This procedure is what I did for tie rod check and replacement:

1. Raise the front wheels and hold the tire at 3 and 9….rock it and feel the play (if any). If there is play you know your tie rods may need replacement. Hold the tire at 12 and 6…rock it and feel play. If any play your ball joints may need replacement…(search you tube, you will find many videos)…in my case there was only play at 3 and 9…..I made a “mental note” to see how much “less play” I had once I replaced the tie rod ends…

2. Clean as much as you can the old tie rod ends, as well as the threads with the “securing nut”. Once cleaned, mark them up with a permanent marker for reference. I took a close up picture BEFORE I started to loosen ANYTHING, such that I could have a good idea of how many threads and turns my tie rods needed to have when installing the new ones.

3. Loosen the securing nut at the back end. Hold the Inner tie rod such that it DOES NOT move when the securing nut is broken loose. (I had to tap the adjustable wrench with a rubber mallet, while holding the adjustable wrench holding the inner tie rod). I wanted to make sure the INNER TIE ROD DID NOT MOVE while loosening the securing nut.

4. Since I marked the securing nut, I loosened it one full revolution for reference (I made a note for it). It was easy to follow with the red line.

5. Loosen the old tie rod nut….you may need (I needed it) a T30 bit to hold the ball joint shaft from rotating. TIP: not just loosen the nut, take it all the way out, and then place it back several turns. Do not ask me why, save yourself extra effort…this is a lesson learned for me

6. Install the tie rod “puller” as in the picture. Try to keep it at 90 degrees from the tie rod arm

7. Tighten the puller screw until the tie rod “pops” out of the steering knuckle

8. Take it out of the knuckle and COUNT HOW MANY TURNS it takes to come out…(26 in my case)....this is a good time to check your inner tie rod....move the shaft around and feel for "grittiness"....pull it back and forth and check for play...check the boot for cracks etc...this is a good time to replace it if something is wrong with it

9. Install new tie rod and COUNT EXACTLY the same amount of turns it took for the older to come out (26)

10. TIGTHEN by hand the securing nut (it may not come back the FULL TURN)

11. Insert the new tie rod in the steering knuckle and tighten to 55 foot pounds (according to manual)

12. Tighten the securing nut the same way you loosened it (I used 2 adjustable wrenches as pictured). While holding the wrench attached to the inner tie rod (make sure it does not move). Tap the securing nut with a rubber mallet to tighten it (again, the mark may not come back to the same place as in the beginning).

13. Count the threads…they should be VERY CLOSE to when you started (at least they were for me, in the pictures). Verify the line/mark on the Inner tire rod did not move.

14. Install tire and hold the wheel at 3 and 9…compare with “what it felt like” in step 1….In my case, using step 1 as 100%, it was reduced to 10%

 

Great post. Did you just have jackstands under the front two lift points?

 

Need inner tie rods?
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wow. thats a crazy price on the inner tie rods...

 

Yes, but I only did one tire at a time....I did not raise the front end all at once....taking my time...total of 1.5 hours for both ends....

 

^No Mas^...