A good puzzle...
#1
Racer
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First, I did read the owners manual cover to cover.
I just got the car, and the trunk light didnt work. The engine bay light does.
Today, I accessed the 2 pin connector for the frunk latch, cleaned it, and reconnected the two halves. The light went on immediately. Yay!
I laid my phone, recording video, in the trunk and closed it to verify the light goes out. Upon re-opening the trunk, the light remained out.
I'm not sure any of the switches/components in the system are defective. Is there some quirk in the security system programming I don't know about?
2003 C4S
Thanks in advance.
I just got the car, and the trunk light didnt work. The engine bay light does.
Today, I accessed the 2 pin connector for the frunk latch, cleaned it, and reconnected the two halves. The light went on immediately. Yay!
I laid my phone, recording video, in the trunk and closed it to verify the light goes out. Upon re-opening the trunk, the light remained out.
I'm not sure any of the switches/components in the system are defective. Is there some quirk in the security system programming I don't know about?
2003 C4S
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by jz993; 10-28-2016 at 02:37 AM.
#3
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The bulb carrier has a constant 12V+ connection and a switched ground signal that is sent to it by the CLU when the latch microswitch is triggered.
Put a multimeter on the bulb carrier and a solid ground to make sure it is always getting 12V+, then test the negative side of the bulb carrier to make sure it's getting a switched ground when hood is open.
Put a multimeter on the bulb carrier and a solid ground to make sure it is always getting 12V+, then test the negative side of the bulb carrier to make sure it's getting a switched ground when hood is open.
#5
Racer
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Probably, but I can't find it. You have to remove the latch?
BTW, Today I hooked up a multimeter to battery ground, and probed both bulb wires. Each had 12V ! Whaaaa?
I couldn't recreate yesterdays dc/reconnect trick that turned it on. The bulb is still good.
Why couldn't they just stick with the old plunger type switch...
BTW, Today I hooked up a multimeter to battery ground, and probed both bulb wires. Each had 12V ! Whaaaa?
I couldn't recreate yesterdays dc/reconnect trick that turned it on. The bulb is still good.
Why couldn't they just stick with the old plunger type switch...
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)