USNA1970

Probably never removed in 14 years. I am not having a spark plug or coil pack issue right now. I am just being pro-active with spark plugs. Then when it's time to do a coil pack, all this stuff with come apart much easier as the bolts are new etc.

Fracture

consider the above tools, even with the mufflers off it's somewhat difficult

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...park_Plugs.htm

USNA1970

I definitely want to get that right angle bit driver kit. I have lots of extensions and swivels but I can totally see that bit driver helping. Maybe like this one.

JayG

I wouild assume that if you are removing the coil packs, you probubly are going to replace them, unless you are just doing plugs.

the new coil packs I bought came with new bolts, so no need to go to a hardware store and get generic bolts

USNA1970

JayG, I was only going to do plugs at this time. The good thing about doing this job is renewing all the connections (plugs, coils, heat shields.) Then when it's time to replace a bad coil, i'll know that all the bolts I need to go through are basically new.

DK570

A few things:
1. Use Aerokroil or CRC Freeze Off, they work much better than PB Blaster. Be sure to read the directions on the Freeze Off, as it's used differently than a normal penetrating oil.
2. Remove the mufflers, you'll probably break some rusted hardware in the process, but I can't imagine doing this job with them in place. Leave the bumper alone.
3. Replace the coils now. You don't want to suddenly have severe misfire problems in the middle of winter. The coils crack, and moisture gets in. There is no point in doing the labor twice.
4. Replace all hardware with A4 stainless whenever possible. Ignore zinc coated steel, that offers very little corrosion protection.
5. Be cautious of the threaded wall on the valve cover. That aluminum is very thin, and likely very corroded. You don't want to crack the valve cover by applying too much force to a bolt.

USNA1970

That is helpful. I was thinking about getting the muffler to cat clamps and the other two botls that hold the muffler bracket. Since I don't have a misfire or spark plug problem yet, it might be a good idea to just plan this out and make it easier. Especially since I already know I am going to war with the coil pack bolts, lol.

Vdubjetta02

I will be doing new coils & Plugs when my X pipe gets installed.

I have 75,000 miles and to my knowledge am on stock coils/plugs

fpb111

I just jacked the car up, removed the wheels and shields and then was able to do the job with the tool kits that Fracture suggested and a pair of long handle needle nose pliers. I did not remove the mufflers. Mine was not rusted like OPs.
Spark plug kit KD 41740, the extensions are attached so you won't be fishing for the socket/plug after it falls off, and Kobalt 24 piece right angle driver kit bar code 099198852324

Jackstand Louie

take a look at your spark plug valve cover tubes while you're in there. Now would be good time to replace it you see any leakage. Easy DIY with all you are doing.

See..

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-change-2.html

Scroll to second post. I had some seepage, been dry as a bone since.

USNA1970

I agree. I'll hit the bolts a few times with PB Blaster. Then I will take the heat shield off on the side I am working. Get all the tools ready and then take the car for a drive to get valve cover up to temp. Once I bring car back, I hit coil pack bolts with freeze off and hope that this scenario creates the least amount of resistance for these bolts. I'll obviously be trying the this on the easiest access coil pack. If it works well it will give me the confidence that I can manage the harder rear cylinders.

Ahsai

Those bolts have very little toque on them so hopefully they're not as difficult to remove as they appear. One suggestion is use a pick to absolutely clean out all the dirt and rust inside the hex and make sure your hex bit is fully inserted squarely before applying torque.

Also the penetrating oil needs to get between the coil and the cam cover where the threads enagaged. Not sure if freeze off overspray on a hot cam cover is a good idea.

USNA1970

Definitely going to avoid spraying the freeze off on the area until it's only warm and not overly hot. I may try to just get this done with PB Blaster and use freeze off as a second resort.

USNA1970

Good news. I tackled the passenger side plugs. I got the right angle bit driver and I had a few 3/8 extensions. I learned that taking the electrical plug off the back most coil pack is tough. I also learned to pull the cable down and fwd a little so I could plug the coil pack prior to securing the coil pack with bolts. Other than that. I felt like it wasn't so bad. I didn't remove any mufflers or bumpers.

I attached pics of the tools I used. I also posted the pics of the old plugs. Time to do the drivers side now.

USNA1970

Ok, last update. I drove the car around for about 35 minutes this morning. All six plugs replaced. I dint' notice much difference in idle or throttle response. However, the occasional stutter I was getting is gone. I thought maybe I was getting that from poor BJs gas or O2 sensor, mass air flow, fuel injector who knows. Didn't really want to start replacing things as my luck would be spending $1200 and fixing it on the last thing. Not that it is bad to do that as you get all your maintenance done. At the end of the day, the very slight hesitation I was getting was not really that noticeable. But seems like it was getting a little more frequent these last two months. I have no idea when the plugs were changed last, but my car has 60k miles. The plugs came out very easy (they didn't look terrible or great) and the rusted coil pack bolts offered no resistance. Good day for me.