Notices
996 Forum 1999-2005
Sponsored by:

996 fixed wing wiring harness how-to

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-24-2016, 06:35 PM
  #1  
RSQ911
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
RSQ911's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 180
Received 26 Likes on 13 Posts
Default 996 fixed wing wiring harness how-to

As posted in another thread, my wonderful wife got me an early Christmas/Birthday present of a GT3/Aerokit 2 style wing (from another forum member).

The top three areas to address (after choosing a wing), based on forum threads, are the following:
wiring harness
rear emblem/badge
front lip/spoiler/splitter

If one does a search on “996 fixed wing wiring harness”, you will find a great deal of posts, some dating back to the point of harnesses being $50!

There have usually been two choices, modify/hack the stock pop-up wiring harness, or purchase a new fixed wing version.

I decided to purchase a new/purpose made harness. Well, there seems to be confusion which one fits. The following two oem part numbers fit 1999-2004 996, non turbo:
996.612.070.51 (fixed wing without 4th brake light)
996.612.070.04 (fixed wing WITH 4th brake light)

Yes, I know that “technically” the parts say “third brake light”, but “technically” the third brake light is just below the rear window in the body.

Once I confirmed the part numbers, pricing has “flip-flopped” over the last decade, and the fixed wing without the brake light used to be around $50, and the brake light version was around $110. Well…….. today, the brake light version is around $120, and the non brake light version is $350-390!

So, the more expensive harness comes with less wiring, one less plug and grommet, and costs three times as much! As my wife pointed out to me, most fixed wings do NOT have a fourth brake light, so the demand is higher for part 51, “justifying” the supply and demand pricing.

I opted to go with part 04, with the brake light, modify it, and save $250.

You will need electrical tape, wire cutters/snips, and small tip scissors.

Once you unravel the harness, you will notice four plugs: main connector, fan, work light, brake light. The brake light plug has a foam sock over it and the harness loom also has a rubber grommet, the wire color coding is red/black and brown. The tubing or loom has a sheathed main body that has three separate sections that are brought together in the middle by a fourth tube.

Take the brake light plug and cut the wire tubing just down to where it meets the main split exposing the wires and a ground wire (brown) “Y” shaped connector of three brown wires. Cut the power wire (red/black), just above where it goes into the main loom, and then cut the brown wire where it is attached at the “Y”. Next, pull the red/black all the way through the main loom where it is attached at the main plug/connector. At this point, you can cut it where it attaches to the main plug, or what I did which was to leave a couple of inches that I tucked back into the loom just in case I wanted to reattach anything.
If you notice from the pictures of the two different wiring harnesses, the 51 has the fan and work light plugs going the same direction, the 04 has them going opposite directions with the brake light and fan going the same.

After removing the brake light plug, you will need to cut the center or “fourth” tubing that used to join the three plugs together. This is just a split so the fan plug can flip over to the work light plug, forming a straight line from the main plug/connector. You will notice after splitting/cutting the fourth tubing, that the black wire from the fan is bent in a “U”, straighten this out. Now you will gently push the brown wire “Y” connector down into the main body tubing towards the main plug/connector. Lay the fan and work light plugs side by side, use electrical tape, and neatly close the tubing splits, and you are done! The new fixed wing harness has a heat braiding from the main plug up about a third of the way to protect the wiring and tubing from heat and opening and closing. Note: your spoiler check light will still come on at start up, and shuts off when pulling away, this is normal, and you will not get the light after that.

If you have any questions, let me know, if I forgot something sorry, and there are a couple of pictures from the internet from ECS Tuning's site, the rest are mine. I am not affiliated with them, did not purchase anything from them, but want to give credit.
Attached Images        
Old 10-24-2016, 10:06 PM
  #2  
Slakker
Rennlist Member
 
Slakker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 4,759
Received 255 Likes on 115 Posts
Default

Great write up!
Old 10-24-2016, 10:24 PM
  #3  
dan_189
Race Car
 
dan_189's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3,771
Received 133 Likes on 117 Posts
Default

Very good write up!

You think $390 is bad... its almost $600 down here in Australia

Anyway I did the same as you, I have a wiring diagram I drew up of exactly where each wire goes in the harness ill post it up tonight.

I ended up getting an original harness the only difference is the original is slightly shorter and there is a zip tie with a clip on it that clips into the body under, roughly under where the right hand side tail light is.
Old 10-24-2016, 11:42 PM
  #4  
RSQ911
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
RSQ911's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 180
Received 26 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Thanks guys!
Dan, I went with factory/oem too, and glad you mentioned the length, that was another difference I forgot to mention.

The 51 harness is slightly shorter than the 04, probably half a foot.
Old 11-28-2017, 09:23 AM
  #5  
BTERRY1
Racer
 
BTERRY1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 317
Received 23 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

Reviving this older thread. Has anyone done this recently? It looks as if you just clip the power to the light. On the ground wire do you need to splice it to another ground or just burry in the loom. How does all this affect the third light visible under the rear window? Thanks in advance.
​​​​​
Old 11-29-2017, 04:33 PM
  #6  
dan_189
Race Car
 
dan_189's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3,771
Received 133 Likes on 117 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by BTERRY1
Reviving this older thread. Has anyone done this recently? It looks as if you just clip the power to the light. On the ground wire do you need to splice it to another ground or just burry in the loom. How does all this affect the third light visible under the rear window? Thanks in advance.
​​​​​
Do you have a wing with a 3rd brake light or without a 3rd brake light?
​​​​​
​​​​Basically you splice three ground wires together.
Old 11-30-2017, 09:41 AM
  #7  
BTERRY1
Racer
 
BTERRY1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 317
Received 23 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

I have a version without. Thanks for the info.
Old 11-30-2017, 08:32 PM
  #8  
dan_189
Race Car
 
dan_189's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3,771
Received 133 Likes on 117 Posts
Default

Here you go:




Originally Posted by jrrhdmust
Well thanks for all the compliments!

Being the cheap AR engineer that I am, I went through the Beck Arnley Manual and figured out which wires to splice together.

So attached is the wiring diagram I followed. I got the first A2-A5 splice from someone here and verified it; I came up with the A6.

Here is how I did it, when I removed the pop up spoiler I cut the wiring harness part that awached to the two switches on the factory pop-up spoiler. I wish I would have given myself a little more room to work with the wires were I cut it. This made my 3rd brake light inop as well as receiving the spoiler not deployed warning and light. The spoiler I installed did not have a light.

So where I cut the wires on the spoiler wiring harness, I found the corresponding wires to the diagram and spliced them. I spliced the Grey/Brown (Spoiler warning) to the Brown to the Brown/Orange (Third Brake Light) right were I cut the wires to remove the factory spoiler. My third brake light works as well as disabling the spoiler warning and light.

If my spoiler had a light, I could have hooked up the original brake light wires to it, and then instead of splicing the Brown/Orange you would splice the Brown/Black.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...llation-2.html
Old 12-01-2017, 09:27 AM
  #9  
BTERRY1
Racer
 
BTERRY1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 317
Received 23 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

Awesome. Thank you



Quick Reply: 996 fixed wing wiring harness how-to



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 04:15 AM.