Weird Problem
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Weird Problem
So I had my engine/tiptronic out of the car for work. I re-assembled everything and it is back in the car. Because of work/travel I have had to work on it, then leave it for a while, the back on it, etc. I'm trying to justify to idiot move I made. I forgot to connect the fuel lines.
So when I went to start it, it actually ran...horribly for a few seconds as it probably used the fuel still in the lines then died. I saw the gas all over the floor and realized what happened. So I got everything all connected up and have tried several times to start and it won't fire, it just turns over. I pressed the fuel pressure nipple and fuel came out so I know there is fuel in the lines. I took a spark plug out and it appears to have no spark so I am thinking that it is now become an electrical problem, which makes no sense unless there is some kind of "trip" that occurs if a break in the fuel line is detected (so that is question #1).
I am also thinking that maybe my testing of the plug was a "test failure". The boot is extensive and tight for the plug, but it doesn't feel like the contact in the boot is all that tight. I'm wondering if the screws that hold it in place actually also force the contact and having it out of the block makes contact sketchy (that is question #2).
Question #3: If it is electrical, what's the best place to start troubleshooting.
Question #4: If it is fuel, then I am assuming that I start with fuel pressure...what else are good things to check.
So when I went to start it, it actually ran...horribly for a few seconds as it probably used the fuel still in the lines then died. I saw the gas all over the floor and realized what happened. So I got everything all connected up and have tried several times to start and it won't fire, it just turns over. I pressed the fuel pressure nipple and fuel came out so I know there is fuel in the lines. I took a spark plug out and it appears to have no spark so I am thinking that it is now become an electrical problem, which makes no sense unless there is some kind of "trip" that occurs if a break in the fuel line is detected (so that is question #1).
I am also thinking that maybe my testing of the plug was a "test failure". The boot is extensive and tight for the plug, but it doesn't feel like the contact in the boot is all that tight. I'm wondering if the screws that hold it in place actually also force the contact and having it out of the block makes contact sketchy (that is question #2).
Question #3: If it is electrical, what's the best place to start troubleshooting.
Question #4: If it is fuel, then I am assuming that I start with fuel pressure...what else are good things to check.
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So, I actually took the boot off of the spark plug connector so that I could make sure the plug was making good contact. I could not see a spark when the car was cranked.
I am also getting a high pitch whine that is coming from the carburetor area. It kind of sounds like the high pitch noise you get during a hearing test. This occurs when the key is turned on but the car is not started and does not go away.
I'm feeling like this high pitch whine is related like something's not right so the electrical is not enabled. Anyone?
I am also getting a high pitch whine that is coming from the carburetor area. It kind of sounds like the high pitch noise you get during a hearing test. This occurs when the key is turned on but the car is not started and does not go away.
I'm feeling like this high pitch whine is related like something's not right so the electrical is not enabled. Anyone?
#3
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Year and model? Weekends are a little slow around here but somebody will eventually reply.
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Here's the video with the whine.
Edit: I'm not able to embed the video, but here is the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO4G...ature=youtu.be
#6
The throttle body whine is normal. Do an e-gas recalibration first. Key ON engine OFF for 1 mn with your foot off the gas pedal. Then turn key to OFF and wait 10s then remove key and you're done.
A1: no, nothng will trip based on fuel pressure
A2: I'm not sure but you should provide groung to the bolt holes of the removed coil. They may be ground points needed for the coil.
A3: Check if the tach needle bounces for 1/4" when you crank.
A4: Use a stethoscope to check if injector #1 clcks when you (someone else) crank the engine. But spark should give same results.
A1: no, nothng will trip based on fuel pressure
A2: I'm not sure but you should provide groung to the bolt holes of the removed coil. They may be ground points needed for the coil.
A3: Check if the tach needle bounces for 1/4" when you crank.
A4: Use a stethoscope to check if injector #1 clcks when you (someone else) crank the engine. But spark should give same results.
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The throttle body whine is normal. Do an e-gas recalibration first. Key ON engine OFF for 1 mn with your foot off the gas pedal. Then turn key to OFF and wait 10s then remove key and you're done.
A1: no, nothng will trip based on fuel pressure
A2: I'm not sure but you should provide groung to the bolt holes of the removed coil. They may be ground points needed for the coil.
A3: Check if the tach needle bounces for 1/4" when you crank.
A4: Use a stethoscope to check if injector #1 clcks when you (someone else) crank the engine. But spark should give same results.
A1: no, nothng will trip based on fuel pressure
A2: I'm not sure but you should provide groung to the bolt holes of the removed coil. They may be ground points needed for the coil.
A3: Check if the tach needle bounces for 1/4" when you crank.
A4: Use a stethoscope to check if injector #1 clcks when you (someone else) crank the engine. But spark should give same results.
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Fuses are all good. Those connectors have been bugging me. I think I have them connected right. Can they be incorrectly hooked up, or is there a sure fire way to make sure they are in the right position? I did notice some small shape changes around the fitting, but I'm not sure if they make any difference when you make the connection.
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#12
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Fuses are all good. Those connectors have been bugging me. I think I have them connected right. Can they be incorrectly hooked up, or is there a sure fire way to make sure they are in the right position? I did notice some small shape changes around the fitting, but I'm not sure if they make any difference when you make the connection.
It doesn't have to be the connector, though Ahsai's advice to check the conncector is very good advice.
The crankshaft position may be bad or improperly installed. If it is not installed correctly the Hall effect may not be sufficient enough to generate a strong enough signal and the result is the DME won't know the position of the crank and thus the pistons. It won't know when to trigger the fuel injectors or the spark plugs.
The engine will crank just fine but not fire.
That the engine ran a short while suggests either the crankshaft sensor died or was loose and moved out of position.
#13
Please don't be offended by this question but-did you verify the cam timing after the new IMS bearing install ?
When you turn the key to on does the fuel pump run for approximately 3 seconds ?
It is not to hard to pinch a wire -wouldn't hurt to verify that didn't happen especially the crankshaft position sensor .Also that all wiring harness grounds are good connections .
The fact that it ran once points toward a bad connection .
When you turn the key to on does the fuel pump run for approximately 3 seconds ?
It is not to hard to pinch a wire -wouldn't hurt to verify that didn't happen especially the crankshaft position sensor .Also that all wiring harness grounds are good connections .
The fact that it ran once points toward a bad connection .
#14
Didn't answer your question on the connectors -the foolproof way is to trace a wire they are the same color code both sides of the connector .One great thing about Porsche wiring is that each circuit has it's own unique color code wire .
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It doesn't have to be the connector, though Ahsai's advice to check the conncector is very good advice.
The crankshaft position may be bad or improperly installed. If it is not installed correctly the Hall effect may not be sufficient enough to generate a strong enough signal and the result is the DME won't know the position of the crank and thus the pistons. It won't know when to trigger the fuel injectors or the spark plugs.
The engine will crank just fine but not fire.
That the engine ran a short while suggests either the crankshaft sensor died or was loose and moved out of position.
The crankshaft position may be bad or improperly installed. If it is not installed correctly the Hall effect may not be sufficient enough to generate a strong enough signal and the result is the DME won't know the position of the crank and thus the pistons. It won't know when to trigger the fuel injectors or the spark plugs.
The engine will crank just fine but not fire.
That the engine ran a short while suggests either the crankshaft sensor died or was loose and moved out of position.