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Did the same a few months ago with Adjustable parts and Powerflex. You'll notice a pretty big difference. Any reason you're not going adjustable arms for your rears? I thought you might need to in order to get proper alignment with ROW30?
Did the same a few months ago with Adjustable parts and Powerflex. You'll notice a pretty big difference. Any reason you're not going adjustable arms for your rears? I thought you might need to in order to get proper alignment with ROW30?
Didn't know I needed adjustable arms in the rear with the ROW M030, can anyone confirm?
Didn't know I needed adjustable arms in the rear with the ROW M030, can anyone confirm?
Rear only:
I don't think you'll need to but it might be nice to have a little more adjustment there should the 1/2" drop need a little more/less caster and camber.
If you're replacing those arms anyway, the adjustable versions can be found for not much more and make alignments much easier.
Rear only:
I don't think you'll need to but it might be nice to have a little more adjustment there should the 1/2" drop need a little more/less caster and camber.
If you're replacing those arms anyway, the adjustable versions can be found for not much more and make alignments much easier.
If you have the option as mentioned above it does make your life easier. When I get mine aligned it's always on the cusp of being out of spec because of the lack of adjustability. So if you have the chance to change it out now it could help later.
I'm thinking of doing something like this too as when I installed the ROW M030 kit I didn't change anything outside of what's included in the kit. Taking care of all those old components would probably work wonders in the handling department.
I went from stock comfort touring suspension to ROW to GT3 swaybars, GT3 coilovers, GT3 front Control arms, RSS dog bones, PMNA rear adjustable toe links, upper front CF strut brace. Thinking of either Powerflex or Elephant Racing poly bushings for the rest in the near future.
Each upgrade stage was a major step up for me since I started with a worn out touring suspension to begin with.
One thing to note is that upgrading the suspension will really reveal the weakness of your tires and/or engine mounts.
I highly recommend updating your engine mounts if you haven't yet before doing a full suspension upgrade. If you upgrade more components than just the shocks/springs, you're main bottleneck now is your tires and is highly recommended to go with really good tires so that you can take full advantage of your suspension. I used to think my Evo tires was up to the task but now with the new suspension, I feel I can improve on my tires myself.
Also if you plan on dropping the car anywhere close to 2" or more, the rear toe links helps you get your toe back in spec and prolongs your tires so they are def worth the investment. Some of the aftermarket ones also comes with the bump steer feature as well.
Anyone have an image showing all the bolts for a suspension overhaul and their torque specs? I've been digging around for awhile but haven't been able to find one.
Also this might be a silly question, but do I need to support the wheel from falling when taking off all these suspension parts?
A search for "996 Group 4 Running Gear" may yield useful information. I'm expecting that you'll take the wheel off before removing the suspension so, no, it shouldn't "fall". If your concern is for the hub, then follow the workshop manual carefully and it will tell you when you need to support parts. Iirc there is no need to compress the springs to remove the struts but you'll need a spring compressor if you wish to separate out the spring and damper (e.g. to re-use the bump-stop washer).
Hey guys, I read in the tech manual that the wishbones should be tightened when the car is on its wheels, and saw somewhere else that recommended all the rubber parts be tightened when the suspension is loaded. Should I try to jack up each wheel carrier before torquing all the bolts?
Also, here are all the torque values I found laid out visually in case that helps anyone (I know it’s easier for me). As you can see I found some conflicting numbers for the tie rods... I'm pretty sure the lock nut is 37 ft-lbs, steering end is 59 ft-lbs, and the nut in the middle is 56 ft-lbs.
Sourced all the parts from Pelican Parts, most are TRW or Meyle aftermarket which is why it was only $1600 vs $4200 for Porsche OEM parts. I also just ordered all new nuts and bolts for around $270 since they are supposed to be replaced. Local mechanic quotes me $1300 to have everything installed but looks like this should be a fairly easy DIY (famous last words)... I'm expecting the tie rods to be the hardest due to access issues.
Here are the nuts and bolts I ordered (page references from "911 (996), 1998 - 2005.pdf"):
Correction: You need 4 of the eccentric bolts for the rear (996-331-217), although Pelican Parts or Suncoast don't seem to have them in stock so I'm reusing those.
02-15-2016, 12:44 PM
