When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I did have an event, described earlier where I cleaned the K&N filter and may have gotten too much oil on it. About two weeks later I got two codes relating to MAF and O2 but it was running and idling fine. .
Probably worth cleaning everything that may be sensitive to oil contamination ? Oil may have pooled in places so just a quick wipe of the MAF would be insufficient?
easy enough to pull out and clean...I have a can of MAF cleaner anyway. And, check the other areas mentioned.
FYI, also, I pulled every fuse in the block and checked...all clean, all good. i did not check all the relays but the fuel pump relay is brand new, came with the pump.
I did not read through all the posts. Thus; this may be a repeat suggestion.
I had a similar issue and turned out to be the FOI relay in the rear compartment area. The car would start and then die. Eventually, it would not start at all. The FOI relay was replaced and all is good.
I did not read through all the posts. Thus; this may be a repeat suggestion.
I had a similar issue and turned out to be the FOI relay in the rear compartment area. The car would start and then die. Eventually, it would not start at all. The FOI relay was replaced and all is good.
Definitely worth checking. If I understand you correctly, that's either relay #1 or #2. Jackstand, you can swap relay #8 (engine compartment fan) with #1 or #2 since all 3 are the same relay. See this relay diagram
Thanks, I tried that and no change....but, at least now I know where the other relays, the 40 amp fuse and the DME are and how to get to them. And also, how to access the tops of the struts.
HOWEVER, next I unplugged the MAF and it fired right up strong and idled really well!...possibly better than it has idled on cold start in a long time.
I found the problem but haven't solved it yet...had to pack it in. I'll start with a cleaning of the MAF and check the voltages now that I can also check idle voltage.
Thanks for all the support and feedback..strength in numbers. I'll go ahead and install the pressure regulator when it arrives since all these parts appear to be original and pushing 17 years old.
Still cant get the key fobs to work after running the engine and going through the sequence. But at least now I'll be driving to the dealership.
Last edited by Jackstand Louie; 11-07-2016 at 11:27 PM.
Let's try to be specific about why unplugging the MAF worked?
Because it is coated with oil and can not accurately 'read' a signal ?In fact ,when coated with oil it gives a false signal.Hence the poor running with it connected.
If so, as I suggested previously, the entire oil-soaked system needs to be cleaned of oil contamination. I wonder if there is the early stages of an AOS leak also? Let's hope a simple vacuum test can eliminate that tedious job?
Over to the experts.
I've been keeping an eye on the AOS for about a year and a half since I found a leak in the lower hose at the AOS. Turns out, someone previously put the wrong style clamp on there or it just came loose but I had leaking oil up there. I fixed it and I've been watching the throttle body. I cleaned it (interior surface and t plate) about 9 months ago then looked at it again about a month ago when I cleaned the K&N filter....it had little if any new accumulation but that could have changed. I'll get a good look on the inside this weekend.
It occurs to me that I can use the business end of my airlift pump to measure crankcase pressure at the cap without having to poke holes in anything and get an actual vacuum. I have not seen any other symptoms (white smoke, etc.).....till now of course.
Primates? More like the Borg collective mind.
Last edited by Jackstand Louie; 11-11-2016 at 11:11 PM.
Cleaned MAF pretty good with MAF cleaner. Looked at it under glass before and after, it actually looked pretty clean before I cleaned it. No oil residue in the intake tube and throttle body to speak of, very very minor amount in the TB.
I took readings on OBD with the key on, engine not running, MAF plugged in and reading with the engine idling and MAF unplugged. I kicked the idle up a bit just to make sure I was getting a reading on the throttle position sensor. See below. It wont idle with the MAF plugged in. I get nothing in the MAF department (no temperature with key on).
I did not see a feature yet for MAF voltage but I need to look further. Usually though it will show proper temperature with the key on, engine not running.
I did get several pending codes with the MAF unplugged...all related I believe to the MAF being out. 6 injector open circuit codes, MAF open circuit, air flow issue, etc.
Possibly bad MAF sensor but dont want to jump to conclusion. I was thinking to pull out the schematic and check voltage, etc. that I should be seeing at the plug without the plug being inserted.
Pin 2 shows a significantly low voltage. Is this caused by a low state of charge in the battery or voltage drop somewhere in the circuit to the MAF ?
Either may be a good issue to rectify?
low charge from multiple starts with very little run time. I went back and checked and it reflects what I see at the battery. When idling I get 13 plus volts on the dash and similar at the charge post.
11-07-2016, 01:10 PM
