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Tensioner under A/C compressor - remove for IMS bearing replacement?
Hi everyone, looking to confirm some information. I have read the instructions, seen various posts, and picked through the good and the bad bits of information.
I am about to do the IMS Solution on my 2004 AE. I had come across posts stating it is not necessary to remove the tensioner under the A/C compressor; and just to lock one cam on driver’s side.
While the single cam lock appears to be acceptable, I am curious if it is really true about the one tensioner left in place? While it is tempting to leave that BS all in place and save the hassle of the third bolt; I just assume do everything as mentioned. Curious from those with experience and that have been through this.
Thank you!
I wouldn't tell you to leave that one in place.
You might not get lucky like I did on my 2003 C2, by pinning the crank, locking the cams and just plucking out the two easy ones while changing the IMS.
My guess is you'll likely be fine w/o touching the bank 2 tensioner (which is a lot of work to get to). If you look at the diagram below, you can see the bank 2 tensioner can't affect the flywheel end much. You can always remove it if you run into issues despite locking the bank 1 cam and the crank at TDC.
I installed my IMS Solution without removing the tensioner under the AC compressor. I know of other people that have done it as well. It doesn't need to be removed. Just lock the cam on the drivers side and remove the two lower tensioners.
Guys...THANKS. I really appreciate the feedback. If I get lucky like you FPB I would be super happy, Charlie - nice that worked out for you, and Ahsai that picture definitely shows what you mean.
Anything to help avoid that A/C compressor is tempting...just don't want to be cutting corners for doing the job correctly.
Maybe pinning the bank two cam(s) would also be an idea?
Ahsai, isn't that tool included with the 'regular' IMSS install kit from LN? I was under the impression it was the double slot style that essentially plugs into both cams at the front/flywheel side.
No, there's only one version of the lock down tool available in the market (AFAIK), which can be used to lock bank 1 OR bank 2 but NOT simultaneously. So if you buy two identical ones, you will find that once you lock one side, the other side will not take the other tool due to the phase offset between the two banks.
OK, got it. The double blade style for locking both cams is what I assumed was correct...and the single was optional as the directions stated.
The fun should be starting soon...have a tons of parts already but have a ton more to order...really happy to be part of the club here. These cars are really special.
Note: they lock only the lower shaft, on the right bank (facing flywheel) using the single blade locking tool. This is how I did it as well with no issues. The trick is to make sure you are TDC. Without a whistle tool, or borescope, the only way to be sure is to look at the end of the cam shaft. Its hard to get your head in there to see it, but the groove is off center. I was able to get the locking tool in place with it backwards, but it didn't feel right. Luckily that prompted me to do a bit of research and discover this. Rotated the engine another full turn and all was right and it slipped right in.
Good luck with the project - if you run into trouble, there are quite a few people here that have now done it, so don't be afraid to ask for advice/help. Best advice: take your time!
Charlie, thanks for that video and the information. I am getting way more comfortable with the procedure now and the steps you all have taken. I have a bore scope and doing the Fister mode and tune up so I will have lots of items out of the way which may help with some other projects going on at the same time.
06-20-2017, 06:05 PM
Tensioner under A/C compressor - remove for IMS bearing replacement?
