Potential Purchase - 2002 Carrera
#16
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Regarding that hood - I'm pretty sure it's an illusion in the picture, because I opened and closed the hood a couple times and I think I would have noticed it - I remember being surprised at how "flat" the hood fit when closed into the bumper. But it's possible, and I'll look closely at it next time I see it.
It's nice to hear so many people telling me not to go overboard on preventative maintenance. I don't want to waste money on the car - I just want to do what I can to make it last. So I'll spend some time this winter planning out what really needs to be done on the car in the spring. I'll do a lot of the work myself, and my dad owns a shop with lifts and all the tools I need, which is very helpful.
I've been talking to the guys at Munks, and I believe I'll have the PPI done there. They seem like a really cool shop. But one friend has advised that I get the PPI done at a dealership, since they may have a better scan tool, and they also may know these cars the best. Do you guys have any preference, independent or dealer, when getting a PPI done?
It's nice to hear so many people telling me not to go overboard on preventative maintenance. I don't want to waste money on the car - I just want to do what I can to make it last. So I'll spend some time this winter planning out what really needs to be done on the car in the spring. I'll do a lot of the work myself, and my dad owns a shop with lifts and all the tools I need, which is very helpful.
I've been talking to the guys at Munks, and I believe I'll have the PPI done there. They seem like a really cool shop. But one friend has advised that I get the PPI done at a dealership, since they may have a better scan tool, and they also may know these cars the best. Do you guys have any preference, independent or dealer, when getting a PPI done?
Often a new owner sees the leading edge lower and believes it is wrong and adjusts this up and then regrets it.
But to have one side with a gap like that and I note the gap along the fenders and the front trunk lid don't look all the uniform either is a red flag.
Now what can happen is someone shuts the lid without knowing the proper technique and this can bend the hood and the hood develops a wave. The sales people refer to this as the potato chip look and always try to catch an uninformed shopper before he closes the hood incorrectly.
Still that can't explain the uneven front trunk lid to fender gaps.
At the car open the front trunk lid and look at all the lid and fender fasteners to see if any have been wrenched on or even if they have been moved out of position. This can be sign of some (poor) body work.
Also, check the front trunk opening for any signs of non-uniformity between the two long sides of the front trunk.
#17
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
as others said - service records would not be a deal killer. If car looks well cared for - chances are it was - and even if it had regular oil changes it doesn't mean something major isn't about to happen.
As part art of ppi - make sure they pull oil filter , inspect for debris , and give you a sample to send to lab for analysis.
Make sure over -revs are read out of dme
I would also not do water pump, ims, rms unless there is sign of a problem. Change oil, install magnetic drain plug and inspect plug and filter after 1k miles if you are paranoid - a lot cheaper than pulling the transmission. If rms is leaking - ok - maybe ok to do that (and then ims , aos , oil cooler o-rings - while you are in there). Same for thermostat and water pump - any sign of bearing play/noise/coolant staining ? (Have them remove belt in ppi and check all that).
Yes - at 100k miles , many of these items are already likely to have been replaced once and could be due for replacement again soon - add to that alternator, ignition switch , window regulators (so the Windows drop when you pull door handle from outside and inside ?) - and many of the other things you read about on these forums.
budget a couple of $k per year for maintenance , drive , enjoy , and sure you could have major engine issue , soon , or in 10 years - but if you are too paranoid about that - get a Honda
As part art of ppi - make sure they pull oil filter , inspect for debris , and give you a sample to send to lab for analysis.
Make sure over -revs are read out of dme
I would also not do water pump, ims, rms unless there is sign of a problem. Change oil, install magnetic drain plug and inspect plug and filter after 1k miles if you are paranoid - a lot cheaper than pulling the transmission. If rms is leaking - ok - maybe ok to do that (and then ims , aos , oil cooler o-rings - while you are in there). Same for thermostat and water pump - any sign of bearing play/noise/coolant staining ? (Have them remove belt in ppi and check all that).
Yes - at 100k miles , many of these items are already likely to have been replaced once and could be due for replacement again soon - add to that alternator, ignition switch , window regulators (so the Windows drop when you pull door handle from outside and inside ?) - and many of the other things you read about on these forums.
budget a couple of $k per year for maintenance , drive , enjoy , and sure you could have major engine issue , soon , or in 10 years - but if you are too paranoid about that - get a Honda
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#18
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
IMHO, Porsche dealerships typically stick to shop manuals and guidelines. Plus, they tend to see more newer cars than older cars and a 996 in their shop or on their lot might even be considered a rarity. Also, you don't know about tenure of the shop mechanics... Could be a bunch of young kids who specialize in nothing more than parts swapping. You'll likely pay more for PPI at a P-car dealer, too.
Indy shops, on the other hand, get to see more of the older cars and are more likely to read forums and be up on the trends of "discovery" that forums and online research reveal. Most good indy shops will have the ability to read proper codes and identify overrevs and such.
Indy shop might be more likely to do a drain and strain of the oil (and re-use vs. a dealer, too...
Either way, if you're going too be really thorough, I suggest you go to Blackstone's web site and have them mail you an oil sample mailing kit first. Take that with you to the PPI and ask the shop to collect a little sample of that oil to send off for analysis.
Indy shops, on the other hand, get to see more of the older cars and are more likely to read forums and be up on the trends of "discovery" that forums and online research reveal. Most good indy shops will have the ability to read proper codes and identify overrevs and such.
Indy shop might be more likely to do a drain and strain of the oil (and re-use vs. a dealer, too...
Either way, if you're going too be really thorough, I suggest you go to Blackstone's web site and have them mail you an oil sample mailing kit first. Take that with you to the PPI and ask the shop to collect a little sample of that oil to send off for analysis.
#19
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
IMHO, Porsche dealerships typically stick to shop manuals and guidelines. Plus, they tend to see more newer cars than older cars and a 996 in their shop or on their lot might even be considered a rarity. Also, you don't know about tenure of the shop mechanics... Could be a bunch of young kids who specialize in nothing more than parts swapping. You'll likely pay more for PPI at a P-car dealer, too.
Indy shops, on the other hand, get to see more of the older cars and are more likely to read forums and be up on the trends of "discovery" that forums and online research reveal. Most good indy shops will have the ability to read proper codes and identify overrevs and such.
Indy shop might be more likely to do a drain and strain of the oil (and re-use vs. a dealer, too...
Either way, if you're going too be really thorough, I suggest you go to Blackstone's web site and have them mail you an oil sample mailing kit first. Take that with you to the PPI and ask the shop to collect a little sample of that oil to send off for analysis.
Indy shops, on the other hand, get to see more of the older cars and are more likely to read forums and be up on the trends of "discovery" that forums and online research reveal. Most good indy shops will have the ability to read proper codes and identify overrevs and such.
Indy shop might be more likely to do a drain and strain of the oil (and re-use vs. a dealer, too...
Either way, if you're going too be really thorough, I suggest you go to Blackstone's web site and have them mail you an oil sample mailing kit first. Take that with you to the PPI and ask the shop to collect a little sample of that oil to send off for analysis.
So the dealership figured an hour of time for the PPI at $159, plus another $400 if I want to have the filter examined.
The indy is quoting $325 for the PPI, plus whatever it's going to cost to have them look at the filter. I guess I need to call them again to talk about it....the person I spoke to on the phone didn't seem to know much about checking the filter on these cars.
Is this how much a PPI generally costs if I want to get some idea of what's going on inside the engine? Is a complete oil change required to examine the filter?
#20
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yeah, I'd feel better with an indy shop. But I'm having a hard time with the cost of this PPI - the indy shop gave me a quote of $325 for the PPI, and that does not include the cost of examining the oil filter. They didn't seem to be able to give me a real quote as to how much more checking the oil filter will cost. I spoke with a dealership, and they said that if I wanted to have the filter examined, they would essentially have to do an oil change on the car - and that costs $400!
So the dealership figured an hour of time for the PPI at $159, plus another $400 if I want to have the filter examined.
The indy is quoting $325 for the PPI, plus whatever it's going to cost to have them look at the filter. I guess I need to call them again to talk about it....the person I spoke to on the phone didn't seem to know much about checking the filter on these cars.
Is this how much a PPI generally costs if I want to get some idea of what's going on inside the engine? Is a complete oil change required to examine the filter?
So the dealership figured an hour of time for the PPI at $159, plus another $400 if I want to have the filter examined.
The indy is quoting $325 for the PPI, plus whatever it's going to cost to have them look at the filter. I guess I need to call them again to talk about it....the person I spoke to on the phone didn't seem to know much about checking the filter on these cars.
Is this how much a PPI generally costs if I want to get some idea of what's going on inside the engine? Is a complete oil change required to examine the filter?
Yes, in order to inspect the oil filter, an oil change needs to be performed.
#22
Intermediate
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I bought a 2004 back in 2012 with little to no records and had the IMS done for peace of mind. You might want to consider the same and you should be ok because the amount of miles this one has indicates it wasn't neglected. I feel the same way about records but I am guessing the seller is asking ~20k and doesn't want to waste time haggling after the PPI.
I miss my 996. At the time, it was trouble free and a great compliment to my 2005 4Runner.
I miss my 996. At the time, it was trouble free and a great compliment to my 2005 4Runner.
#24
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you want to drop the oil and look at the filter, I would want new oil put in, and not the hokey put in filter while oil is still dripping everywhere method.
#25
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Macster, very descriptive info on how the hood should fit. Thanks. I'm going to see the car again tomorrow night, and will make sure to give the hood fitment and hardware a proper look.
It will be nice to begin ownership with a fresh oil change, so I'll just plan to do that during the PPI. I was surprised by the cost - probably because I've never really paid to have my oil changed.
It will be nice to begin ownership with a fresh oil change, so I'll just plan to do that during the PPI. I was surprised by the cost - probably because I've never really paid to have my oil changed.
#27
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How does one adjust the leading edge, the latch or some other way? Searched but couldn't find.