Which Glue for brake bal pad
#16
some owners need to surrender their locking wheel bolt socket to the dealer......others should have their engine compartment welded shut ..........for their safety as well as the general driving public
#17
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Originally Posted by extanker
some owners need to surrender their locking wheel bolt socket to the dealer......others should have their engine compartment welded shut ..........for their safety as well as the general driving public
Common sense is involved
#18
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They're $15 each from suncoast - same from my local dealer. I have a C4S though, so maybe they're different prices - they look similar though.
Just remembered you use two per wheel. So 'not expensive' was a bit of an exaggeration. If you've dealt with old corroded/rusted ones like I have - it's still a bargain compared to replacing all of the caliper pistons.
Just remembered you use two per wheel. So 'not expensive' was a bit of an exaggeration. If you've dealt with old corroded/rusted ones like I have - it's still a bargain compared to replacing all of the caliper pistons.
#19
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Originally Posted by charlieaf92
They're $15 each from suncoast - same from my local dealer. I have a C4S though, so maybe they're different prices - they look similar though.
#20
Another poster is neglecting his car because his passenger door doesn't unlock. This guy needs to weld his engine compartment shut because he asked a question about brake dampers. You have some serious issues, my friend. You should seek help.
#21
They're $15 each from suncoast - same from my local dealer. I have a C4S though, so maybe they're different prices - they look similar though.
Just remembered you use two per wheel. So 'not expensive' was a bit of an exaggeration. If you've dealt with old corroded/rusted ones like I have - it's still a bargain compared to replacing all of the caliper pistons.
Just remembered you use two per wheel. So 'not expensive' was a bit of an exaggeration. If you've dealt with old corroded/rusted ones like I have - it's still a bargain compared to replacing all of the caliper pistons.
Back dampers are $15.25 x 4 = $61 (OEM)
#22
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Thread Starter
The dampers are in great shape / not even really needed- but Porsche put them on for a reason- Asai has it down - 600 $ all four corners will be perfect. New fluids, new tires, water pump, coils , plugs, Fister and ceramic coated headers,
New LN thermostat, April Wisconsin ready to go
New LN thermostat, April Wisconsin ready to go
#23
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The dampers are in great shape / not even really needed- but Porsche put them on for a reason- Asai has it down - 600 $ all four corners will be perfect. New fluids, new tires, water pump, coils , plugs, Fister and ceramic coated headers,
New LN thermostat, April Wisconsin ready to go
New LN thermostat, April Wisconsin ready to go
#24
The dampers are in great shape / not even really needed- but Porsche put them on for a reason- Asai has it down - 600 $ all four corners will be perfect. New fluids, new tires, water pump, coils , plugs, Fister and ceramic coated headers,
New LN thermostat, April Wisconsin ready to go
New LN thermostat, April Wisconsin ready to go
- the extra layer between the pad and the piston slows down heat trasnfer to the piston (then to the brake fluid)
- the aluminum slugs act as a heat sink
- the aluminum slugs act as a counterweight to dampen brake pad vibration
Everybody knows that unsprung weight can only hurt handling and you think Porsche will put some dead weight there for no good reason just to hurt handling?
#25
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Their only real benefit is to mitigate brake pad squeal by keeping the brake pad from moving around within the caliper relative to the pistons.
Here's the alternate version of the dampers, which may be cheaper:
Here's the alternate version of the dampers, which may be cheaper:
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Comprehensive Shifting Solutions for your Porsche.
#26
That is not an alternative version of the front brake dampers. That's the dampers for the rear brakes. I agree with what you said for the rear brakes though.
#27
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IMO, for a car that's purely street driven, there's no reason not to use them. If it's track/street, they make pad changes a pain, so I run without them and I've never had any squealing, but YMMV.
If OP is insistent on using them, he should just re-use existing dampers, IMO. That seems like the most cost effective solution. Some copper anti-seize on them should prevent them corroding to the inside bore of the pistons.