Which compact lithium jump starter battery works with our cars – not as simple as it
#16
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Oh no wonder I don't recall any recent threads with unresolved large parasitic drain. That thread was solved and closed.
Let us know when you get back at it again. Large persistent drain should be relatively easy to trace.
Let us know when you get back at it again. Large persistent drain should be relatively easy to trace.
Closest thing to a prior thread is my post in Targa996's thread which you extensively contributed to:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ery-drain.html
Just as Targa996 finally found that his alternator was warm, somewhere on my to-do list is seeing if it, or anything else I can reach, stays warm a few days after driving the car. If that fails, next step is to buy an infra red thermometer and go warm spot hunting again. Solving that would of course be even better than finding a good jump starter. But I'm not optimistic, and I'm also not willing to put as much time into it as Targa 996.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ery-drain.html
Just as Targa996 finally found that his alternator was warm, somewhere on my to-do list is seeing if it, or anything else I can reach, stays warm a few days after driving the car. If that fails, next step is to buy an infra red thermometer and go warm spot hunting again. Solving that would of course be even better than finding a good jump starter. But I'm not optimistic, and I'm also not willing to put as much time into it as Targa 996.
#17
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So I did some measuring: Cables that span 115 cm (45") can safely reach the standard positive and negative connection points. Still not sure of the alternate connection point in the front, but if I guessed right, a 35 cm / 14" span is fine.
#18
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The chrome loop you mentioned in the rear of the door jam (the door latch locks on to it) is an excellent ground, but not the only one available. Half way between the two heavily painted door hinges, is the door brake bolted to the front of the door jam. This is not painted (looks like black zinc plated) and is an excellent electrical conductor and is close enough to the +post in the fuse box..
#19
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Yes, RS10, that is as good of a ground as the chrome door latch striker. Keep in mind when hook up the jumper battery the alarm will sound. Turn it off by turning the key in the door from unlock to lock.
#20
Burning Brakes
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We have a Norco genus 400 amp (you can get bigger ones up to 1000A) starter pack that lives under the driver’s seat. The cables + clamps have a 22 inch spread, more than enough to access any battery posts and also the post in the fuse panel. The chrome loop you mentioned in the rear of the door jam (the door latch locks on to it) is an excellent ground, but not the only one available. Half way between the two heavily painted door hinges, is the door brake bolted to the front of the door jam. This is not painted (looks like black zinc plated) and is an excellent electrical conductor and is close enough to the +post in the fuse box..
We checked all these contingencies when we got the jump pack. We loaned it out to friends and it jump started their huge SUV instantly. I like the idea that I could take it camping and it would run anything with a USB port forever, and it has a flashlight if I have to go out of the tent at night and pee in the woods.
We checked all these contingencies when we got the jump pack. We loaned it out to friends and it jump started their huge SUV instantly. I like the idea that I could take it camping and it would run anything with a USB port forever, and it has a flashlight if I have to go out of the tent at night and pee in the woods.
#21
Rennlist Member
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Great question from OP. I have a Weego that I put in the frunk whenever I do a roadtrip, but I've never actually used it to start either car. I have a big-azz portable jumper - I don't recall the brand, but it is what the flatbed guy used to get the C2 going when the battery crapped out a few years ago. I got the Weego simply because the big one is freaking huge relative to our cars' storage areas. I have used it to crank over a Harley, but now I need to find a non-starting car or SUV to see how it goes.
#22
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Would it not work to connect the portable battery cables to regular old jumper cables that are in turn connected to the "proper" engine bay connectors? Do the jumper cables add too much resistance to be effective?
#23
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You could do that if you wanted or needed to. Quality jumper cables have thicker, heavier wire proportional to the length, so they would not add any appreciable extra resistance. Because these little jumper batteries are so small and light, they sit on top or right next to the car battery for the jump. As such they only need short, thin, lightweight flexible cables that fold up in the tiny bag/case with the battery kit.
#24
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Second, when you then hook up the positive and negative terminals in the car, you've now got two wires stretching from the jump starter, and somewhere along each wire there is now a big, uninsulated bare metal section (where the jump starter's cables clip to the standard jumper cables). What does it touch? Where do you position this part of the cables? On the car seat? On the carpet? On an oil stain on the garage floor?
Of course, if the cables were short enough, this section and the jump starter would be suspended in the air. Right in front of you. Possibly right at the wrong level ...
#25
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This probably varies from car to car. My owners manual says push the button on the key. The little paper hidden in the fuse box says turn the key. Or vice versa. I'm guessing each is right for some cars. Can't remember which is right for mine. Though I remember it took a LONG time to figure out that what the owner's manual said was wrong ... . (To be fair to Porsche, the original owners manual may also have been correct. I have a replacement from a different model year.)
#26
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Typically, either one of those actions will do the job. Key in the door is the more reliable one though if the electrical system is temporarily scrambled by the battery problem.