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Old 07-19-2016, 03:15 PM
  #16  
5CHN3LL
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
If you just cross connect those two heater hoses, that creates a very low resistance circuit that will completely reduce the other cooling circuits inside the engine.

I would think the proper way is just to close up each hose independently or just cut the hoses and put on some blocking plates.
Or crimp that bish to simulate a still-installed heater core.

I keed. I keed.
Old 07-19-2016, 08:28 PM
  #17  
dgmark
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There is no problem looping the hoses back ether at the engine or at the heater core. The circut cannot be blocked off it must remain in place or insuficant hot water will reach the thermostat and it will not open. no restriction is needed
Old 07-19-2016, 09:37 PM
  #18  
Slakker
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3/4" copper plugs. Installation method recommended by Charlie Lacy at Innovative in Carrolton, TX. Dude was brilliant. More on him in other thread later.




Old 07-20-2016, 01:09 AM
  #19  
Ahsai
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Originally Posted by dgmark
There is no problem looping the hoses back ether at the engine or at the heater core. The circut cannot be blocked off it must remain in place or insuficant hot water will reach the thermostat and it will not open. no restriction is needed
Slakker, have you checked with Charlie the way you capped off the lines will work fine?





I went back to check my coolant path tracing. You can see there are two coolant return paths before the thermostat opens (after going through the cylinders and heads). The red path is via the front console (the oil pump housing) and the other is the back path via the heater core. Now this gets interesting. What if we cap off the black path? I think there are two possibilities:

1) The red flow rate increases and the overall coolant flow through the pump remains the same - this is the good case.
2) The red flow rate increases but it's not enough so the overall coolant flow rate through the pump reduces (imagine if the black path has a MUCH larger cross-section area than the red path). This is not a good case.

I don't really know which way it will be so I defer to people with more knowledge and experience.
Old 07-20-2016, 01:43 AM
  #20  
Ahsai
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Originally Posted by Slakker
I just didn't know if it was OK to use it with 7 or 8 gallons. Didn't even think about the Durametric. Great idea.
Oh that will take a long time (1.7L per minute for 8gal = 18 minutes).
Old 07-20-2016, 06:29 AM
  #21  
Slakker
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
Slakker, have you checked with Charlie the way you capped off the lines will work fine?

Ahsai, the picture was from the engine of an SP996 build he is doing that I took while in his shop. He explained the coolant flow like you have in your diagram but I didn't understand it at the time. Now seeing your picture it makes a lot more sense.

Last edited by Slakker; 07-20-2016 at 06:51 AM.



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