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Old 04-25-2017, 08:33 AM
  #16  
dporto
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There are a few different things going on here. A "true sub" is a speaker that only produces low frequencies (typically below 100hz). As long as the speaker is only being fed low frequencies, it is a "sub". How "good" it is, is debatable. Depending on the size of the speaker itself, this can be difficult - much more difficult for small speakers. Although it's difficult, it's not impossible - the box is also responsible for frequency response, and will have a huge effect on how well the speaker performs. Of course physics is the ultimate controller of how much low frequency can/will be reproduced. ** putting full range speakers in a spot that's being fed a low frequency signal (doors?) is not a good idea...
Old 04-25-2017, 03:51 PM
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pesuazo
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Do these fit at the doors without modification to the Box?

I have been researching how deep can one go without cutting......but cannot find the information....
Old 04-25-2017, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by pesuazo
Do these fit at the doors without modification to the Box?

I have been researching how deep can one go without cutting......but cannot find the information....
i think your best bet is to open up the door panel and see what you've got in there (there are two different non- Bose enclosures) and take measurements. Good luck
Old 04-25-2017, 07:31 PM
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"Do these fit at the doors without modification to the Box?

I have been researching how deep can one go without cutting......but cannot find the information.... "


No the speaker boxes will need "minor" modifications to make the subs fit and work properly. There should be a few write-ups on the "how to install" for these subs. Shoot me a PM if you have troubles.
Old 04-26-2017, 04:39 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by icspres
Picked up the Infiniti reference 3.5's, but after reading some reviews, went with Polk MM521's for the doors.

So since I have a non-bose system, and the aftermarket kenwood head unit is plenty loud as is until I decide to add a true sub later, do I understand correctly that I can expect roughly the same volume from the the replacement speakers without an additional amp?

Thanks...
Hey guys. The speakers are here. Would love an answer from someone smarter than me on the amp issue. Non-bose head unit and speakers, I replace the speakers with the Infiniti and Polk referenced above. What kind of change in volume to expect?

Thanks!
Old 04-26-2017, 11:38 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by icspres
Hey guys. The speakers are here. Would love an answer from someone smarter than me on the amp issue. Non-bose head unit and speakers, I replace the speakers with the Infiniti and Polk referenced above. What kind of change in volume to expect?

Thanks!
Eh, went ahead and bought the amp. Can't wait.
Old 06-21-2017, 12:13 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by icspres
Hey guys. The speakers are here. Would love an answer from someone smarter than me on the amp issue. Non-bose head unit and speakers, I replace the speakers with the Infiniti and Polk referenced above. What kind of change in volume to expect?

Thanks!
Just a brutally honest bump, I made a mistake going with the Polks for the doors. They're crap. Review I read must have been crap, too. Oh well, live and learn. The infinities are decent, nice and bright which I like. But the car desperately needs a sub and now the mid-bass is worse than factory. On a high note, no pun intended, all six stock speakers were blown so the Polk's are still better overall, but would have done better to have spent a little more.
Old 06-23-2017, 12:41 AM
  #23  
Dion Houng-Lee
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Hmmm what midbass did you put in the doors and are you feeding it low frequencies only?
Originally Posted by icspres
Just a brutally honest bump, I made a mistake going with the Polks for the doors. They're crap. Review I read must have been crap, too. Oh well, live and learn. The infinities are decent, nice and bright which I like. But the car desperately needs a sub and now the mid-bass is worse than factory. On a high note, no pun intended, all six stock speakers were blown so the Polk's are still better overall, but would have done better to have spent a little more.
Old 06-23-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Dion Houng-Lee
Hmmm what midbass did you put in the doors and are you feeding it low frequencies only?
Polk. Don't recall the exact model number. Was looking for a best in class, cost effective solution and read a review or two, decided to take a chance. I don't know what frequencies are being sent to them. I'm getting a sub installed, too, and will get that guy to try to optimize them as best possible at that time.
Old 06-23-2017, 10:12 AM
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I'm pretty sure the fact that the door speakers are subs was discussed earlier in this thread. As such, it's pretty obvious that they're only being fed low frequencies - I'm not sure of the crossover point, but suffice it to say that your full range Polk speakers can't possibly sound ok...
Old 06-24-2017, 01:53 AM
  #26  
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You also mentioned getting an amp but if your running the polks off the stock amp it will sound like crap. the stock door speakers are subs and 2ohms while I am guessing the polls are 4ohms and full range. If this is the case it's not the speakers fault.
Old 06-24-2017, 08:08 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Dion Houng-Lee
You also mentioned getting an amp but if your running the polks off the stock amp it will sound like crap. the stock door speakers are subs and 2ohms while I am guessing the polls are 4ohms and full range. If this is the case it's not the speakers fault.
​​​​​​
The stock amp is out, replaced with a Kenwood and the door speakers appear to be wired to the sub channel. I'm throwing a minimalist sub in there in a few weeks and will get that shop to see if they can optimize at all, channels, frequencies, etc. Not really my area of expertise. We'll see.
Old 11-27-2017, 04:37 PM
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I cant find the MM521's anywhere anymore. I'm currently looking at these for the doors, anyone give me a reason on why they wouldn't work?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R50...fx.html?tp=105


Here are the wrnings that Crutchfield gives me.
  • To get full-range sound from your aftermarket speakers, you'll have to bypass the factory amplifier by splicing input and output wires together.
  • Replacing the 1- or 2-ohm factory speaker with a higher-impedance aftermarket speaker will result in lower volume levels.
  • The factory woofer in this location only receives bass frequencies from its amplifier. Replacement speakers will only reproduce bass.



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