonably priced too IMHO. Below are the instructions...pardon the ALL CAPS, that's the way they came.
WHEEL STUDS

GUIDELINES FOR USE OF COMPETITION STUDS & NUTS
INSTALLATION
1. PROPERLY LIFT AND SUPPORT THE CAR.
2. REMOVE THE WHEELS.
3. CLEAN THE INTERNAL WHEEL HUB THREADS MAKING SURE THERE ARE NOT ANY CONTAMINANTS.
4. START EACH STUD BY HAND (PINK/YELLOW END, SHORT THREADED END GOES IN HUB). TURN STUD UNTIL IT BOTTOMS OUT IN THE WHEEL HUB.
5. USE THE TWO STANDARD HEX NUTS. THREAD THEM ON THE WHEEL SIDE THREADS OF THE STUD AND JAM THEM TOGETHER.
6. TORQUE THE STUD TO APPROXIMATELY 60-70 FOOT POUNDS MAKING SURE IT BOTTOMS OUT IN THE WHEEL HUB.
7. LOOSEN JAM NUTS AND REMOVE FROM STUD.
8. REPEAT STEPS 3 THRU 6 FOR EACH STUD BEING REPLACED.
9. ALLOW 10 MINUTES FOR THE THREAD LOCKER TO CURE.
MAINTANENCE
1. TORQUE LUG NUTS TO 90 TO 95 FT-LBS.
2. AVOID RETORQUEING NUTS WHEN HOT, ALWAYS WHEN COOL.
3. WHEEL STUDS USED FOR COMPETITION ARE CONSIDERED TO BE WEAR ITEMS AND SHOULD BE REPLACED AT THE REGULAR INTERVALS LISTED BELOW.
CLUB RACE/STREET USE – EVERY TWO YEARS
RACE CAR, 10+ EVENTS/YR – EVERY YEAR
PRO TEAM RACE CAR – TWICE A YEAR
4. STUDS AND NUTS SHOULD BE INSPECTED REGULARLY AND REPLACED IF THERE ARE ANY NOTICABLE ISSUES OR SIGNS OF DAMAGE.

177mph

Burger

I'll cut to the chase- Most people who switch to studs and torque to 90-95 Ft Lbs experience stud failure. (Usually on a rear wheel) The guys who rarely have issues if at all, torque to 118-130 Ft Lbs.

I had 3 studs fail on a left rear torquing to 94. Went back to stock bolts. Really want studs again, but a bad experience and thoughts of what could happen at speed make me hesitant.

LuisGT3

How did you know they failed?

Burger

Felt like a tire puncture.

LuisGT3

Like an off balance tire at high speeds? I need to check mine. I felt that at the last track day. All the weights on the wheels.

LuisGT3

Any pics of what they looked like after?

mmuller

Same here. Exactly my experience. Twice I got away with it and decided to not try again.

Martin S.

I will let Tarett Engineering know about this thread. As others have wondered, why would the studs be failing? Inferior steel, or?? Good gawd, what a can of worms I have opened.

As suggest by a friend, "It would be nice to know brand of failing stud. If more torque solves problem that means steel is yielding under load which should not happen with correct alloy."

LuisGT3

I have the Tarrett studs on my car. I'd prefer it if they didn't fail.

Martin S.

I copied a link to this string and sent it to Tarrett Engineering a few minutes ago. I am certain I will be contacted and will forward their response.

I have been using Tarett Engineering products for years. I can't believe they would sell a flawed product with the potential for a catastrophic failure.

jrgordonsenior

Burger and Mueller:

Can you clarify where you sourced your wheel studs from that failed please, please, please....

Burger

The break where the shoulder meets the hub.

The feeling was more pronounced than an out of balance wheel.

Burger

I don't want to call out specific suppliers, as it's my understanding from all my research that they can all break.

Mine were not purchased through Tarett, however.

Martin S.

I am going to install my Tarett Engineering wheel studs. They manufacturing and distribute high quality product. I have been buying suspension parts from them for many years, and will continue to do so.