Another Key Thread
08-17-2016 | 05:49 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 290
Likes: 17
From: Wisconsin
Another Key Thread
I've searched and found a ton of threads about keys, but figure I'll start another thread and see if anyone has anything new to add.
Here is my situation: I got 2 keys with my car, the remote on one of them never worked. I didn't really care since I had 1 that did work used as the primary key, and the other was just a spare. Now the remote on my primary key stopped working. So, I have 2 keys, neither remote works. On one of them the red light turns on when you press a button, the other one does not.
Dealer is telling me it is much more difficult (expensive) to program a key if I don't have any key that currently works. Car is at the dealer now, but for some reason they can't look at it until tomorrow to determine my options. Unfortunately, I didn't read about the reversing polarity trick until today. I assume this is something the dealer would try? My primary key had been acting a little goofy, so I'm thinking that one is shot. My spare though still lights up, and maybe the trick would work for that one?
Probably unrelated, but I have noticed 2 other quirks recently.
1. When driving, the car sometimes likes to lock/unlock itself randomly. I'll notice the red lock light on the dash switch turn itself on/off randomly.
2. My passenger window sometimes does not like to be in the right position to open/close the door. I'm assuming this is the microswitch, but since i don't have passengers often, I haven't fixed this yet.
Any thoughts? Thanks.
Here is my situation: I got 2 keys with my car, the remote on one of them never worked. I didn't really care since I had 1 that did work used as the primary key, and the other was just a spare. Now the remote on my primary key stopped working. So, I have 2 keys, neither remote works. On one of them the red light turns on when you press a button, the other one does not.
Dealer is telling me it is much more difficult (expensive) to program a key if I don't have any key that currently works. Car is at the dealer now, but for some reason they can't look at it until tomorrow to determine my options. Unfortunately, I didn't read about the reversing polarity trick until today. I assume this is something the dealer would try? My primary key had been acting a little goofy, so I'm thinking that one is shot. My spare though still lights up, and maybe the trick would work for that one?
Probably unrelated, but I have noticed 2 other quirks recently.
1. When driving, the car sometimes likes to lock/unlock itself randomly. I'll notice the red lock light on the dash switch turn itself on/off randomly.
2. My passenger window sometimes does not like to be in the right position to open/close the door. I'm assuming this is the microswitch, but since i don't have passengers often, I haven't fixed this yet.
Any thoughts? Thanks.
08-17-2016 | 06:05 PM
#2
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 10,422
Likes: 214
From: SOcialist republic of CALifornia
1) If the doors are locking/unlocking while driving, that sounds to me a like a short - hopefully at the switch, rather than deep in the harness. You can pop the side of the horseshoe off fairly easily to inspect the lock/unlock switch and plug.
2) Could be a switch or it could be the window regulator - if you can hear the motor trying to drop the window when you lift the handle but nothing happens, it's likely the regulator; if it doesn't even try, it's likely a switch.
2) Could be a switch or it could be the window regulator - if you can hear the motor trying to drop the window when you lift the handle but nothing happens, it's likely the regulator; if it doesn't even try, it's likely a switch.
08-17-2016 | 06:17 PM
#3
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 19,032
Likes: 256
From: Centerton, AR
I've searched and found a ton of threads about keys, but figure I'll start another thread and see if anyone has anything new to add.
Here is my situation: I got 2 keys with my car, the remote on one of them never worked. I didn't really care since I had 1 that did work used as the primary key, and the other was just a spare. Now the remote on my primary key stopped working. So, I have 2 keys, neither remote works. On one of them the red light turns on when you press a button, the other one does not.
Dealer is telling me it is much more difficult (expensive) to program a key if I don't have any key that currently works. Car is at the dealer now, but for some reason they can't look at it until tomorrow to determine my options. Unfortunately, I didn't read about the reversing polarity trick until today. I assume this is something the dealer would try? My primary key had been acting a little goofy, so I'm thinking that one is shot. My spare though still lights up, and maybe the trick would work for that one?
Probably unrelated, but I have noticed 2 other quirks recently.
1. When driving, the car sometimes likes to lock/unlock itself randomly. I'll notice the red lock light on the dash switch turn itself on/off randomly.
2. My passenger window sometimes does not like to be in the right position to open/close the door. I'm assuming this is the microswitch, but since i don't have passengers often, I haven't fixed this yet.
Any thoughts? Thanks.
Here is my situation: I got 2 keys with my car, the remote on one of them never worked. I didn't really care since I had 1 that did work used as the primary key, and the other was just a spare. Now the remote on my primary key stopped working. So, I have 2 keys, neither remote works. On one of them the red light turns on when you press a button, the other one does not.
Dealer is telling me it is much more difficult (expensive) to program a key if I don't have any key that currently works. Car is at the dealer now, but for some reason they can't look at it until tomorrow to determine my options. Unfortunately, I didn't read about the reversing polarity trick until today. I assume this is something the dealer would try? My primary key had been acting a little goofy, so I'm thinking that one is shot. My spare though still lights up, and maybe the trick would work for that one?
Probably unrelated, but I have noticed 2 other quirks recently.
1. When driving, the car sometimes likes to lock/unlock itself randomly. I'll notice the red lock light on the dash switch turn itself on/off randomly.
2. My passenger window sometimes does not like to be in the right position to open/close the door. I'm assuming this is the microswitch, but since i don't have passengers often, I haven't fixed this yet.
Any thoughts? Thanks.
The doors locking on their own along with the passenger window's strange behavior is -- based on my experience with my Boxster -- likely due to a malfunctioning passenger door lock controller. This is a rather large alum/plastic housing that contains electro/mechanical hardware and along with "electro" some "intelligence". It is this intelligence that is probably at fault.
My local dealer tech queried the car's security system for errors and then removed the door card and tested the other switches in the hopes the problem would be with a switch but the problem unfortunately was with the door lock controller which is rather expensive compared to the door switches.
Just a caution: Anytime the car starts manifesting electrical gremlins you should check that the body water drains are not blocked and no water or signs of water (dampness) is present in the cabin. The security module is under the passenger seat and is especially at risk of damage if any water gets in the cabin.
Also, check that both door bottoms are dry. There is a membrane in each door that is glued to the inner door sheet metal. If this membrane detaches or is torn/ripped by someone inside the door not knowing what he's doing water can collect in the door and possibly to the point it can leak into the cabin.
08-17-2016 | 07:28 PM
#4
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 19,032
Likes: 256
From: Centerton, AR
I've searched and found a ton of threads about keys, but figure I'll start another thread and see if anyone has anything new to add.
Here is my situation: I got 2 keys with my car, the remote on one of them never worked. I didn't really care since I had 1 that did work used as the primary key, and the other was just a spare. Now the remote on my primary key stopped working. So, I have 2 keys, neither remote works. On one of them the red light turns on when you press a button, the other one does not.
Dealer is telling me it is much more difficult (expensive) to program a key if I don't have any key that currently works. Car is at the dealer now, but for some reason they can't look at it until tomorrow to determine my options. Unfortunately, I didn't read about the reversing polarity trick until today. I assume this is something the dealer would try? My primary key had been acting a little goofy, so I'm thinking that one is shot. My spare though still lights up, and maybe the trick would work for that one?
Probably unrelated, but I have noticed 2 other quirks recently.
1. When driving, the car sometimes likes to lock/unlock itself randomly. I'll notice the red lock light on the dash switch turn itself on/off randomly.
2. My passenger window sometimes does not like to be in the right position to open/close the door. I'm assuming this is the microswitch, but since i don't have passengers often, I haven't fixed this yet.
Any thoughts? Thanks.
Here is my situation: I got 2 keys with my car, the remote on one of them never worked. I didn't really care since I had 1 that did work used as the primary key, and the other was just a spare. Now the remote on my primary key stopped working. So, I have 2 keys, neither remote works. On one of them the red light turns on when you press a button, the other one does not.
Dealer is telling me it is much more difficult (expensive) to program a key if I don't have any key that currently works. Car is at the dealer now, but for some reason they can't look at it until tomorrow to determine my options. Unfortunately, I didn't read about the reversing polarity trick until today. I assume this is something the dealer would try? My primary key had been acting a little goofy, so I'm thinking that one is shot. My spare though still lights up, and maybe the trick would work for that one?
Probably unrelated, but I have noticed 2 other quirks recently.
1. When driving, the car sometimes likes to lock/unlock itself randomly. I'll notice the red lock light on the dash switch turn itself on/off randomly.
2. My passenger window sometimes does not like to be in the right position to open/close the door. I'm assuming this is the microswitch, but since i don't have passengers often, I haven't fixed this yet.
Any thoughts? Thanks.
Another problem I have noted over the years is occasionally a key will end up with its LED stuck on. Not sure what causes this but it occurs much less frequently, as in hardly ever now, after I stopped keeping my Porsche key (and any keys and stuff) in my pants pockets. Nowadays at home I empty my pockets into a handy bowl near the front door and at work I have a bowl on my desk I empty my pockets into so I don't walk around at either the home or office with my pockets full of Porsche and house keys and a money clip and a small bundle of credit cards, and one or two USB stick drives.
If this stuck on LED condition isn't noticed in time this can run down the key battery. So all a dead key could require is a new battery though to be safe (?) perhaps installing the old battery (or new battery) in upside down for a moment just in case the electrical circuit and electronics are in some goofy state would be advisable?
08-17-2016 | 08:12 PM
#5
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh
I just picked up 996 it only came with one key. I called both porsche dealers in the Pittsburgh area looking for a second key. One came in at $335 and the other one was $400. My question to both dealers was, does it cost more to have a key made if I lose the only key I had. Both replied that the only additional cost would be the tow.
So I would say that from my research, there is no additional cost if you do not have a working key. Unless of course the problem isn't with the key.
Add for myself I think I am going to look into a GPS chip so I can find my keys if I lose them.
So I would say that from my research, there is no additional cost if you do not have a working key. Unless of course the problem isn't with the key.
Add for myself I think I am going to look into a GPS chip so I can find my keys if I lose them.
08-18-2016 | 10:44 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 290
Likes: 17
From: Wisconsin
While I want to say, well, BS to the claim by the dealer it is much more difficult (and "expensive") to " program a key if I don't have any key that currently works" I have no real facts to go on other than I have had a few "dead" keys (keys in which the remote door lock/unlock or lid unlock buttons *did not* work) replaced and my dealer service department didn't indicate this presented any real difficulty. All that is required is I give the tech all 3 keys: the two smart keys and the one valet key; and presto chango in a while the bad key has been removed from the car's security system -- to free up room for the new key -- and the new key introduced to the car's security system and all is well again.
The doors locking on their own along with the passenger window's strange behavior is -- based on my experience with my Boxster -- likely due to a malfunctioning passenger door lock controller. This is a rather large alum/plastic housing that contains electro/mechanical hardware and along with "electro" some "intelligence". It is this intelligence that is probably at fault.
My local dealer tech queried the car's security system for errors and then removed the door card and tested the other switches in the hopes the problem would be with a switch but the problem unfortunately was with the door lock controller which is rather expensive compared to the door switches.
Just a caution: Anytime the car starts manifesting electrical gremlins you should check that the body water drains are not blocked and no water or signs of water (dampness) is present in the cabin. The security module is under the passenger seat and is especially at risk of damage if any water gets in the cabin.
Also, check that both door bottoms are dry. There is a membrane in each door that is glued to the inner door sheet metal. If this membrane detaches or is torn/ripped by someone inside the door not knowing what he's doing water can collect in the door and possibly to the point it can leak into the cabin.
The doors locking on their own along with the passenger window's strange behavior is -- based on my experience with my Boxster -- likely due to a malfunctioning passenger door lock controller. This is a rather large alum/plastic housing that contains electro/mechanical hardware and along with "electro" some "intelligence". It is this intelligence that is probably at fault.
My local dealer tech queried the car's security system for errors and then removed the door card and tested the other switches in the hopes the problem would be with a switch but the problem unfortunately was with the door lock controller which is rather expensive compared to the door switches.
Just a caution: Anytime the car starts manifesting electrical gremlins you should check that the body water drains are not blocked and no water or signs of water (dampness) is present in the cabin. The security module is under the passenger seat and is especially at risk of damage if any water gets in the cabin.
Also, check that both door bottoms are dry. There is a membrane in each door that is glued to the inner door sheet metal. If this membrane detaches or is torn/ripped by someone inside the door not knowing what he's doing water can collect in the door and possibly to the point it can leak into the cabin.
Good thinking checking for moisture. I have a cab, and haven't checked my drains for a few years.
08-18-2016 | 10:56 AM
#7
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: DFW Area
Just being ****, be careful how you use the term "non-working key." By example, does the key still manually lock/unlock the doors, and start the car in the ignition? In that case, I'd say a "non-working remote."
I had a similar experience to both of your issues. Firstly, I only had ONE manual key (key blade and "flashlight" head) when I purchased my car. As in no remote functionality at all. I just went to the dealer and they ordered a new key blade and remote head. Once the parts came in, I took the car to the dealer and they programmed the car to recognize the new key/remote combo. It was somewhere around $350-ish total for parts and labor.
Secondly, are you *sure* your car is locking/unlocking while driving? As in, do you *hear* the locks operating? My car does the same thing, but it's only the red light on the dash that comes on/off occasionally. No lock activation. If the light comes on and I press the unlock side of the panel switch, the locks click and I get the double-beep indicating a problem. My Durametric returned fault codes 47, 60, & 61, all of which dealt with microswitch issues.
I'm in DFW. The lock lite issue didn't occur until we got close to 100 deg temps a few weeks ago. This past week, temps dropped back into the 80's and the issue disappeared. On a side note, the Durametric explanation also said that the codes were just informational and "...it is not an indication that repair is needed."
Good luck with the dealer!
I had a similar experience to both of your issues. Firstly, I only had ONE manual key (key blade and "flashlight" head) when I purchased my car. As in no remote functionality at all. I just went to the dealer and they ordered a new key blade and remote head. Once the parts came in, I took the car to the dealer and they programmed the car to recognize the new key/remote combo. It was somewhere around $350-ish total for parts and labor.
Secondly, are you *sure* your car is locking/unlocking while driving? As in, do you *hear* the locks operating? My car does the same thing, but it's only the red light on the dash that comes on/off occasionally. No lock activation. If the light comes on and I press the unlock side of the panel switch, the locks click and I get the double-beep indicating a problem. My Durametric returned fault codes 47, 60, & 61, all of which dealt with microswitch issues.
I'm in DFW. The lock lite issue didn't occur until we got close to 100 deg temps a few weeks ago. This past week, temps dropped back into the 80's and the issue disappeared. On a side note, the Durametric explanation also said that the codes were just informational and "...it is not an indication that repair is needed."
Good luck with the dealer!
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08-18-2016 | 11:37 AM
#8
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 290
Likes: 17
From: Wisconsin
Just being ****, be careful how you use the term "non-working key." By example, does the key still manually lock/unlock the doors, and start the car in the ignition? In that case, I'd say a "non-working remote."
I had a similar experience to both of your issues. Firstly, I only had ONE manual key (key blade and "flashlight" head) when I purchased my car. As in no remote functionality at all. I just went to the dealer and they ordered a new key blade and remote head. Once the parts came in, I took the car to the dealer and they programmed the car to recognize the new key/remote combo. It was somewhere around $350-ish total for parts and labor.
Secondly, are you *sure* your car is locking/unlocking while driving? As in, do you *hear* the locks operating? My car does the same thing, but it's only the red light on the dash that comes on/off occasionally. No lock activation. If the light comes on and I press the unlock side of the panel switch, the locks click and I get the double-beep indicating a problem. My Durametric returned fault codes 47, 60, & 61, all of which dealt with microswitch issues.
I'm in DFW. The lock lite issue didn't occur until we got close to 100 deg temps a few weeks ago. This past week, temps dropped back into the 80's and the issue disappeared. On a side note, the Durametric explanation also said that the codes were just informational and "...it is not an indication that repair is needed."
Good luck with the dealer!
I had a similar experience to both of your issues. Firstly, I only had ONE manual key (key blade and "flashlight" head) when I purchased my car. As in no remote functionality at all. I just went to the dealer and they ordered a new key blade and remote head. Once the parts came in, I took the car to the dealer and they programmed the car to recognize the new key/remote combo. It was somewhere around $350-ish total for parts and labor.
Secondly, are you *sure* your car is locking/unlocking while driving? As in, do you *hear* the locks operating? My car does the same thing, but it's only the red light on the dash that comes on/off occasionally. No lock activation. If the light comes on and I press the unlock side of the panel switch, the locks click and I get the double-beep indicating a problem. My Durametric returned fault codes 47, 60, & 61, all of which dealt with microswitch issues.
I'm in DFW. The lock lite issue didn't occur until we got close to 100 deg temps a few weeks ago. This past week, temps dropped back into the 80's and the issue disappeared. On a side note, the Durametric explanation also said that the codes were just informational and "...it is not an indication that repair is needed."
Good luck with the dealer!
You are also correct, that it is just the light that comes on the dash switch, w/o actually locking/unlocking the doors.
08-18-2016 | 11:59 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 1,186
From: L.I. NY
Have you actually tried replacing the battery in each remote? I got two remotes with my car - 1 was "dead"...changed the battery - all good! Start with the simple stuff. The "Stealerships" love for you to think that there's some black art involved with fixing these cars - that's how they make $...
Good luck
Good luck
08-18-2016 | 12:07 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 5,415
Likes: 1,956
From: Zuffenhausen, Georgia
I agree with Macster, I think the service rep misspoke. From my experience, if you have two dead keyfobs and the car was left unarmed, then you're okay. However, if you have two dead keyfobs and the car was parked and armed for a period of time... the 996 will go into shut down mode (i.e. immobilized), then you have serious problems... It means you'll have to purchase new keyfobs and an immobilizer module. But your case is totally different. You were able to drive the car to the dealership using the old school method of unlocking the car with the laser cut key. They should be able to easily order you two new fobs pre-programmed for your car... and even transfer the laser cut portion to save you money.
08-18-2016 | 12:10 PM
#11
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 5,415
Likes: 1,956
From: Zuffenhausen, Georgia
Have you actually tried replacing the battery in each remote? I got two remotes with my car - 1 was "dead"...changed the battery - all good! Start with the simple stuff. The "Stealerships" love for you to think that there's some black art involved with fixing these cars - that's how they make $... Good luck
Good luckOP, if this is the case, 5CHN3LL can explain how to clean. I can't remember. ha!
08-26-2016 | 11:28 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 290
Likes: 17
From: Wisconsin
To finish this off, I did get a new key from a different dealer for about $280. The first dealer wanted $900!!! then lowered the price twice when I said no thanks. To fix the window, I ordered a microswitch, and lock assembly from Sonnen. Weird that the passenger side is more expensive than driver?
09-14-2016 | 10:13 AM
#14
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 87
Likes: 2
Rather than start a new thread, thought i would add to this one. I have gone through the key issues, one being stolen from the house during burglary(fortunately didn't find the car). Then Girl friend decided the take the car and go running in the middle of no where and lost new key. ordered another replacement and that has now seem to of lost sync with the car. I have change the key batt, and reversed polarity, it lights up, but no unlocking of the car.
Will i need to replace the key that has lost sync? reading this it seems i will. secondly i still have the access codes from Porsche to add the last key(DME etc). is this of any use for either re-syncing or for the new key i will order.
Will i need to replace the key that has lost sync? reading this it seems i will. secondly i still have the access codes from Porsche to add the last key(DME etc). is this of any use for either re-syncing or for the new key i will order.
09-14-2016 | 10:23 AM
#15
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 5,415
Likes: 1,956
From: Zuffenhausen, Georgia
Best advice - take the non-functioning key, access codes, and lots of money to your local Porsche service center and request they make it all work. Hopefully, you'll get out of there under a $1000. I presume you still can access the car via the ol'school key in the door method, right?