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Alarm double beep and central locking frustration

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Old 05-06-2017 | 09:16 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by cwilt
That is very strange. Seems like a circuit is reversed or thinks its reversed. Did you get a chance to hook up a PST2? I think that might be the next thing since this is so weird.
Not yet. Hope to do so next week.
Old 05-06-2017 | 09:33 PM
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Looked at the schematic again. Do your frunk, engine compartment and glove box lights work? They are tied into the same circuit and I was thinking there could be an issue with the wire in the engine compartment since it moves back and forth when you open and close it. Just another thought.
Old 05-07-2017 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cwilt
Looked at the schematic again. Do your frunk, engine compartment and glove box lights work? They are tied into the same circuit and I was thinking there could be an issue with the wire in the engine compartment since it moves back and forth when you open and close it. Just another thought.
Frunk and glove box lights work properly. I'll check the engine compartment.
Old 05-07-2017 | 08:37 PM
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A question related to BAL's ssue, as he pointed it out in his post and vid.....I have the single beep issue which I believe is related to the aftermarket radio the PO installed. I would like the interior detection system to work on mine (as I have a convertible)...is there a solution to trick the radio alarm circuit?
Old 05-08-2017 | 04:35 PM
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Mine has the double beep but it comes and goes. I will keep subscribe to this and if I ever find a solution, I will post as well. I am tempted to try ignition switch since it is the original.
Old 05-08-2017 | 04:51 PM
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Sounds like bad micro-switches inside the door latches. Why you ruled out the driver's side door latch already?
Old 05-08-2017 | 05:05 PM
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Passenger side door was where the window don't drop if open from outside. I bought the microswitch for that one but the center lock light went away before I try to fix it. everything works at that point.

fast forward I got rear ended and the car was in the shop for almost 2 weeks.

got the car back and admired it in the garage and I decided to put the battery tender on. Next morning the center lock light came back on and passenger door window acting up again (won't drop from exterior latch, move down but keep wanting to get back up if pull from interior latch). Drove to work and the center lock light in the interior went off and all working again. I then remembered the light came on after I used battery tender when I first brought it home from PO as well. This past Saturday the light came on and went off but all doors and windows operated just fine... I will find a weekend and put the window regulator but figure I can do the switch too soon. In the meantime I am following this thread.
Old 05-18-2017 | 05:59 PM
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Just an update to what resolved this issue for me. It was the micro switch for the drivers window and the door lock. Ignition switch did nothing, but now all my other issues are fixed. rear demister, windows dropping correctly, and no more double beep or interior lights staying on.
Old 05-18-2017 | 06:28 PM
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Awesome news!

I am at the point to confirm mine is the pass door micro switch now. light came on the other night and I took some lithium lube spray into the lock hit the remote a couple of times and it went away. Been working for a week now but its probably time to take it apart and do a proper cleaning or replace
Old 05-18-2017 | 07:19 PM
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Which microswitches were replaced? There is one for the outside handle, one for the inside handle and a bunch inside the lock mechanism.
Old 05-18-2017 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
Sounds like bad micro-switches inside the door latches. Why you ruled out the driver's side door latch already?
In my case, I tested the switches in the exterior and interior handles. The driver lock mechanism was replaced last year. The passenger mechanism was replaced but the problem remained, so the old part is back in.
Old 05-18-2017 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bal
In my case, I tested the switches in the exterior and interior handles. The driver lock mechanism was replaced last year. The passenger mechanism was replaced but the problem remained, so the old part is back in.
But the driver lock could fail again though.
Old 05-18-2017 | 10:08 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
But the driver lock could fail again though.
It could although all of the troubleshooting steps in the workshop manual check out.
Old 05-18-2017 | 11:37 PM
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I am very interested in the resolution. I have similar issues with my recently purchased 1999 C2. I have only been able to lock the car once or twice with the fob. Typically it locks and immediately unlocks with a double beep, so I no longer try to lock it. When I open the drivers door to get out, it double beeps about 80% of the time. Sometimes it will double beep at night when it is parked and there is no one around it. When I drive the car, it will often double beep in a sweeping left or right hand curve over rough roads. Today it double beeped four different times in a 15 mile trip. One thing I did notice is that the rear deck lid "open" idiot light will stay on for about 30 seconds after I start the car.

This issue is the only thing that annoys me about the car. I am going to purchase a Durametric this weekend, but based on what you wrote, I am not sure it will help me diagnose the source.
Old 05-19-2017 | 12:24 AM
  #45  
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Bal,


the info on the receipt is as follows, checked and tested wiring and plug connections, found drivers door actuator faulting internally. Causing vehicle not to operate window and lock correctly with double horn. Carried out replacement of lock actuator.


Part number PO8N2837016B Door lock ex EMD


This solved my issue although I guess other locks, etc may cause the same faults.



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