Brake Rotor / Pad Recommendation
#31
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I just had these fitted. A tiny bit bigger than OEM too, as well as lighter.
I use PAGID pads too.
http://www.girodisc.com/Girodisc-Fro...de_p_6547.html
I use PAGID pads too.
http://www.girodisc.com/Girodisc-Fro...de_p_6547.html
#32
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Here's my .02 on pads and rotors for your application.
I've used the OEM pads for track use since 2002. I've progressed from novice to the black group fairly quickly. I have moved on to R compound tires, and the car is now a track toy. In that long run, I've used a variety of pads and rotor combos. There are definite advantages and disadvantages to the various choices. The best all around combo for your particular situation still remain the OEM pads and rotors. Perfect for the street by being quiet and produces less dust, and more than adequate for even heavy track usage with dependable, reliable, consistent stopping power even with R-compounds. No need for Porsche branded ones, Textar makes them.
Boiled brakes IMO has really nothing to do with pad or rotor brand. It's more often from outdated brake fluid, or poor quality brake fluid. Use Motul 600 or ATE Blue, or the more expensive synthetics, flushed at least once a year, more often if you track heavily. Some people I know do it before each and every DE weekend.
The pulsating feel you get is from transfer of pad material to the disc, happens due to stopping and parking with the brakes still extremely hot from the track. This can happen with any pad/disc combo. Most track events allow for a full lap at slower speeds after each run to allow for cooling of the brakes to avoid this. Cruise through that lap without braking, cruise to a stop to park and get off the brake quickly, shut the engine off and leave the car in gear to hold it in place. I've had glowing red rotors in some DE events, but never had boiled brakes nor pad transfers.
The brake service pack, with new retaining clips, springs and bar are probably a good idea if what you have is 14 years old.
As always, this is all IMO and hope this helps.
I've used the OEM pads for track use since 2002. I've progressed from novice to the black group fairly quickly. I have moved on to R compound tires, and the car is now a track toy. In that long run, I've used a variety of pads and rotor combos. There are definite advantages and disadvantages to the various choices. The best all around combo for your particular situation still remain the OEM pads and rotors. Perfect for the street by being quiet and produces less dust, and more than adequate for even heavy track usage with dependable, reliable, consistent stopping power even with R-compounds. No need for Porsche branded ones, Textar makes them.
Boiled brakes IMO has really nothing to do with pad or rotor brand. It's more often from outdated brake fluid, or poor quality brake fluid. Use Motul 600 or ATE Blue, or the more expensive synthetics, flushed at least once a year, more often if you track heavily. Some people I know do it before each and every DE weekend.
The pulsating feel you get is from transfer of pad material to the disc, happens due to stopping and parking with the brakes still extremely hot from the track. This can happen with any pad/disc combo. Most track events allow for a full lap at slower speeds after each run to allow for cooling of the brakes to avoid this. Cruise through that lap without braking, cruise to a stop to park and get off the brake quickly, shut the engine off and leave the car in gear to hold it in place. I've had glowing red rotors in some DE events, but never had boiled brakes nor pad transfers.
The brake service pack, with new retaining clips, springs and bar are probably a good idea if what you have is 14 years old.
As always, this is all IMO and hope this helps.
Having driven manual all my life I’m now in a PDK. I viewed P as good to use when stopping and don’t put parking break on even after track or hard road driving. In a manual I’d just shift into first and kill the engine. My mistake is I’ve been leaving it in P. Maybe a Hangover from that manual shift to first. Similar physical motion. I should be leaving in D, it seems.
Pads only lasted 7,000 miles. Only one track day. And one particularly hard driving 1,000 mile road trip. Plus some lovely but ultimately chill back country and touring driving.
#33
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Update: So I changed indy shops because I felt the other guys were being sketchy. When the new show checked the pads they were NOT OEM like the prior shop had claimed. So unless the supplier did something different, who knows. Turns out the sensors were melted. I still can't imagine it was my driving. As much as I'd love to think highly of myself I can't be pushing the car that close to its limit.
New pads seem ok. Not as much driving for the past few years w/ COVID
New pads seem ok. Not as much driving for the past few years w/ COVID